R33_NICK

As above, Im building an RB25 and need to do the obvious machining, balancing, etc...would like to know their experience with RB engines or just general feedback from their work. Cheers, Nick

Hi MLCrisis, how have you been? Hows your car going? Thanks for the info. Ill probs head down to 101 and see if they have one for RB25s. If all else fails, then ill do what GTST V spec and bubba does and exchange one over east but ill give Garage101 a try first. Thanks again. Cheers.

Is there anyone in WA who can do High-volume sumps with internal trapdoors and baffles? I know Justjap, Tweakit and Spool Imports do them over east but would be easier if theres anyone locally who could do them.

No worries . I do wheel alignments almost evryday at work. Yes, you can try swapping them left to right to see if it pulls to the opposite direction. it'd be better if they arent directional but it should be ok if its just temporary for checking. if it does pull to the opposite direction, then its the tyres that are at fault but if it still pulls to the same direction, then its the alignment. if your wheel bearings have play in them they may contribute to the car's behaviour but not so much to actually make the car's behaviour on the road that badly. if you have free-play in your wheel bearings, it is advisable to change them first before an alignment is carried out but i dont think that is your problem at the moment especially if theres no freeplay. sometimes when the camber is out on one side at the rear, it can cause the car to pull because the tyre that has the most contact patch will mean that they have more grip on the road and being equipped with LSD where you get both wheels spinning at the same rate, the tyre with the most grip will cause the vehicle to pull to that direction where it has the most grip almost similar to torque steer, which affects its thrust angle that also affects the front alignment or steering direction causing crabbing or tram-lining(which is why with LSD equipped vehicles or AWD cars especially, its advisable to have the same type of tyre, thread pattern or wear on both sides as any difference can have negative impact on its behaviour on the road). I had a car that was pulling quite badly to the right and when i checked his wheel alignment, there was too much negative camber on this example the left side and his car was pulling badly to the right because the right side camber is more neutral hence that tyre has more contact patch/grip. luckily his adjustments havent maxed out so i was able to adjust his camber to be equal all round and the car drove fine after that. also keep in mind if you drive the car on that alignment for awhile your tyres are going to wear according to that set up. but in your case, id start by swapping the front tyres left to right to see if it pulls to the opposite direction or all of a sudden it drives straight. if it doesnt change then we'll need to pay close attention to the wheel alignment as mentioned above. AWD cars need more attention with their wheel alignments. i'd still ask the aligner whether the right hand rear camber adjustment has maxed out seeing as he's just left the camber alone like that because if its my car, i cant accept it unless the adjustment bush has actually maxed out which means you cant do anything about it unless you have adjustable arms. but if theres still room to move, theres no excuse as to why he couldnt neutralise it more. i wont call this current setting compensation alignment as your current camber settings are opposite of what it should be for compensation of road camber+driver's weight.

Means your old alignment is good for the track but not good for tyre wear when just driving normally. Theres always compromises when setting your car up to perform better for the track and tyre longevity for daily driving. like for example: you set your car up to have more negative camber so you get better turn in and maximum contact patch when cornering, making full use of your tyre's grip at the track but the trade off is when driving normally or in a straight line, the excessive negative camber means only the inside half of the tyre is contacting the road which will chew out your tyres. Race alignment and daily driving/factory alignments dont mix as each have their compromises. Looking at your wheel alignment report, theres still way too much negative camber at the right rear which means your left rear tyre has more contact patch(possible cause as to why it pulls left since more of the left tyre is contacting the road) on the road than the right and becomes worse when you sit in the car as the driver's weight will make the right side sit slightly lower, increasing negative camber at that corner and make its contact patch worse. how much has your car been lowered? excessive lowering means the adjustable bush has reached it limit (this is why i went adjustable arms as they have more adjustment range even at the expense of NVH which i can live with if it means longer tyre life or better alignment control) and cause the aligner to not able to add more positive camber but id be asking the aligner whether this is why he couldnt adjust your right camber more though that said, he should have mentioned this to you when you pick your car up. Note if your tyres are still the same ones that are on the car before the alignment is done, dont think that the problem will go away after the alignment as there is 'tyre memory' where the tyre is worn according to the old alignment and can contribute to the cars sporadic behaviour that cant be fixed with a wheel alignment unless the tyres are changed and another wheel alignment carried out to suit the new tyre. but seeing as you've replaced your tyres and had a wheel alignment carried out together, i guess your problem is now your current alignment which we can clearly see is a possible cause to your car's behaviour. note i said possible as there can be many other factors that can cause any vehicle to pull. hope this makes sense

we got an engine off them last year and even one of our mechanics said that the thing about them is: they have that "if u dont have money go elsewhere" sort of attitude.

They are armed all the time red or green so that people dont speed through intersections, always see people getting flashed speeding through even though the light is still green. Apparently, speed is detected using in-road sensors placed at a fixed distance apart and it measure the time it takes a vehicle to travel between each sensor. If the sensors record that a vehicle's speed is greater than the posted speed limit, a photograph and video of the vehicle is taken. funny i read that they are LIDAR lasers. a little off-topic but also kinda related, those new vitronic poliscans laser cameras are the ones to watch out for. one of our guys at work got done speeding even though he was close to 100m away from the camera and didnt see the camera until he was close to it as it was well camouflaged with the green body and it didnt flash which made him think he got away with it until he got a mail. see them in the back of Nissan X-Trails and VW Transporter vans as well. seems like by the time you see it its too late, same goes for some radar detectors not able to pick them from far.

Exactly. We have to mark the wheel position before we take it off so that it goes back on the same way. Nissan told us this when we were sent for training. Tip: make your on marks on the stud thats in the same position as the valve on the rim, cant go wrong.

no worries let us know how you go. sometimes the noise goes away when just tightening the wheel nuts or even the driveshaft nuts as well as when tightening it pulls the rotor tighter against the hub or in driveshafts case further into the splines which should eliminate movement tho that said the noise did come back after awhile which is why we lubricated both the driveshaft and hub splines and hub surface everytime we hear it clicking. and out of a lot we did. only a handful had the noise came back but mainly because they havent been driven after washed.

We have plenty of R35 GTRs coming in with this noise as well. What we normally do is remove the wheels, remove rotors, sand down the rusts on the hub and applied lube between the hub and rotor hat. Another thing to note is the SPLINES ON THE DRIVESHAFTS AND HUB also need to be lubricated. Everytime we get a GTR coming in with clicking noise, we also lubricate the driveshaft splines as well and it seems to fix the problem. Driveshaft nuts can loosen a bit over time enough to cause this noise so obviously it needs to be retorqued when driveshafts are removed which is also why Nissan updated us to check and retorque driveshaft nuts everytime it comes in for a service since the MY11 GTRs were released as this is also what they've found that needs checking when testing the MY11 GTR on the Nurburgring. Driveshaft nuts are 225NM incase you want to know. Also guys, its not just R35 GTRs but even Muranos, X-Trails, 350Z, 370Z and Maximas are doing it as well: full lock, on acceleration sometimes. Be sure that after washing your car that you take it for a drive and get the brakes to warm up so that water can be dispersed from them. If you leave them standing after they've been washed, it will rust between the rotor hat and hub and cause the noise to come back earlier than you may expect. Nissan stated this on the owner's manual too.

Does anyone know what is the standard RB25DET Head Gasket thickess? Im currently building my engine and got 8.5:1 compression pistons waiting to go in but i dont want to lower the compression below what is mentioned.

Steve wont be working tomorrow but i can get it on Monday. PM me your number and ill text you the complete prices when i get them.

i work at Northside Nissan mate, i can get prices for you from Steve Barnes. seems everyone has forgotten me about your air-con belt, i would recommend you replace the other 2 belts as well so you dont have to change them again later which iagain i can get prices as well. just chuck us your number and on Monday ill get back to you.

wgmg, Sony Australia delaying the release date of GranTurismo 5!

whats the detection range of the new Vitronic Poliscans though? being laser instead of the old radar, by the time the radar detector picks it up,the Poliscans would've already caught your speed? can anyone confirm this? i was looking at a radar detector before but after hearing this new speed cameras use lasers which by theory will have a wider detection range, i was put off spending too much on something that doesnt work well and now that they are going to ban them soon anyway.

did you sak to Steve Barnes? those prices dont sound right.

I can get a price and availability for your badge and grille if you want. i work at Northside Nissan btw.

hahaha bird didnt know what hit it. funny seeing it explode but hate what it does to your bodywork.

ive bought this last year and am very happy with its performance. love how theres so many functions on just 2 buttons tho it was confusing at first and you'll lose your settings if you replace your battery. ive spliced my signal wire on my ecu's tacho signal wire

Mods, you can close this now. Ive ordered Cusco Rear camber arms instead. just thought id let everyone know, Xspeed has a pair of Cusco rear camber arms at the moment when i visited them last week. If you want Kazamas, go to JPC and Vision R can order in Cuscos for you. Ive bought my Cuscos online at Perfectrun.jp as they are pretty reasonably priced and you can also check Nengun if you can wait for that long for your parts to arrive.

feels a bit more solid but the throw isnt much different from factory(only 10% claimed by Nismo) and that for $200+ isnt really worth it especially if you dont like the noise it transfers. funny how NISMO didnt make their slit shifters(30% shorter apparently) for some Skyline models.

fair enough man. even ive blown all my money on my suspension parts already. ive decided on JJRs instead as they seem pretty decend for their price(well thats all the money i have left after buying the other parts).

suspension isnt something you must skimp on just like brakes so to be safe, its best to go for Jap brands you can afford. despite saying that, some non-jap ones like Whiteline are ok just so long they are made with strong materials. ive just ordered Just Jap's camber arms as im through waiting. I havent heard any bad feedbacks from JustJap's parts and they are made from medium carbon steel so I guess its ok tho i actually wanted the Cusco or Kazama arms(you should see the thickness of their camber arms) since their construction looks solid.

fair enough. i never thought they'd be interchangeble since most aftermarket manufacturers, even factory use the ring type for 32s and single rod type for 33s so i thought they'd be completely different but like you said its all just visual

doesnt seem like anyone knows where to get Jap suspension parts in WA