ned

Hi there, can anyone recommend a single DIn HU with a switcheable NTSC/PAL tuner output to run into an existing screen? Cheers Ned

Hi all, I think I may have a buggered clutch but I am wary of being a hypochondriac about it! Last week I did a 7k launches on GTr with 80k km's, std turbo's, Power Fc, and poncams . This combo made 550Nm and 250rwkw when tuned. After the launch I returned to the office with a stinky clutch, it was still stinky 5 hours later after a 45min drive home in traffic, yet didnt feel any different to drive. On the weekend I took it out and found that on a hill in 3rd with foot down I saw the front torque swing up to 20 on the gauge. Oops buggered clutch I thought . But by monday after leaving the car for 2 days, I couldnt repeat it, and last night the worst I could do up a hill in high gears was get the torque split to read 2.9. So have I really stuffed my clutch or did I perhaps have some oil on the friction material that has now burnt off? What do others see on the MFD torque monitor when driving vigorously (vs clutch dumps)? Cheers & thanks Ned

Hi all, just to add some more credence to the comment above about MPH , there was a good article on Autospeed several years back, which did mathematical regression using published data for a range of cars to indicate that power to weight was a good indicator of performance (rather than power to torque) and that speed at the end of the quarter was better than ET. (performance indicators) "So it can be seen that torque/weight is a very bad performance indicator, and power/weight is actually very good. Given the R2 values, it can furthermore be seen that the best single indicator of performance in a pub brag is the speed at the end of the quarter. Other figures, particularly the 0-100 time, are very dependent on launch technique and gearing (for example, the Falcon XR6 does not have a great 0-100 time due to the necessity to have a shift from 2nd to 3rd gears prior to completion of the run). The finishing speeds at the end of the quarter, however, are remarkably tolerant of things like bad shifts and bad launches. The quarter time, although a little more forgiving than the 0-100 time, is still not as "idiot proof" as the speed at the end of the quarter." Of course dynos do show the area under the curve which will give a good idea of the street driveability of any car. Cheers Ned

Hi B-Man I have just been doing similar research on cams also, and have found that while all the specs seem similar on the poncams and low end procams (eg 9.15 lift, similar durations), the procams are apparently a more aggressive "ramp" affecting the speed of valve opening. This means that the procams need the uprated springs where the poncams dont, and presumably affects the power/torque delivery. The Tomei website has some good info in Engrish describing the cams. Cheers Ned

Hi all, thanks for the feedback. Has anyone tried or seen these venom injectors though? Cheers Ned

Hi all, i am looking at upgrading the injectors on a GTR at the same time as Poncams, but looking at the range of brands and prices its confusing. On any given day and depending on the seller there will be a large difference in price - is there really much difference in their function? I know many people will have the "I only buy brand A, B, C" type answer, but beyond that is there anything to be wary of? Specifically Greenline has Sard on sale, will their 534cc be any worse than a Nismo or other brand (yes I understand that the sizes are a little different)? Has anyone seen or heard of the Venom ( Venom website ) injectors? There are sets on ebay that seem reasonable (ebay). Thanks for the help Ned

Thanks for the replies, I guess the question now, is what effect this cam would have compared to the type A or B with a standard Turbo. Has anyone seen dyno charts? Its also not clear whether this really is new? (the Tomei site says its from the 2003 catalog), or its actually old (it doesnt appear on any of the usual parts supplier sites eg Nengun, Greenline etc). Thanks Ned

Hi there, theres one on ebay at the moment; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 Cheers

Hi all, as the topic states. I found on the Tomei site a refernce to a Type R poncam with specs of 250 (in and out) at 9.15 lift. The graph shown suggested that Torque increase at low revs (under 3000) was nearly [2-3 times] (correction due to poor res of the brochure i was looking at) 20% as great as standard which is something I would appreciate with stock turbos. http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/rb26/rb26.html Has anyone seen these or are they new / or superceded ? Cheers Ned

Hi there, The poncam combination is something I am interested in for a daily driven GTR with standard turbos, PFC, and boost kit. I am after response rather than all out top end, but am getting conflicting advice on whether with that combo I would need to upspec the injectors. Do I need 555cc or larger injectors for the poncam 260 intake, 256 exhaust 9.15mm lift combo? Cheers Ned

Hi all, To save everyone trawling through this thread (all 30+ pages so far), would it be possible to start a new "troubleshooting the jaycar kits" thread (possibly in the FAQ area)? I have a problem with mine and have now gained valuable tips from reading this but geez it took a while. Cheers Ned

Hi FM, Just visited Jaycar, saw the kit there and decided that it was worth the extra money spent to actually have one now so have bought it. Please remove me from the group buy for the DFA. Cheers Ned

Hi all, I am just changing my tyres for a roadworthy, but wanted to see if anyone is interested in them for drift or track days. They are; Falken FK-451 245 / 40 R18 Not much meat left on them (worn badly on the inside edges) Any interest at $25 a tyre? Pick up in Sydney only. Cheers Ned

Am I the only one who smells a scam here? Its suspicious that a nice guy joins, opens up an FTP site for everyone to load their files, then soon after it shuts down & I notice that the ftp owner doesnt seem to have posted again since then. Will we start seeing CDs offered on Ebay with those files on them? Rb25calais if you are still around, how about letting us know where the files are? Ned

Hi Funky, I am also interested in this buy, add me to the list for PM please for a ; Digital Fuel Adjuster $58 + GST & Hand Controller for Digital Adjusters $44 + GST & RS232 (Parallel Port) Connecting Cable Computer Lead for Controller - 1.8m $6 + GST Cheers Ned

Just to complete the thread for anyone else in the same situation. It turned out to be the exhaust housing had loosened and now sat a little higher so that on hard changes, the tailshaft shifted down and touched it. An adjustment of the exhaust was all that was needed. Ned

Hi SK, Thanks for the prompt reply. I logic you explained is exactely how I understood it to be, but not having played with an EBC or PFC I was unsure whether you program them on the basis of boost (via feedback from a sensor), or on duty cycle and then measure boost afterwards. If I understand you, a conventional EBC doesnt let you control valve opening rather you control boost level which the software converts to solenoid opening duration? Thanks Ned PS - I already have the valves form the Autospeed II setup, and currently have that plumbed into my standard setup, so could transfer that to the new one if that is the only way to control wastegate creep.

Hi all, After reading the project book on the Jaycar boost controller, and having built the autospeed manual boost controller before, I like the way they put a valve in line with the wastegate to prevent it from seeing any boost until you determine. This lets you control not only the peak boost but also the rate of boost increase, so that the turbo can come on as hard as you want. This contrasts with standard where the valve is in parrallel with the wategate which is still seeing boost and hence starting to bleed (which slows the rate of boost increase) despite the fact you may be tricking it into seeing less that the actual boost. If I understand correctly though, most other EBC's ( I am thinking of getting the boost control kit for the PFC) replace the factory solenoid with another, which acts to lower the boost seen by the wastegate, but not eliminate wastegate creep? So............can I then change the plumbing of the EBC solenoid so that it is now in line with the wastegate, and change the programing, so that it doesnt open until I want to slow the rate of boost. I imagine that this means that programming it will be a little different, but it should result in a faster boosting setup ? :wassup: Has anyone tried this, or is the logic a little off? Cheers Ned

Hi Wrxhoon, I will take one also Thanks Ned

Hi Boost I have looked at these also, but they seem to be way over the top for what they are. MOst prices seem to be around $600 and as has been said, it is really only a solenoid valve, and sensor, no fancy screen or controller. Ned I also havent found any 2nd hand

For sound clips check out Fujitsubo as theirs are quiet AND they have clips you can download on their site

Hi B5URK, There is an alternative to getting a new head unit, which is the FM modulators that change the frequencies. Jaycar, Strathfield and any number of car audio places will sell you one that usually changes the range by some number (best to get the one that changes it by 20Mhz as then it makes sense ie. 101.9 becomes 81.9) and then everything else works OK. These converters use std australian aerial plugs though, so check what kind you have before you start. Good luck Ned

Hi Oz, I Pmed you last week - are you still needing help? send me a PM if so. Ned

I had the same problem, to the point where I was embarrassed to brake in traffic. I changed them to Winmax pads from Belperformance, and gained better braking with no noise. Very happy!! Ned

Hi Benm, yes I only get it when the clutch is in, but not on upshifts, or when at the lights or idling - only on downshifting. I dont know if the clutch is telling me that its about to give? Regards Ned