ANVIL

Need rb25 specific specs and procedures or if someone can confirm rb26 is the same R33 guide is what i am using and my rb is an s1. It only shows rb26dett short block procedures

Bump Need them so i can drop my short block to a builder to be assembled.

for some reason i always thought this info was in the fsm i have but just tried to look for it and its not. i want to prep myself with what exactly needs to be done when i reassembly my block. no i am not doing it alone but i just want to be prepared and have all the specs/tolerances ect available as well. wanting pretty much all the info for the crank/rods/pistons to be replaced. thanks The fsm i have only shows rb26dett, are the procedures and specs the same for rb25det short block?

Can a mod edit to say hybrid performance or any aftermarket low mount

Bump will consider similar manifolds

Looking for hybrid performance rb25det low mount manifold http://www.hybridperformance.co.nz/hp/product.php?id_product=83 Must be willing to ship to USA. Please PM or email [email protected]

First plug i believe i figured out. Both wires go to alternator. 2nd plug still clueless, beginning to think its extra and i dont need it. But i still want to know why its there and what it is supposed to be for. Looking at the s13 lower harness layout im guessing the 4 wires should go to exhaust gas temp sensor and the power steering oil pressure switch? Both of which i dont have connections for on this harness and i dont think are used on rb Any input?

Longshot but any wiring gurus help me out.... this harness was fully functional before pulled with the exception of my reverse lights not working. Just ugly and open exposed wires Confused on a couple things This plug. Has 2 thick wires one white and the other black. Both go to eyelet style ends. Pretty sure one for starter the other for alternator.... which is which? This plug. Has 4 wires coming from it. Main colors being red, black, brown and yellowish. Idk if i damaged or cut when i removed it but the red, black and brown wires dont go to anything currently and the yellow one goes thru the harness to another plug that has 2 wires, the other being black If anyone have any idea to why my reverse lights never worked please lmk what i can check to eliminate this harness as a possibility. Kinda where i am right now. Need these then i can reloom everything.

I put them together as best as I can figure... They are the same colors. I just want to be sure becauseim trying to diag a no start

so my situation is 41, 42, 51, and 51 are cut by my ecu plug. 41 and 42 are both the same color and 52 and 51 are the same color. i just want to re connect them the right way, if i have them switched would it matter? how can i be sure its right? looks like the just go and re connect from the diagrams?

yes that helps, but doesnt show where 52 goes? according to this there is 4 wires, which is what i have...

So my wiring harness was cut by the main ecu plug and i'm a little confused on the crank angle wiring. There is 4 wires i remember correctly pin 52, 51, 41 and 42? 2 red and 2 green. Where do these wires go to? How do I ensure I rewire it correctly? Really need this figured out...

got ripped off on another forum... someone please help! need one ASAP, shoot me an email!

Bump, ttt

looking for a stock rb25det s1 exhaust cam. not sure if other series would work, if you know please post up and let me know. seller would have to be willing to ship to USA. please email me if you can help me out. [email protected] thanks

thanks. the only thing that sucks is that its flat. if u have time, can u do one with the valve cover off so i can see in relation to the cam position where the key goes?

guess its time to take it in to a shop... 2 weeks and still no clue

that would really help out, thanks! and what do u think about the condition of my CAS? or maybe can someone explain it a little more clear than the fsm pic i showed? i was checking pins to earth (gnd)

dang, i posted this on 4 different forums and nobody has any kinda clue

can some one post up some good pics of the exhaust camshaft where the CAS goes and also a pic of the inside of their CAS? the key on my camshaft broke off and i need to be 100% sure on how to put it on... im suspecting something with the CAS because it was the only thing i actually touched before i got this no start condition...

good news and bad news. good news is i dont think my valves are bent, i did a compression test last night and im sitting at about 155 on all cylinders. bad news is i still dont know wtf my car wont start....

double check all the idler and tensioner washers per fsm. mine was doing that and i had the washers in the wrong order

it snapped off... but im pretty sure i put it in right, i tried a bunch of times and im pretty sure i got it in properly... now im wondering if my valves are ok... going to do a compression test when i get off work.

so i think i figured out whats wrong with my car... when working on it, i noticed a small rip in my timing belt. there must have either been some debris in the timing cover or i accidently grazed it or something while working on my engine. i immidately put the crank to TDC, and the cam gears were off by 4 teeth. i put a new belt on and re-timed it. still wouldnt start. would idling less than 2 min, and doing cranks be enough to bend valves? im really worried i bent my valves...

worked on the car last night, basically started over as if i never checked anything. also put the battery on a battery charger prior to all this to eliminate that and make sure it was fully charged. checked fuel pressure, and injectors. tried with lowering and also raising fuel pressure confirmed spark double checked coil and battery grounds, also added an extra ground from the intake manifold to the chasiss double checked and re-tightend all intake manifold bolts and hoses and anything that can cause a vacuum leak double checked all i/c piping and couplers tried with my power fc datalogit base map, my orginal tuned map from last year, and a new map for this year compensating for my new injectors tried re-aligning the CAS several times tried with maf/afm plugged in and unplugged checked and re-gapped (0.8mm) spark plugs some flooding after trying all those things so i pulled all the plugs and left them off over night. have a new set of plugs (NGK V-Power BKR5E-11) ready to go in today after work, also going to spray some air into the cylinders to make sure theres no flooding. and basically thats where im at...