NICKCEFFY

Hey mate silvia ones will work with a little bit of work, the one to the rear is pretty much a bolt on fit and the two to the front just need to be stretch out a little bit. I used them on my ceff as it made the search a whole lot easier

Hey mate, have you got the external metal trim that goes on the passenger side front windscreen, its the one that screws in under the door rubber and covers the edge of the glass

hey mate, check wether you have a full 12v power at your eccs relay, as with mine i found there was a power wire that runs from in the 33 dash that provides the power for this relay (and coil pack relay too if its series one) and is the constant power from the computer. i'll try an dig out what pin number it is on the computer you should also connect at least the monitor/ check lamp (cat light on the dash)

yeh i got that about floggin the cog out after i tried it the first time the shaft i realised after i pulled it all apart the first time but it made it easier to take a couple of pics!

Nah mine were generic ones from a shop in Hobart called Automotive Service Solutions, i'm guessing there would be a place similar to this where you are http://www.efi.com.au/index.php

i mounted mine on the opposite side above the brake booster, so it was away from any extra heat, i also replaced my injector wiring plugs with some new ones as the rb20 ones are slightly different to GTR ones but with some filing they can fit, this was also cause the old plastic had turned a bit brittle over age and another thing the new ones had a spring style clip so you didn't loose the little wire retaining clip. You should use vaseline as the lube for your o rings, The power wire from the resistor i just took strait to the battery but installed a fuse in the line, this also give a good decent 12'v for you injector power and as soon as you strip the insulation off the injector wiring the wires become a bit more obvious, and you don't have specific wires out of the resistor to join to specific injectors as long as you join all six wires to each injector.

Cheers for your help guys, i now have the problem sorted and the car runs on the PFC, It was a lack of power issue as you said DirtGarage, it seems in the transplant of putting the 25 into the Laurel i missed out on wiring in the Unswitched power onto the computer and in so getting the full 12v power to the ECCS relay. Cheers Nick

cheers guys, first off, car runs absolutely fine on the standard computer, i've done about 800kms over last weekend running everything in making sure there was no issues with the car before installing the PFC boosting it up. As for the battery i've relocated it to the boot but as it has been good for starting the car with no issues on the standard computer, I haven't had another 33 to check the pfc on but i talked to the mechanic who tuned the car it came out of and he said it was fine and had no issues with his tuning, but also when my mechanic went to try and wipe the original tune of it and start mine from scratch the computer wouldn't allow him to do that either with the laptop or the hand controller. Could it be that i need to upgrade the main power wire from the battery directly to the computer so it doesn't have any voltage drop travelling halfway around the car from the boot to engine bay then back into the cabin?

Hey guy i need a bit of a definative answer please, i have recently dropped an RB25 into my Laurel, so last weekend using the stock computer and AFM i ran the motor in after its rebuild, then during the week when we went to get it tuned the PFC i have would not let the car start, with the ignition on the computer would switch on get onto the monitor screen but then a relay at the back of the car would keep clicking off an on and the car would turn over but not fire, so then sticking a screw driver onto the 1st and 6th injectors would could not even here them firing. So the question is what model PFC should i be using, i have one with the seriel number PFC RB259911-0009 but have since found a couple on other cars with the number ECR33010-**** Now going on the premise that if i had any wiring wrong to start the standard computer would not work and if anything was wrong with the PFC it wouldn't even load up as far as any menu's but mine i can get right into the monitor screen and check the AFM values etc, so does anyone know what the deal is. Also the car has been stripped of excess wiring from the stereo,heaters, any door wiring(windows central locking etc) and air conditioning would any of this be the cause Cheers Nick

Hey daniel-san, any chance you would have the turbo water line and oil filter mount on the engine you would consider pulling off? i need them to get the 25 finished off an into the Laurel. Cheers Nick

I'm not sure what you guys have but in Hobart there is a place that can rebuild the little gas struts, so there maybe something similar to that?

Hey guys, so i've just completed setting up a navara pinion assembly for the speedo drive into a r32, ceff, laurel etc, so hopefully this should help everyone out that doesn't a working speedo in their car after slipping the rb25 box into, i haven't had a chance to test whether it works completly in the car as its all apart but for intent and purpose i can't see why it wouldn't work. So to complete the set up you will need the standard electronic rb25 box speedo drive Navara pinion Assembly, part number 32702 - 02G17( i'll double check the number) small hammer pin punch chisel hacksaw drill bits and if you have access to a lathe this makes the job a little easier So to start with you need to get both pinions and remove the small locking type pin from half way up the shaft and set aside for re-use on the rb25 drive remove the circlip from the base of the shaft and remove the red gear, this is what you need to fit to the Navara shaft. Now onto the Navara assembly, once you have removed the locking pin from up the shaft, as circled in first pic, remove the complete inner shaft out of the body and set it up in a vice, this is where you have to cut the black gear of the shaft as its moulded onto the shaft in production, i just used a hacksaw and cut it up around the body and used a hammer and chisel to break it off. Next is having to fit the red gear onto the Navara shaft, This is where having a lathe comes in handy as you would notice in the pic the rb25 gear has a shoulder it locks into whereas the navara shaft has a set of splines on its body, you mount the gear in to the metal lathe just using the shoulder don't use the jaws of the chuck around the actual teeth of the gear. and using a drill bit slightly bigger than the hole in the gear but smaller than the splines on the navara shaft drill it out, the lathe is set correctly will line bore the gear and keep everything inline and true once its all back together, Once you have drilled the centre of the gear out it should tap gently into place on the shaft. The gear should sit all the way over the shaft lining the bottom of the shaft up with the bottom of the gear. Now this is where i put the shaft back in the lathe and span it up to check everything is still in line. if its all good and when the shaft is back in the body and the pin will slip back in without binding the shaft up you can then use the second pin out of the original rb25 speedo drive to lock the gear onto the navara shaft so it won't spin or slide off the shaft. Now you have the pin holding the gear onto shaft re-grease the shaft back up slip it into the body of the speedo drive hammer the locking pin back in place and your done! Go Wash up and have numerous beers!! and don't laugh at my paint skills!! Cheers Nick

how much did you pay for the clutch mate, i'm looking for one for my 25 aswell and how do you contact this bloke??

EDIT: that should be RB30 oil filter block!!!!!!

hey guys as the title says that what i'm looking for, would prefer hobart area but can go up north! Cheers nick

I'm pretty sure i've got the BNF21Z, i'll see if the sticker is still on it tonight an confirm for ya

Pm sent

Yeh the front brake lines may need lengthening, i've got s14 lines on the ceff an 32 ones on the laurel and on full lock they are really just a bit tight, you could look at the braided ones cablemate make, about a hundred per line i think but if you asked for like s13 line an inch or so bigger it would work, thats with out really looking at a 33 set up. nah the laurel is no where near, i've sprayed the engine bay and painted the interior, now just got all the column and pedals back in so will do the wiring and dash tomorrow, and hopefully start pulling the motor down for new rings and bearings

hey Toff, the rear should already be a drum set up, so you should have to only use the hub set up off a 32, the disc and caliper, the drum size between the two (r32 and ceff) is exactly the same. thats all i did with mine, and will do with the laurel

i've got a reo bar mate, where abouts are you located?

PM SENT

+1, I've got most of mine sorted to but just need confirmation of what wires are needed/un needed and how the wires on the 5 pin plug under the power steering resevoir connect up to the 32 ones in the same spot, i.e colour to colour. Cheers nick

we cut the inner an outer skin, and added a section in between the factory guard and rolled edge, so it still has the factory edge to the bottom of it.

hey mate, 9.5 +17 uras ns-o1's so pretty much the same, front: 2.5 degrees camber 20mm flares rear: 1.5 degrees camber, 25mm spacer 4omm flare

Theres some nice four doors in there, here's my ceffy pretty much standard engine, two way, coilovers and arms etc, fibreglass front guards 40mm flared metal rears and uras kit, uras NS-01 wheels 17 x 9.5 all round, 25mm spacer on the rear