AE92

Hey, Yeh I do but i highly doubt he'll part out the body with the kit and even if he did you'd be looking at a VERY large amount for the body alone As for Lipo's. They are cheap nowadays. Just make sure you look after them as I've heard of Lipo's exploding

R33's are indeed rare. Getting your hands on the road going version is virtually impossible but I was lucky enough to score a couple of brand new R33 GTR N1 kits (now sold). The wide body race spec R33's aren't my thing. You can spot the Sard Supra too. Hard to get stuff. For R32's, HPI make them for around 50 bucks. They lack the detail of Tamiya but will be fine if your looking at using it as basher.

you seem keen on pics (OO)SKYLINE(OO) so here some of the bodies i've done over the years One of my favourite shots of all time Evos' mine, RX7 is a friends

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Lowering the car will reduce body roll. If your buying the TT01D series then it's already got most of the simple mods to get you going: -oil shocks -ball bearings -alloy driveshaft and some other stuff. The matte finish is slightly tricky. Instead of painting from the inside, some guys get the matte finish from painting the outside. To fill the guards you don't have to get wider wheels, just a higher offset number. The car will get dusty after some time; to clean it, buy yourself a cheap paint brush and brush it down after use. That or you can use an air compressor. Smooth track is preferred, for me anyway. I have no problem drifting on asphalt but it's abit slower due to the limited grip you get. And what bubba said, you don't have to go nuts on modding the TT01. It can get costly and won't be as rewarding as the newer/better chassis out there. Keep it simple and just have fun with it really. cheers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIs0R20J-sE...feature=related Twin turbo Lexus IS-F: Awesome much?

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Good start on picking the TT01. You will find that some Local Hobby Shops (LHS's) will flog a fair pricing for ready to run kits. eBay often has some with mods done to them. All three bodies you listed are indeed interchangeable. You will find that because the bodies are wider you will need higher offset to fill the guards. Remember with R/C's that a higher offset means more dish (feels the guards better like lower offset is to real cars). So +6 to +9mm offset is desirable on r/cs and 0mm is plain crap. Tamiya offers zero offset wheels with the S15 kit and its shocking, you want at least +3mm to fill the guards. Mods are easy to come by, LHS's generally have them. As a start, ball bearings and an alloy driveshaft will give slightly better speed and durability. You can get change shocks too; TRF suspension is the equivalent of Tein coilovers and Tamiya oil dampers are like KYB/Nismo sport shocks. Hope it helps

wow forgot about this niran They do make nitro powered drift cars but the Electric ones are far more common. Much easier to maintain and alot less hassles. I've read of destroyed clutches and engines from nitro cars and fixing them can get quite costly. bubba I agree what you said about brushless systems. Crazy power and the more recent ones (Mamba/Novak ect) now lets you fiddle around with the power band and delivery. I run the older gen. Novak brushless and can'tfault it one bit. djay33 Where are you located? i can send you website/forums of most rc drift cities based in Aus. In terms of getting parts, hit up this website. His based in Japan but has an Australian account for easy payment methods http://www.genkidoridori.com Jimmy time for a DE-T conversion for you (OohH) jokes And for anyone looking at getting into r/c drifting: steer clear of eBay immitation crap. Stick with brand named ones like Tamiya/Yokomo/HPI. The immitation ones will die in the ass and then it's game over looking for replacement parts. Chassis's like the Tamiya TT01 is a good start, they offer bang for buck and parts are readily available

Excess My brother got the R35 body. The WRX body i had sent over from Japan with a bunch of other gear. Tamiya bodies generally will cost more because you get better detailing and light buckets with the newer bodies. HPI is cheaper because it's manufactured here but the detailing is crap house. bubba I'm running on US grade ABS which has slightly more grip the PE/Poly pipe. As for power: the older generation Novak brushless systems - the SS5800. Heaps of power and response that's for sure!

Suspension travel is pretty good. Rear has stock suspension set up but with thicker oil. Drifts' well I won't race you, but i'll battle you at drifting

hey, The C/F style bonnet is indeed a mesh overlay. It's a mix of paints to get the effect. Silvia S15 is in abundance and you can get R32 GTR bodies. Tamiya bodies have the best details, HPI if your on a budget

Progressing stages And then final Tamiya TA05 with R35 body - i don't touch Kmart/eBay stuff. Offset is a bit extreme i will admit but i can't afford lesser offset wheels so it will just have to do. This is my spare drifter, the main drifter is out of action for now. This is the main one: Rarely post, as i don't have a Skyline/Nissan so just alot of reading and browsing. Mods please move to the right section, couldn't find Off-topic. Thanks for looking

Hi guys, May pop in for a look with a friend. Corolla driver so nothing fancy, wont be dynoing as there may be a high chance i'll take the trophy for lowest output haha Happy to donate as well