zymotic

Imported mine bout 5 months ago thru Prestige. Came on a big http://www.kiwicar.com/ boat that has insurance included. Insurance commences from when the car is loaded to when the car is trans to compliancers i think. U need to know whats on/in the car to begin with. Also arrange to see the car at the wharves give it a going over to make sure everythings there no damage cos if u need to make a claim u need to do it asap. Also this way u can make sure compliancers dont take anything. There business relies on delivering cars in good cond otherwise they'd go out of business. But thats a bit of a generalisation.

Holy Crap! Can't believe i read all that. Mines my car is only a GTST but the way i treat it u would think it was a Porche. I appreciate this car cos I worked for it. Before this i had an 81 XD falcon, 76 Escort, VB then VL commos - all much slower than even a GTST. When you've worked for something yourself u treat it with a lot of respect cos when u look at it you know the work that went into it. If you keep getting handed these powerful cars on a platter then u have no respect. If u continue down this track it is only a matter of time till u kill yourself or others. Its your choice though. Youve been given 2 second chances, how many more will you have maybe a million maybe none. Do yourself a favour get a job buy a cheap car, learn to drive, learn respect, stay alive... realise you're not GOD for drving a GTR so very fast.

My climate control makes a knocking sound when i turn the car on does about 8 or so times also does it when the aircon changes fan speed. My seat belt makes a clicking noise which I also now can rarely hear after exhuast install. :bonk:

yep thats definately the way i want mine to look. Nice job Al, have to remember this thread for my future FMIC installation. BTW what are the dimensions of your FMIC?

apparently my gf's dad (hillclimb champ, ex sprint car champ) told me that ultimate is the best because it is created as a 98 octance rated fuel while optimax is a 95 octane rated fuel with additives to make it 98...

Yes not happy about that but they told me those were the rules and yes they gave me a roadworthy to take to QLD Transport without spare... Oh by the way anybody got any ideas on soundproofing for my boot. I think im getting fair amount of resonance from the exhuast tip through the boot. Thinking of going to clark rubber and getting some foam to put in behind the back seat to dampen the droning.

Service was fine, spoke to Bob Beedham he just recently sold his 33 so he new what i was after. Only added extra $50 for twin instead of single dump. Happy as plus 2 year warranty. Just need to make it quieter. What have u had done there?

Ok just drove it for the first time. Yep boost comes quicker and harder @ 11psi. Gave it a bit nowhere near redline (not game yet) and can definately notice more power guess with the twin dump full 3inch and 11 psi Id be around the 160 rwkw mark now. But man is it loud. Anybody got any ideas on what sort of sound proofing i can put in my boot. The compliancers wont give me my spare so its empty and probably making it more noisy! Thinking some kind of foam needs to be light and block noise really well...

cars in the workshop atm. Just called them about GFB bleed they dont carry them. He said that most peeps happy with the turbosmart said its the new model. He also said that most bleed valves spike under heavy load anyways. Oh well time will tell. Oh and when u guys say spiking Im guessing u mean something like when u give it a good amount of throttle at high revs/under load that the turbo tends to stutter sort of like a blocked carb or something? Forgive my newbness but not sure exactly what that means...

Gonna get my first mods tommorrow <----------- NEWB Twin dump pipe 3 inch from turbo mild steel to stainless tip via Jack Beedhams @ Redcliffe + El Cheapo Turbosmart bleed valve set at somewhere between 10 -12 psi. Weathers hot up here may go for just 10... $1250 all up. Should notice bit of a difference eh? Maybe 20 rwkw.. Wonder how loud it will be, not too loud mehopes.

My budget had a ceiling of $20k. I started looking at mid late 90's celica... Nice looking, toyota reliable, probably handle nice. Then also at Honda Prelude mid 90's again nice looker, Honda superb build qual and reliability. But they were not enough - stock 1/4 mile not very fast. Enter the skyline. Obsession. Mmm 187kw standard 0-100 6.21 1/4 14.4 poss wow all this and a beautiful looking car, with loads of Jap gizmos and legendary Nissan reliability (had a VL be4 50% jap of course) I was sold. People keep saying how nice it looks. I take it for a fang up MT Glorious close the redline oh it goes nice. Makes driving an experience not a chore like it used to b. Cant wait to get my twin dump, full 3 inch and hiflo cat shortly. The build quality is superb i mean its 8 years old but it dont look like it someone who knows nothing bout skylines would say it looks like an exotic $60k+. Lol all for $20k. No regrets. Big fan.

mmm. I thought u wanted more room R34 < R33. SS way to go I think, maybe similar Ford. Theres something just not right about a skyline towing a boat.

What I don't understand is how you can enforce parity on these cars that are worlds apart? How do u compare a R34GTR to a Monaro, such different cars, how do u try to make them equal.

Just remember u will be driving a Nissan. Nissans are very reliable and beautifully engineered cars at a good price. My R33 GTS25t is stock as a rock, but if i launch it right it takes off like a bullet and is definately capable of beating a stock WRX. You won't be disappointed. Ive had my car for 2 months now and its made driving something to look forward to again. When I think about climbing aboard I get a dumb grin on my face. The RB25DET is capable of producing virtually double its standard Horsepower with the right mods and stock engine internals. Thats impressive. These cars are capable of 13 sec 1/4 mile with a few good mods (and faster with more...) They also look much betta than any falcodore (monaro included), wrx, nearly all other jap cars with a standout exception in my eyes being the S15 - they are a beatiful car - Nissans also. Cant go wrong with Nissan.

Yea u can do ok importing but I would add on at least $2k to prestiges prices. Geoff was good to me and I can recommend them, but you have to do your research and realise that their price does not include all on road costs in your state. If you are after stockish car then importing is ok. Even mildly mod cars can be expensive due to removing all mods for RAWS compliance then adding them later - can be 1000's extra. Getting it standard at that ok price means i have cash left for tints, alarm, insurance. Just about to buy front/dump and cat from BATMBL on these forums as first mod. Yea so if afta stock car import can be good value for $. Bit like shares higher risk but possibility of higher return. $ saved can always go on mods fitted in Aus to your own specs not someone elses. Horses for Courses.

I bought this is and on the road for $18k R33 Better off going local if you want mods.

how much? private sale?

Ah. Couldnt resist could I. Magna lookalike well.. maybe if your Mr #@$%ing MAGOO! I own a 33 but I like 32's and 34's as well - hows that for fence sitting. The fact is they are all nice, fast cars full of funky jap gadgets. Drove my boses 4 year old commonbore the other day my 8 year old car felt like heaven after that tank... I think with the right treatment all 3 can look really swish............... for japanese taxis anyway (j/k)

Think it could be a series 1.5 looks almost exactly the same as my series 1.5. I think I can just make out a series 2 spoiler on the back??? Should make it a 95 series 1.5 (officially series 1 of course). I think the black around the front lights is also a sign of series 1. Seems to have cut away some of the front grill.

Process = modifying the car to Australian Design Rules (ADR) supposedly. Things like side intrusion bars (if not standard), new fuel filler, dot standard tyres etc. Its done so cars like skylines that are unbelievably unsafe (cough, cough) can be made to comply with ADR and thus be safe (cough), according to the pen pushers. Eg. the compliance workshop was unable to give me my space saver spare wheel cos sum pen push said that they are not safe??? Hope I don't get a flat. R33 cost me $3850 + $700 tyres done on the Gold Coast a couple of mths ago.

Imported 95 GTST 59k $18k on the road

Prestige my 95 stock (atm) gtst is insured for $20k

My exhaust saga continues... Ok after talking to Rob Bliss he said that they would do a Single Dump Pipe. He said that this gives better low down (revs i guess) grunt than a twin. This sound accurate? Guess I'm thinking that would be good to get the car off the mark, make more even power from off to on boost. Maybe.. Anyways guess Ill save the extra $900 and get him to do the job. Doubt that the additional cost of CES @ $2k would also mean 45% more power as well as cost. Then I may have a woping 155 rwkw lol.

That best bang for the buck this was something I read in here, but I wouldnt really know anyway. Guess I was thinking that 32-35 was excessive also so I wanted confirmation from AusGTR that he really made the 'claimed gains', and that a CES exhaust is worth getting ($2K) when i can get a Rob Bliss one for ($1.1k). Just trying to make best decision on my first performance mod. IE Rob Bliss will do or CES racing is worth it because it gives better performance.

Looks good but do u believe that u gained the 50 rwkw that CES claim for their full GTR system. I mean I've only got an ECR33 although they claim 32-35 rwkw gain from the full system for one of these. Basically, I just wanna know that ill get the best gains in rwkw from these guys considering exhuasts are ur best kw for $ gains as compared to other mods, before I part with $2k. How much did u pay for ur Godzillas exhaust?