96RS4V

cool, what're you looking at for costs? think i'm approaching replacement time too, pedal is getting awfully spongy

dunno if you're having the same issue i was, sounds similar-ish though. my car would cut out seemingly at random - generally low speeds, turning corners, occasionally on idle and so forth and so on. i tried cleaning my AFM with contact cleaner which helped the first time then it went back to crapola again. long story short though, AFM and O2 sensors were the culprits, ended up repairing the AFM because nissan quoted me $1100 to replace (havent had and issue with it at all in about 5k kms now) and replacing the O2 sensor was cheap might be worth borrowing/getting yourself a consult cable and plugging it in to help take some of the guess work out of it though.

first one was me saw you as we were going along shepperton road, took a little while to catch you through the traffic

whats postage for the intercooler worth to cannington 6107 if you still have it?

hi all, i'm more of a lurker than a poster but thought i'd just post a quick thanks to everyone for the valuable info i've gleaned from these pages in the last couple of months. it has literally saved me thousands of dollars in incompetent mech's fees. from info on disassembling and repairing AFM's, to diagnosing faults, changing plugs, O2 sensors (what a mongrel of a job), installing turbo timers, etc etc. thanks again. Dave.

hmm i think that at the end of the day the "ebay specials" aren't any cheaper anyway if you need usb support. the serial-usb adapter i bought (belkin) was about $50, then the e-bay special consult port was $60ish anyway, so it cost me more that the native USB alternative from ecutalk. then theres software on top of that and the hassle of finding it for free if you're so inclined. AND you're keeping your cash in australia. convinced yet?

well for anyone interested, the problem is seemingly fixed once again. (130k's with not a problem) pulled apart the maf sensor and resoldered every joint i could reach, resealed with high temp silicone. now just need to replace the O2 sensor to fix up the idle mixture ratio issue and run a batch of injector cleaner through and hopefully (fingers crossed) i should be sweet have picked up a few other things while spending time as a grease-monkey look-a-like and i'll post photos later when i can find them - but the nipple where in other posts i've seen boost guages hooked up to, is this normally just blocked off? i've also got a few non-factory looking wiring changes - not sure if these are just changes due to the dodgy immobiliser install, or something else. going to take it in to c-red tuning when i can and have them give it a once over so i can see how much money i have to spend before i get to doing the fun things like intake, exhaust, suspension and brake upgrades

will read up on and check that later today - not entirely sure how i'd go about checking it though (hence the reading)? weird though, did an ecu-reset and cleaned the AFM sensor on the weekend, was fine for a few days but the stalling is starting to creep back into things as of today. normally the stall would have been about every few km, but managed 90 odd out of it before it died. will do the same again and see how i go - its booked for an AT service and new plugs this week as well. can't wait for it to be reliable again - hurts seeing the first car i ever loved stalling all the time. just as an aside though, those AWN warranties don't seem to be worth the paper they're written on.. nothing is replaced until it completely fails and then only with a "servicable" part.

cheers mate, will try get it done next week sometime - going to be riding for a little bit i think " not sure if it will fix your problem but reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery, pressing the brake pedal a couple of times and leaving the car for half hour or so. then come back and connect it up again and let the ecu start fresh " cheers mike, will try both the ecu and AT comp in the drivers side kick panel as well when i get home tonight. Dave.

had this done the other day, no difference - stalled about 200m up the road from the service place. initially i thought it was related to my p/steering as well, however had steering pump fixed at the same time, still stalling. have done some additional searching and people have been having the same prob tracked back to various sensors such as engine temp and air flow meter. will have a look in fast tonight when i get home to see about replacing them

yep she's still a complete stocker apart from the almost mandatory stereo upgrade. why's that? "yeah mine did that when i put the breaks on also, would just about stall. i had a transmission gasket leak. loss i pressure i put it down to. now im up for a rebuild LOL ! take it to any trans workshop who can hook it up to there comp, or nissan dealer best bet. dont leave it too long. left mine for about 12,000km's and got the worst result hehe all the best dude" yowsers - i'll be a little pissed if i'm up for a rebuilt only 8months after buying it any idea of ball parks prices i'd be looking at for an AT service?

well, the stag is stalling. i'm presuming that its an AT issue primarily because when the car is warm (seems to run completely fine on cold start and idle in neutral is fine and steady), i start to get issues when slowing to a stop - engine revs drop RIGHT down, as though trans isn't dropping down gears? once these games have begun it stalls intermitently during accellerating when it need to shift up as well. engine revs drop right off to nothing, though it will intermittently pick up again as though the trans catches like when you jump start a manual. it's been doing this for a couple of weeks now because i've not had the cash to get it sorted. went to have it looked at the other day and was told it was the fuel filter being block up which while understandable why they thought that, doesn't ring right with me. so i've got a couple of questions: 1. does my diagnosis seem reasonable? if you need more info before you can say yay or nay, let me know. 2. does anyone know of a reputable auto trans servicing centre they can recommend in perth? or does anyone have a consult cable and software than can read the fault codes for me? cheers, Dave.

i'll try have a look at it this week some time, but have to take it back to the place i got it from so they can fix my p/steering noise properly anyway. they can sort out the turbo at the same time

righto, so i got my stag serviced yesterday (as per warranty requirements) and had the shop do a proper inspection on it - i'm not sure the last one did. so i've got a fair old list of things to fix now. or an excuse to upgrade, i'm not sure yet. there are a few items on the list that might as well have been printed in small dollar signs like oils leaks around rocker cover, steering rack, diff housing, and aircon pump. but its the seized turbo wastegate that has me a little confused. i have noticed that my stag is more sluggish than normal but i think it was more of a gradual decline, so now that it's been brought to my attention its really annoying me. so basically i get how a forced induction system works and the role of the wastegate in that, and how if its stuck open, the pressure will keep bleeding out. But having never actually seen one, is this a repairable item? also, seems a little odd for it to seize, would it be more likely for the solenoid to be buggered instead? the reason i ask, is that i presume the solenoid can be replaced and would rather replace that than start out having extensive work done if i dont need it at the moment. cheers

this is going to sound arsey, but a quick read through the DIY thread answers almost all of those questions - perhaps not the nismo struts question.. have fun with your service