ned

Hi all, Last night on my way home, I heard a strange noise when downshifting, I figured it was something in the boot, until I drove it without that item. I searched the threads and dont think its the thrust bearing, but more experienced heads can tell me if I am wrong. What I get is a strange noise like metal spinning but lightly touching something but only when I downshift. On upshifts or in neutral there is no noise. All shifts still feel the same as before. Is it a clutch? Is it a bearing? Is it something else? Taa Ned

I got mine from option1 garage in Brisbane, and they seemed to have nice selection. http://www.option1garage.com.au/

HI , just to follow up - I did get the Winmax pads and are happy with them so far! NOw after a week of use, I feel I can report on them. The initial bite in the 1st few mm of travel is very good, as it means that in slow traffic, you only just brush the brakes. AT higher speed on a twisty road, they are equally as good, washing off speed with light touches, so they inspire confidence as you enter the next corner. At moderate speed (60km/h) they can feel a little wooden, but not much. Overall I am pretty happy, as the best thing is that they make NO NOISE. 1st brake application in the morning, i get a little squeak from them , then its quiet - nice !! I cant really comment on the dust as i still have tons of it over the rims from the last pads. Ned

cool - thanks for the reply Mist

Hi all, I went looking for the NGK BCPR7E plugs, and found all sorts of problems (NGK didnt have those in 0.8's or not in V groove). To cut a long story short - I just got some at Autobarn in the 1.1mm gap that I will gap down - it appears that sometimes they are sold as; * BCPR7ES (S = standard flat electrode), * BCPR7E (no letter after E= v groove) and * BCPR7EY (Y = v groove also). :confused: :confused: :confused: I have been told now from several places (who have called NGK) that the heat range 7 and the 0.8mm gap in that plug dimension are NLA. Guess we will all be gapping down plugs now unless you can find someone with existing stocks. Ned

Hi, looking around for pads I have heard lots of opinions on pads, but since my current ones squeal at low speed, and generate lots of dust, I dont want the Ultimates, the RB74's sound OK (but have also heard problems with poor wear rate and material adhesion after the 1st 50% of wear). The Endless and PAgids are $$$$ so I had been scouting the netsellers and found "Winmax sport" at BElperformance (http://www.belperformance.com.au/specials.php) for $190. Bel claim they are comparable to Endless NA-S with 0 - 650C temp rating, and that they have fitted several pairs to Skylines. Has anyone used these? Google search finds lots of japanese skylines with them (the sites in Japanese) but I cant tell what they use. Thoughts? Ned

Hi Jezzrrr, I found the follwoing for you; Pounds-force(lbf; lb) to Newtons(N) multiply by 4.448 Newtons to Pounds-force(lbf; lb) muliply by 0.225 Theres probably a nifty little excel program if you search hard enough (i Think my Palmpilot has one) - try Google. regards Ned

OK thanks Steve

HI, HAs anyone tried these STR cam gears, they are US made, and alloy like the HKS, but seem reasonably priced ($200 ea at UAS). Anyone have opinions ? ".........570 pro gears taking the cam gear to a new level...these new cam gears adhere to strict RMA standards, meaning they are designed with a special tool so each tooth is precisely matched to the oem timing belt. each gear made from billet utilizes aircraft grade black oxide 1/4" 12 pt bolt s and washers to ensure NO SLIPPAGE under any circumstance. The gear is then anodized with str's exclusive bronze flavor and then finished off bearing the mark of the str trademark . nothing even comes close to the technology we have invested in these remarkable cam gears:..... http://www.strspeedlab.com/strcamgearintro.htm Edit: Looks like they are easy to set up too http://www.strspeedlab.com/adjustingyourcamgears.htm Cheers Ned

This is a great idea, I had dreamed of something like this, but more from the idea of installing simple mods (like boost controllers, bleed valves, cam gears, pod filters etc) that the forums are always full of questions about. Bring it on, there are probably a few of those travelling parts vans that would be happy to stock up on Nissan specific parts, and then show up with a cc machine, and sell from the carpark.

Hi I added 6 x 9 speakers to my R33 by making up an MDF spacer that went under the standard parcel tray, then traced that onto the underside of the tray, enlarged the ho;es for the stock speakers, and found that with a little careful positioning the standard grilles covered the new speakers. Voila - stealthy 6 x 9's

Thanks Jezza, I was thinking about exhausts, front pipes, dumps, they are often marked as fitting a specific model, but would an R32 catback fit an R34 for example? Ned

Hi OzGTR, just wanted to check whether this is still on, as i had a few friends who heard about the last one after i showed them pictures, and are mad keen. Send PM if you want. Cheers Ned

Hi all, just a side issue for the R34 boys. Do any of you have a list of the interchangeable items engine wise between R32 / 33 / 34 ?? Regards Ned

HI all, I know that this picture (from the SDU days) really helped when I was trying to put my controller on. Enjoy Ned

What a bummer that rude critters did a no-show - this just dampened my memory of the day. I have sent them a thanks and a sympathy - I suggested that noone would object if ( a big IF) for the next one they collected up front - I had mates asking me right up to the friday if there was still places free.

I will try to bodgie up something like discussed using photoshop but then I will need the designer to put his reality to it in case its too hard to make at a reasonable price.

Hi all, I have been speaking to a local manufacturer about swapping the stock bad boy spoiler for a more subtle looking bootlip style (like the r33 one from JMS but without the need for the boot extensions on the side :confused: ) THe R34 spoiler leaves 3 holes each sied in the boot so the solution seesm to be in a H pattern spoiler with a small extension that "flows" from the spoileredge to conceal the holes. This is preferable to bogging and respraying as you can replace it when you sell if you want. The spoiler would be held on by dble sided tape across the rear, and bolts through the original boot opening. To preanswer your questions; 1. There are no pictures yet cos it aint been built but the look will be tough but subtle. 2. Pricing will depend on qty but an indication was $600 - 750 designed and painted for Sydney people with extra for couriers etc to other destinations (we can find that out if it goes ahead but Im not wasting time now on that detail). 3. Time frame would be months to get a few designs, then a few built so its not something to whack on this weekend. If you are interested please post back regards Tony

Hi BH DAve, I had heard that the JASMA exhausts were good but as akeenan points out there are a variety of them which all can have the acreditation mark so long as they meet the reg's (not all related to noise levels I understand). I'm still interested in the lareg pipe to stock exhaust, if anyone has experience? Ned

HI Silver 33, My reason for keeping the stock exhaust wasnt cost related, but I probably will get a 2nd hand exhaust this time, however since you never know how it will sound until you stump up the cash and get it fitted, its still a lucky dip. I dont mind a snarl at higher revs, so long as its inaudible at commuting, and highway cruising speeds. Ned

Hi all, i am onto my 2nd Skyline, and I have to say that I am really enjoying the lower in-cabin noise with the stock exhaust compared to the last car. The last R33 had a Hitech catback which was good, but I now realise it also raised the background noise a fair bit. With the new car, I have replaced the turbo pipe, and it has a 3" Cat. Since it seems important to give the exhaust gases as little resistance as possible until they have cooled, I was wondering what effect it would have if I changed the pipework from the catback to 3" in mild steel, then let the pipe taper to fit the stock GTR rear exhaust? I am hoping that the larger pipe volume reduces the resistence, and lets the exhaust gases cool before entering the stock rear box where it now is less of a bottleneck on the system. Any one with experience in exhausts have an opinion? Thanks Ned

I am confused why you say that the emanage was twice the price, I was interested because it was cheaper or the same for what offers more control (AFR AND ignition timing vs AFR only) Hikariperformance: New Trust Emanage with ignition and injection harnless AUD$680.00 (Hikari) APEXI S-AFC AIR FLOW CONTROLLER AUD$600.00 (Belperformance) Super ITC Super Ignition Timing Converter AUD$500 Ned

Many people on here (including me) have been asking about exhausts and particularly what they sound like (how loud etc). So far Fujitsubo is the only manufacturer I have found that goes to the trouble of putting up sound files of their exhausts. What a @#$ken great idea , since that is one of the differences between manufacturers. http://www.fujitsubo.co.jp/mc-prod/ Does anyone know of other sites? I think that magnaflow also do, but they use all US cars so its hard to compare. Ned

Hi Sydneykid, thanks for the detail. I guess I had the idea that there was a bit of a sweet spot that could be dialled in (the +2, -4 degrees I hear regularly), with maybe another hour of fine tuning. BUt obviously its more involved than that. Since you mentioned that the AFR's will help here as well, I guess that means that it would be best to wait until you also get an Emanage / SAFC / PFC to really optimise it? I was trying to chart my own route to better low/mid range by doing front pipes / cam gears, and leaving the exhaust and ecu stealth style. Ned

I was looking at this as a way to gain earlier boosting, and more low/mid range, but was put off when I was quoted "5 hours tuning to get it right!!!" all up the workshop wanted $1100 fitted and supplied. I left it for a later date Ned