NICKCEFFY

hey guys need some urgent help, I've got an rb25 in my 180 it having issues getting it going to get it tuned we've just gone and fitted up a new turbo, manifold and done an injector swap on my RB25, and while everything was pulled off i tidied up the wiring under the dash, it has a custom loom but in the initial wire up I forgot to add the unswitched power as we had troubles saving the map on the power fc last tune so i thought this may have been the cause, but now we've gone to power everyhting up to set the injector values before we start the car and the fuel pump relay is constantly clicking. I have the fuel pump neg on a switch so i can isolate that and when i do we can hear a feint clicking in the coil packs (disconnected the to check if it was). I've now disconnected all the wires i had played with and checked the power wires to the eccs relay but it still happens, If i check earth continuity at the relay i can get a beep on the multimeter on three pins, and there fore back at the fuse panel. could it be the relay has shit itself, as i though this shouldnt happen or with the power on will this happen. If any one has any ideas just throw them in the ring, I don't have another computer (stock or fc) at the moment to check if it will work with that but i can't see that i would have damaged anything in the computer so this shouldn't be it. I've tried a couple of things but any other ideas will be welcomed, Cheers Nick

haha! cool you found some old pics of my rig! Just to add to the pics!, the laurel driveline ended up in the 180 you can just see

I've just done mine chocky. basically pull the full loom from out of the front of the car. Strip the tape off the loom and work out where its going to sit under the dash, mine is right next to the other fuse panel cable tied up out of the way. Then cut and shorten and solder/heatshrink each cable one by one. while the loom was stripped I also removed the Abs wiring to cut out some cables, then I also drilled a hole just above the chassis rail near the alternator to bring that wiring out under the guard then back over the wheel arch and moved the battery to the boot but run the power wire in behind the strut down under the break booster to the starter motor. Having it ran here also allowed me to put a decent fuse in and also a place to put the jumper leads if i need to jump start the car again.

Nah haven't been able to try it due to it being track only and the driveway isn't quite long enough, lol! the first time it started happening we thought it was fuel issues, but have since rebuilt the fuel system and then the second time was the last event of the year and spent most f the time diagnosing every thing else but only just sort of connect the dots when we heard the clicking. it was most likely happening all the time but during the competition it wasn't some thing we were looking for so didn;t really take note of it

awesome cheers mate, much appreciated!

well basing it on its definately alot doughy-er in low revs (not 100% on actual revs as i don't have a tacho) but more worried with the pretty much consistant ticking of the solenoid, which has lead me to believe that it is an issue with the VCT. I've done a compression test (approx 158-9 across all six) all clamps and silicon joiners have been checked, air flow meter checked for cracks and leaks (its located in the cool side of the cooler pre throttle) and spark plugs were only done recently Cheers for any help though

ah shit! no worries will go try the first few and hopefully it works before i get to the ecu

Cool, i'll try that, but is there any reason why it would be constantly clicking while on idle?

Hey guys, hopefully somebody might be able to help me out here, over the last couple of track days my rb25 180 has felt slightly underpowered on some laps but then others felt ok. so looking under the bonnet i can here the solenoid for the vct cam on the side of the block, with the plug and two wires coming off of it, clicking on and off (presumably) even while the car is idling. Would this be causing some of the issues with lack of power, i.e not switching the cam properly and would it be a simple fix of replacing the solenoid or is it something alot more involved than that like wiring or the actually cam If someone has some leads or ideas that i could try that would be heaps appreciated Cheers Nick

sold! sending PM

wow! that was/is going to be so clean. very jealous of the MFR parts aswell! actually just jealous of the whole car!

how much and would you be able to post to hobart 7173?

any chance you still have the power steering pump, bracket and resevoir mate?

Hey mate, I'm after the power steering pump, bracket and resevoir if you have it still? and will you send to hobart?

Not sure if this is the right section but hopefully someone can help or point me in the right direction help guys got a major issue and scratching my head with whats going on. Car 180 sx Engine RB 25(relocated back 50mm) Steering pump rb20 Steering rack s13 & r32 (relcoated forward 20mm and up 8mm Steering lines Custom high pressure line New low pressure to small cooler into resevoir So the problem i've had with both racks, is once i get the rack in and bolted down the car running a bleed the system by turning the wheels it feels all good then once i leave the wheel an top the resevoir i come back to turn the wheel again and it will just pull out of my hands and then rack back and forth uncontrollably then once i turn the car off the rack now feels real tight and won't return to 'normal' The motor is relocated back and i would only have 3-4 mm clearance between the sump and the rack but it doesn't feel like there is enough heat in the sump to affect the rack or cause air bubbles, the system has plenty of fluid and as said the cooler so now i'm clutching at straws to know what is wrong and how to fix it. So if anyone has any ideas please fire them my way, i'm open to anything and will try any suggestions if i haven't already cheers Nick

Hey guys, hopefully some of you might be able to shed some light on a miss fire issure I'm having with my cefiro, basically the car won't rev up it just coughs and splutters once you apply a bit of load to the engine and it sounds like it backfires in to the inlet manifold if you try and rev it up too much and it seems to be related to number 1 cylinder I have done the following to the car to try and track down the issue and some other probs i've noticed as i've fiddled around replaced plugs with new BCPR6S 0.8mm gap tried disconnecting the coils and tracked it down to number one cylinder not firing swapped around coil packs with no change in number one tried another ignitor module, no change in issue tried checking all wiring plugs are all connected properly (with this i noticed if i wiggled the CAS plug to much the car would stall, similar with and have had a look over the cooler piping, but this wouldn't lead to the problem being only located in number 1 If you have any ideas that would be appreciated as I'm totally confused and don't have many more ideas, apart from wiring being damaged but i haven't done anything to warrent this cheers Nick

Yeh use the laurel now for drift, has shit loads of lock, control arms have been pushed out 20mm run a +22 17 x 9 on a 25mm spacer, NP wonder knuckles, scalloped control arms and supernow rack spacer, it rubs a little but not enough to warrant worrying about at the moment, and that is more so on the castor rod.

a littlevid of my laurel from last week end at the last round of the tassie series, thanks to Optical note photography

i got the Wonder Cefiro in the cupboard just waiting to put it together

Ah f**ker! that sucks, though if its rego-able it might be worth looking into fixing it, surely a skyline upper would be the same and easy-ish to get a hold of.

I'm running the whiteline adjustable SR front bar in both my laurel and cefiro, haven't had any issues with it hitting the sump, on full drop it comes close but when the car is on the deck it clears. the only problem i have it the arm isn't quite long enough over the LCA to make the link sit more up right, but its not enogh to affect me I bought them both over 2 years ago so unless the design has changed significantly there shouldn't be aby issues. Just have to remember to fit it with the wheels supported so your not trying to fit it with the LCA's at two different heights and with them at droop.

whats happened man?

does it need a flush and refill/bleed, they can play up if this is the case

I'm with Mr Eps with the aftermarket colour thing, but i reckon a dark olive bronzy colour

Can't wait to see this one built up mate