grae35

You can pull out the rubber grommet to get access to the rear hand brake adjusters and back them off a bit. But when I did mine last year the backing plate was held to the rotor by rust etc so you need to give the centre of the rotors a few hits with a club hammer to loosen same. I had to be quite brutal to free it up. It isnt particularly difficult other than for loosening the rear rotors.

I've got one too. They aren't that rare!

Did mine with superpro a couple of weeks ago. Bought a cheap 6 tonne workshop press from supercheap ($99) and found that their calibre brand 30mm socket ($4.95) is the perfect size press tool to press out old and press in new. Didnt have any trouble with soft alloy at all.

So if speedo reads 100kph and actually travelling at 96.3kph wont that mean that odometer reading of 100km will actually be only 96.3km travelled and hence will clock up 4% more kms than the odometer reads????

Yes factory engine cover fits with 5/16 spacer and also some brands of front strut brace. More significantly for me though the 5/16 offers greater gains across whole rev band and doesnt focus on the top end as in the 1/2 inch model. Greg as you live in N Qld you really will also benefit from the thermal insulating effect on the top plenum which cuts heat soak and keeps power levels up even on warmer days. This I have found to be significant. I am also sceptical about the Z tubes. Did a lot of research into them years ago and am not convinced that nissan arent being really clever in air flow and harmonics when designing the air box and tubes we have as std. Sure the z tube changes the induction sound if that is what you want. But may not do much else unless you are only using the top half of your rev band in racing etc. K & N air filters are good and I have one simply because of convenience to frequently clean and reuse. But you have to be soooo careful not to overoil and stuff up your AFM. I use an AFM cleaner each time I clean the filter and re oil. Certainly safer to just use a new paper filter cartridge.

Good general advise regarding engine performance mods. This is why I have done very few. My claim for plenum spacer gains is not from their advertising claims but from pre and post dyno measurement. I cannot honestly say that 19hp extra feels much through the seat of your pants but certainly shows up on the dyno and backed up on the drag strip by an improved et from 14.85 stock to 14.39 after plenum install. Fuel economy can improve but only if you resist the temptation to use the extra power. The engine does sound different under full acceleration but around town you will not pick a difference.

I agree with zei201 in thinking the reason is for grip. The balance of our cars is such that if you track them and have same front and rear tyres you generally find the rears let go before the fronts and this becomes the limit of your speed through corners. ie at the limit oversteer ( at least that is what I found with my sedan on std tyres - same size front and rear.) When you put on wider rears, as std on a most of the coupes, this balances the car much better at the limit and has more neutral steering. I have found to 225/45/18 fronts and 245/45/18 rears to be just about perfect for balance of grip coming out of corners. Of course for normal daily driving you are better off with what you have done because of the ability to rotate your tyres which the rest of us cannot do .

Get yourself a motordyne 5/16" iso copper plenum spacer. Best bang for bucks. Cost about $270 (fit yourself) and dynoed at 19extra hp at the wheels. Beats most exhaust mods in hp. Also no low down loss of torque trade off to get increased top end power(most cat back systems do this) Put the rest of your money into really good tyres.

I can tell you from experience at track days that it is a very smooth process in practise. The car just stops accelerating and speedo needle climbs no further ( though on my car needle is off end of scale- guessing about 190kph position - speedo error!). It is different in lower gears though and on the skid pan in 2nd gear it will bounce off the fuel cut rhythmically if you let it.

Agree give Greg from GSL Rally sport a call. I have same brakes as you, non brembo on a sedan, and A1RM pads from QFM are a great performance pad that can take track day use. Be especially careful to do some cool down laps before parking as I warped my first set of rotors not doing that. Unfortunatey these brakes are right on the limit for track use and if doing more than 5 laps in a row would suggest easing off in the middle of the bracket to let them cool a bit.. Check out the earlier posts this year from 180wanabe who cooked a rotor on the track.

SOLD

2 Bridgestone 245/45/18 tyres in excellent condition. Approx 75% tread remaining. They came off a second set of rims I bought to use for some motor sport. I have fitted new rubber and so these are surplus to my needs. $70 for the two, pick up from northern Brisbane Mob 0408326989

Good idea to change coolant even though low kms. Nissan (Infinity wshop manual) recommend changing at 48months then every 24months there after. Kilometres travelled are not that critical (like for engine oil) for deciding when to change as the main issue is related to chemical breakdown of coolant and additives due to age and oxidation. Leaving it go too long only risks corosion damage to your engine and with lots of aluminium components its cheap insurance to get a good quality long life coolant and mix with distilled or demineralised water to spec. I have found Nulon to be quite ok and currently on special from supercheap for about $28 for 5 litres of concentrate. Demin water you can buy from your Woolies or Coles. And dont forget to flush and change the coolant in the top up bottle (mixing brands is not a good idea as the chemical interaction of the additives are potentially problematic)

I stand corrected. Just looked on a few sites and appears you are right it is nismo. All these years I thought it was factory. Wont be easy to replace I imagine.

Disagree. It is identical to my 2004 (series 2) sedan bar and as far as I am aware is the factory bar. Mine is in silver but other wise the same.

So Chris are you saying that this is likely to be a problem/dodgy product or just require careful installation practises?

225/45/18 are std for front 245/45/18 are std for rear I also have a sedan and have a set of 18inch coupe rims for motor sport use. They do give an improved wider stance but unfortunately arent rotatable front to back unless you get same size tyres front and rear.

Yep 4dr is a 6speed with only rda slotted front rotors and qfm a1rm performance pads all round . I do have the nissan viscous lsd as std and it is great on the skid pan at Gympie with the SAU QLD guys. Sounds like you are still running with the std speed limiter in place. If so at 1.02.48 you must be right on the fuel cut coming into turn one? I tried to better my time at the Nissan day pm session in october but unfortunately it rained big time and we never got off the clubman circuit. I have not heard of anyone quicker than you including the guy running his modified 370Z on semis in the time attack 2010 series so again well done.

Well done. What a great time. Tell us what mods have you done and what tyres were you using. By the way my time was one of the 1.05's in a stock 4dr sedan on street tyres (bridgestone re050a's 17inch and only 215/55)

Front rotors are easy. Rears require loosening hand brake linings via the adjusters before they come off (bit more effort)

According to V35 (japanese magazine) the series2 (Jan03 - Nov04) models sold in Japan when new as follows 350 GT-8 3.66million Yen 350GT 6MT 3.00million Yen 350GT Premium6MT 3.25million Yen Have no idea what the exchange rate was back then but today it is about 82Yen = $1AUD making them cost between $36k and $46k. No doubt there would be some dealer and rego charges to add but they were not as expensive as you would imagine domestically. (The autos are far more popular in Japan accounting for 99.5% of the production of these models.)

Hey Todd What time do we have to be at Willowbank for this saturday? Cant seem to find an exact start or finish time anywhere.

Hi Stephen Am interested in your Potenzas but have a couple of questions about them. 1. Are they RE50 or RE50A ? 2. Can you tell me how old they are? Look on the outside tyre wall for a four digit number. On RE50A's the number is directly under the BRIDGESTONE label close to the bead/ rim edge. It is usually surrounded by a faint oval pattern in the rubber.

Ive got a 6speed manual 4door and they are a great daily driver. Also they come with the viscous lsd as std whereas the autos dont. Economy depends how you drive it but I regularly get 600km to a tank when not doing motor sport stuff. Agree with comments about the 8 speed CVT. Just a fluid change alone costs hundreds to buy the stuff and do it yourself let alone some more serious issue where no one in Aust would know much about what to do.

Hi Chris Drivers side front floor mat would be great if it isnt too tatty already and assuming it is genuine skyline one.