RIPS

Hi, The R33 style head will not bolt straight on but as described above, it is not a big deal to make it work with mods to the water and oil ports. The girdle I make is purely an adapter plate to enable us to run 4wd RB30's. For 2wd we have made 500rwhp with stock blocks, no problems. With 4wd and totally stock RB30e internals we make 600rwhp and run a 10.20 @ 134mph in a GTS4. Once you sort out the mods to the head (and a few other things which people have missed on this thread) it is a straight forward swap.........Rob

we run a switch on the 4wd fuse under the dash, works fine. switch it off, rear wheel drive for burnout, switch it on 1.45 60fts.

Pretty hard to get an engine to idle without vaccum

Its got to be in the plenim, not much point in knowing what the boost is anywhere other than the plenim unless you are looking for a pressure drop.

On a GTS4 its about a 4 hour job to change the clutch, never had to change any seals and depending on the type of gearbox oil it could be up to and over $100 for the oil.

Only failier I know of is a guy who built his own motor, constantly over reved it and ran it lean, threw a rod.

Sorry, Queensland

Is a bit small Joel, but we ran a 10 with a .63 housing and it made power hard to 7000

Hi, Just wanting to make a purchase from "Rex O" and with all the money going missing lately I thought I'd just make sure I am dealing with a reputable person. He has given me these details: Rex Oakman, Mr Turbo Australia, 206 Banyula Drive, Queensland, mobile 0412460727. Can anyone confirm these details and that this guy is genuine. He seems like an on to it, nice guy but $$ is on the line here, Thanks in advance, Robbie

A stock gasket is fine. twice that power can be made with a stock gasket if the tune is right.

Hi, Sydney kid had explained it as well as anyone could I think. As you are adamint about boost pressure rather than power levels try this: Stock RB25det bottom end. Minor port work, VCT disabled and adjustable cam gears fitted, different cams, tubular exhaust manifold, Custom T4 style turbo, external wastegate, custom side mount plenim, plenty of fuel supply and good tuning, AV gas, 22lbs boost, 335rwkw in a circuit car, reliable. Rob

Oh sorry, and you'll need an inlet system, we have a new range out now for RB20 / R32 and R33 RB25 / RB30 twin cam etc.

2fardown and Steve, its good for us to finally prove you don't need a huge checkbook to run 10's. An identicle bare engine to the one we run is NZ$3500 for a 2wd and NZ$4500 for a 4wd, this includes our "not yet disclosed" tricks to keep it all together. You then just add a turbo NZ$2000, and injectors. Cheaper than a rebuild on a RB26, lots more torque, more power and if you pop it its probably only going to cost 2-3k to fix it......Rob

Oh, and Steve, we've driven a 1000km round trip to a dyno comp, won it and got 10km/l fuel milage on the road, reliability just has not been an issue at over 500 engine kw

Steve, 7200rpm, Peak torque is all in by 3200rpm and it just flat lines all the way accross the graph. It is unreal on the road. Nail it in 4th at 3000rpm and it just snots away HARD. If you go to near the top of the page you see a link to an old dyno graph where we made 342rwkw @ 5000rpm and then the clutch let go, now we go over 400rwkw by 5500rpm with more low down torque than a good V8, it really is any gear, any speed, just pulls.... Thanks for flying the flag DAMSLO, your 2 year old stock internaled RB25det race engine will be due for a freshen up soon, just keep it under that 8000rpm limit I put on it and it should be due maybe in another 2 seasons??? What did you end up winding out of that?? 330rwkw ????.......Rob