Cosa

Great pics!

was a great drive up the pass. +1 for pics

So south coast meeting at caltex or maccas?

In! meeting up with the south coast lads

Im in :)

pics of boot trim?

Do you have part number + pic of part number to confirm they are N1? Very interested as long as they have steel wheels

Hmm interesting, i think i read a thread while i was searching where an R33 Rb25 compressor was being installed in an RB20. That is assuming of course that the Stagea and R33 have a different AC compressor

Did a search, didn't come up with anything conclusive. Does anyone know if all RB AC compressors are the same? Are they all interchangeable? Could i put an RB25 AC compressor into an RB26 or vice versa

Took it in to the mechanic, clutch master is gone as well. Need to get a new one. I've read in several threads that its possible to use a clutch master from a Y60(GQ) Patrol or from an RB25 GTS-t/pathfinder Seems like the patrol master is only good for the 32 gts-t, anyone know if it fits a 32 GTR? Part numbers would be useful if anyone knows them.

I read an article in HPI where they tested an OEM catback against after market on an R32 GTR with mild mods. Had 3" from turbos to the cat back. In the article they CLAIMED they made 2kw more with the OEM.

I wanted to do that, wasn't to sure if it would do any more harm than good. Good to know its not such a big problem. Cheers guys

nope, i crack it when its down, close it then the peddle gets pulled up. When i pump the peddle the fluid in the reservoir moves up and down, but it doesn't seem to be pumping it with any pressure to the slave. I just tried to bleed it using a hand pump, still no go. I'm starting to think it might be the master, but i'm not to keen on pulling it out and taking it apart to check.

As title states i'm having some issues bleeding the clutch on my 32 GTR. The slave seized up so i installed a new one but i'm having problems bleeding it. Ive read the sticky and the user manual but to no avail. There is no splitter in my system just a line directly from the master to the slave. The previous owner had changed the clutch, i'm assuming he had the splitter removed. From the guides i have read they require the master to be bled, then the splitter, then finally the slave. Problem is my master doesn't have a bleed nipple, and i don't have a splitter, so that just leaves the slave. Ive attempted to bleed it by filling the master, pushing the peddle all the way down, cracking the nipple, then pulling the peddle up. This doesn't create any pressure in the system. I'm stumped

Excellent thread, nice to see people posting useful info. Not a big fan of the R33 shape, but damn your car is sexy! Keep up the good work

still have injectors for sale?

2001 Kia Rio Hatch for sale Condition: Excellent Price: $5500 NEG, MAKE ME AN OFFER Location: Wollongong, NSW Kms: 103,xxx Rego: July 2010 Serviced every 5000km (oil + filter) Recently changed spark plugs, ignition leads New brake pads Female owner/driver 500km+ per tank This is a cheap daily, long rego, excellent condition, lots of room since its the hatch, back seats fold down, cd, aircon etc. Need it gone, one to many cars, no where to keep it. Will get pics up ASAP Contact Dan on 0401472321

Problem has been narrowed down to TPS. Tried to remove top screw on the TPS and it snapped going to have to drill and tap it out, hopefully the bottom screw dosn't snap. I am hoping that adjusting the TPS will solve the issue. I have also read that after having injectors cleaned it is good practice to reset the ECU. Is this true? Would this affect my remap? Currently have a SPL Computer Brain by Central 20 racing team in there. Tried to look it up, couldnt find much about it.

Yes, they replaced the o-rings. The only reason they were taken out was due to a leaking injector. I will try what you mentioned, and hopefully i can find the problem.

It cant be dirty injectors since they have been cleaned. I also noticed something else, the car idles at around 1100-1200 rpm, from what i understand this should be about 900. since the car starts fine if i give it a little throttle i was thinking it might be a possible TPS problem? I have also read that once you have your injectors cleaned, re-setting the ecu is a good idea.

I had the injectors and fuel rail cleaned, and starter motor rebuilt about a month ago. This problem started once i had that work done, however i might not have noticed since the starter motor was on its way, so it wouldnt crank first go anyway.

Having a few problems with the car starting after being driven. Cold starts first go, after being driven, even upto 5-6 hours later, it will not crank over first go, need to play with the peddle a little or just keep cranking till it starts. Ive done a few searches, from what i can find, i think it might be one of these: ignition module, coil packs, or coil pack loom. I changed the plugs about a week ago, they were very clean, the motor is running pretty lean at the moment. I have also been told it might be o2 sensor, however it's not misfiring when on boost, and hasnt showed the signs of o2 failure from what i have read. Am i on the right track with what i mentioned above? The car is reasonably stock, it has had a remap, running 14psi, 044 fuel pump, full 3inch exhaust + hi flow cat, adjustable cam gears, and pods.

I recently had my starter motor rebuilt, along with the cleaning of my injectors/fuel rail. Ever since i got the car back, upon some spirited driving, i noticed black fluid on the garage floor. It didn’t have a very oily texture, so I’m assuming its transfer case fluid. I took a closer look, it drips down the front of the gearbox. Is this something i need to be concerned about? Does the transfer case have an overflow? I thought i might also add that i have the torque split controller, however i do not set it any higher than 5 or 6 out of 10. For my day to day driving i turn it all the way down to 0. I also checked the reservoir in the boot, it is overfilled by approximately 1-2cm.

Ill take a pair