RIPS

Hi, The R33 style head will not bolt straight on but as described above, it is not a big deal to make it work with mods to the water and oil ports. The girdle I make is purely an adapter plate to enable us to run 4wd RB30's. For 2wd we have made 500rwhp with stock blocks, no problems. With 4wd and totally stock RB30e internals we make 600rwhp and run a 10.20 @ 134mph in a GTS4. Once you sort out the mods to the head (and a few other things which people have missed on this thread) it is a straight forward swap.........Rob

we run a switch on the 4wd fuse under the dash, works fine. switch it off, rear wheel drive for burnout, switch it on 1.45 60fts.

Pretty hard to get an engine to idle without vaccum

Its got to be in the plenim, not much point in knowing what the boost is anywhere other than the plenim unless you are looking for a pressure drop.

On a GTS4 its about a 4 hour job to change the clutch, never had to change any seals and depending on the type of gearbox oil it could be up to and over $100 for the oil.

Only failier I know of is a guy who built his own motor, constantly over reved it and ran it lean, threw a rod.

Sorry, Queensland

Is a bit small Joel, but we ran a 10 with a .63 housing and it made power hard to 7000

Hi, Just wanting to make a purchase from "Rex O" and with all the money going missing lately I thought I'd just make sure I am dealing with a reputable person. He has given me these details: Rex Oakman, Mr Turbo Australia, 206 Banyula Drive, Queensland, mobile 0412460727. Can anyone confirm these details and that this guy is genuine. He seems like an on to it, nice guy but $$ is on the line here, Thanks in advance, Robbie

A stock gasket is fine. twice that power can be made with a stock gasket if the tune is right.

Hi, Sydney kid had explained it as well as anyone could I think. As you are adamint about boost pressure rather than power levels try this: Stock RB25det bottom end. Minor port work, VCT disabled and adjustable cam gears fitted, different cams, tubular exhaust manifold, Custom T4 style turbo, external wastegate, custom side mount plenim, plenty of fuel supply and good tuning, AV gas, 22lbs boost, 335rwkw in a circuit car, reliable. Rob

Oh sorry, and you'll need an inlet system, we have a new range out now for RB20 / R32 and R33 RB25 / RB30 twin cam etc.

2fardown and Steve, its good for us to finally prove you don't need a huge checkbook to run 10's. An identicle bare engine to the one we run is NZ$3500 for a 2wd and NZ$4500 for a 4wd, this includes our "not yet disclosed" tricks to keep it all together. You then just add a turbo NZ$2000, and injectors. Cheaper than a rebuild on a RB26, lots more torque, more power and if you pop it its probably only going to cost 2-3k to fix it......Rob

Oh, and Steve, we've driven a 1000km round trip to a dyno comp, won it and got 10km/l fuel milage on the road, reliability just has not been an issue at over 500 engine kw

Steve, 7200rpm, Peak torque is all in by 3200rpm and it just flat lines all the way accross the graph. It is unreal on the road. Nail it in 4th at 3000rpm and it just snots away HARD. If you go to near the top of the page you see a link to an old dyno graph where we made 342rwkw @ 5000rpm and then the clutch let go, now we go over 400rwkw by 5500rpm with more low down torque than a good V8, it really is any gear, any speed, just pulls.... Thanks for flying the flag DAMSLO, your 2 year old stock internaled RB25det race engine will be due for a freshen up soon, just keep it under that 8000rpm limit I put on it and it should be due maybe in another 2 seasons??? What did you end up winding out of that?? 330rwkw ????.......Rob

Hey, thanks for the positive comments. Sydney kid, I wish I had 1/2 the stuff on your list. To clarify a couple. Started with a totally stock, unmodified GTS4 done 150,000km, weight 1450kg. Have done NO suspension work. Have done NO wheel alignment, just what it had, probably not even close to ideal for drags. Have No torque split controler, just stock set up Grabbed a 300,000km RB30e shortblock, did NOT balance it, did NOT crack test anything, just cleaned it, put new rings and bearings ONLY, NO mods to pistons or rods, NO shot peening etc. Got a 120,000 RB25de engine, pulled the head off, did NOT touch it, just prepared the head gasket face, NO o-ringing on block or head, bolted it all up with the stock s/hand bolts and a stock RB25 head gasket. C/R 8.3 Added a R.I.P.S 4wd adapter and put on the stock RB20det 4wd sump/diff assm. Used a R.I.P.S steel flywheel and a s/hand tilton tripple plate clutch kit. Totally stock gearbox/driveshafts/diffs/cv's etc Runs a GTR plenim adapted to the RB25de manifold and a VH45 throttle body. Runs a single fogger nozzle with 60hp jets Only weight reduction was the passengers door and the passengers seat and rear seats. NO other weight reduction, still has A/C, stereo, carpets, full dash, heater, console etc Runs a stock RB20det exhaust manifold with a t4 running 1.5 bar with a 45mm progate. Runs a stock GTR fuel pump and a small external pump for the NOS. runs 6 X 550cc injectors only. Runs quick time 8.5 inch tyres on the rear only, 235-45-18's on the front, problem is keeping the front wheels on the ground so don't need front quick times yet right? ran a 1.508 60 ft time. I just got sick of all the "so called experts" who just happen to run big retail shops, telling everyone that you can't do this and you can't do that, even had 1 real well known shop tell a friend that he needed a $20k engine package to do a high 12 in a GTS4! They just wanted to tick boxes in a cataloge, take your money and do no development at all. I thought 12's on stock bits would be easy enough, then we went for 11's, now we're doing mid 10's and we have NO issues with the engine being reliable or undrivable, in fact it is so strong in the mid range on the road it's not funny. I'm sure we can get a 9 out of the same motor with out touching it, and our new car will run the same engine with stock internals and that WILL run low 9's, high 8's...........TRUE P.S. wind up your bits, if they pop, it's not going to break the bank....My 2c

Sorry , that was 680nm at the engine......doh

We did use a 60hp of gas for the 10.5. I havn't got any recent dyno prinouts but last time out it made just on 400rwkw @ 5000rpm and about 680ft lbs of torque at the engine with 60hp of gas. We had a singe T4 on a stock exhaust manifold, 3 inch pipe, 45mm progate. Gotta get this thing a diet....BAD

Why do you need to spend alot of money to do a 10? The long motor used costs around $4500 all up outright and thats a 4wd engine which costs more than a 2wd. What have these guys with GTR's doing 10's find they are breaking?

You don't need forged pistons or rods. The car we're talking about runs a stock gearbox etc and weighs more than a rwd GTSt and we don't use slicks . I think our new car thats lighter should run low 9's with stock internals on street tyres, is that sooooooooo hard to believe?? What do you think might fail?

R31Nismoid, Totally stock RB30e bottom end (300,000km motor with rings and bearings only), totally stock RB25de head, stock cams, stock cam gears, stock valve springs, stock head gasket, NO porting, stock RB20det exhaust manifold, stock gearbox and driveshafts, stock diffs, pump gas, DOT tyres. And you need more than an average of 300rwkw to crack at 10 in a 1450kg GTS4 I think.

Na, just a stock RB25de head, no porting, std cams, std valve springs etc.

Well hicks, have done a 10.5 @ 127mph with 100% stock bits and we detuned it to get traction to do that. Just wondering if anyone else was doing simila thats all. Should pull a 9 when run on a prepped track and with the car stripped. When we did the 10.5 it still had carpets, standard seats, A/C, stereo etc. Why does everyone seem to be scared to wind up stock parts???

Sorry I was meaning with a RB25/26/30

Just intrested to see who's done what times with stock parts and if you all think its possible to run well into the nines with stock bottom end, stock head etc.......