SSHatch

Oil smoke is usually blue coloured. Water or coolant is white... What I dont understand is how it managed to rain inside your cooler... Thats some pretty damn heavy rain to get in there.

Got on to Brad. Little bit more than $60 but he had one so thats good. Will give you a call in regards the seat belt bit shortly. I am in Launnie pretty regular these days so should be able to grab it off you soon. Unless you want to PM a price and I will give you a buzz the day before I head through to arrange a suitable time to meet up??

As it says! After one or a set of standard GTR Injectors as I have one leaking. Please no "just get bigger one's" suggestions as I plan to in the near future but simply need to get the car up and running for a leavers dinner this weekend. I also need the seat-belt escutcheon in the rear pillar trim as mine was broken by poor repairs carried out by a workshop. I have a picture of the part I am talking about. PM with contact details.

So now the next question is how to I get in there and find out what was done to it?? I think the rev limit is obvious but I would like to know just out of curiosity what else has been altered. What is required to find this out?? Or is it not possible??

Hell mine was showing 1/4 tank the other week before I headed down a long windy downhill section of road. Bout half way down the fuel light came on and the gauge was right under the empty mark. Got to the bottom and headed along the open hwy again and low and behold was back up just past 1/4. Next uphill section it went up to 1/2. They are as they are called, a gauge. Only an estimate of whats left in the tank. Yeah as Terry says, some new cars are extremely accurate but 32 and 33 Skylines are far from new.

Its hard to tell from the picture but with a bit of manipulation its possible to see where the wires from the brown plug have been spliced into the loom and then taped up. Got a few pics of the inside of the ECU. The number on top of it is "hn27c256ag-10" Did a Google search but only really came up with suppliers and the like and not a lot of info that was of much use to me. May have made sense to somebody else but not to me. To me it definitely looks like the chip in the lower right hand corner is a plug in. It does not appear to be soldered to the board but plugs into a socket. Not sure if this is of any help to anybody. As for the engine being built to withstand 9k daily. It wont be getting that and it does not even look as though it has been built. Its got some new inlet gaskets and stuff but does not look like its been apart for a full engine build. If the brown thing is just a connector as it looks then I believe that I wont have any issues plugging in a Vipec ECU. As for the black box that everything should connect to in regards the alarm, I believe its the clear case thing as there is nothing esle in there unless its super well hidden and after inspecting the wiring work I seriously doubt that.

Cheers for that Chris. I thought you were going to say something like that. I have just been out chasing wires through the car that change colour about five times between the relay and the door switch for example. So basically I have ascertained that what I have picture's of is the alarm system but still no results on the lack of speed cut and rev limiter. Anybody got any ideas on that side of things for me cause I cant see anything. Is it possible to alter the standard ECU without being physically able to spot it. ie: no daughter boards etc.

So got in a pulled a few bits out to access these other mystery components under the dash. Took a few pics to see if anybody recognises them. There is the circuit board thing in the clear case, relay contacts is the black box and the clear thing with LED in it flashes pretty patterns when the button is pressed but not much else that I could see. I did also notice today that two of the three wires going into the LED box thing have broken away from the circuit board. Closer shot of these two. The only real number I could make out was "DE1452" The only other distinguishing feature was the Directed Electronics Incorporated Logo and name on both of them. The wiring to the ECU. That brown "thing" has been patched into the loom. It also has a Hornet 718M alarm fitted. I have no idea how it works as the only time its made a noise is when I had a flat battery after leaving the interior light on while it was locked up in the garage. There is no key-fob or switch that I can see. It simply made a chirp noise when I disconnected the battery to charge it. I am not real bothered by this stuff but would like to know what it is and if I have to remove it all before I buy my new ECU. I don't want this stuff interfering with the new one. Any help muchly appreciated.

Did the injectors eventually sell or are they still available??? If available please PM number so I can contact in regards sale.

Punctuation kinda helps so what you asking makes sense... So your not sure if you have blown a piston but you have checked the rings and they are OK??? Forgot to look at the piston while you were checking the rings?? Your also not sure if its the coil pack but at the same time you have checked them and they are OK??? Maybe go back and re-post exactly what your problem is and what you are trying to find out but this time put it in proper sentences so it easily understood.

Silly queston but have to ask??? Have you removed the clevis pin that attches it to the clutch pedal?? According to the manual thats about all there is to it. Setting it all correctly for reassembly is another story though.

In the fuse panel under the bonnet... (Mine is fresh from Japan and still shows which one is for the 4WD) and also fuse in the fuse panel. Quick search on here should pretty much cover which fuse is which. Easy option though is to simply run a test light over all the fuses and see if any are blown and may as well replace them while you are going. Only gotta touch the small sections in the back of each fuse and see that the light lights up both sides. Should take all of 5 minutes including getting the test light.

Checked on the NisTune site and it does not appear to have anything that resembles their boards. Will be ripping a heap of wiring out this weekend to install the new stereo so will take some shots of the other miscellaneous crap under the dash and see if I can get any part numbers etc..

This NISTUNE daughterboard thing... any idea on what it looks like and how it is fitted to the car?? Been searching and found out a bit about it but no pictures. This could explain some of the extra bits and pieces I have found under the dash. Small circuit boards, little LED indicators and a couple of little black boxes that have been wired intyo the looms.

Even in the workshop manual it says the same thing. Its only a given torque based on the size and thread of the stud and nut. Wheel nut torque: 98 - 118nm, 10 - 12 kg-m, 72 - 87 ft-lb

Any water you can see in there will not prevent the motor from turning over. That's not to say that you don't have a cylinder or two full of water as well. Did the engine turn at all?? Did it turn and then make a clunk noise?? If you are asking questions like this and checking your head-gasket with a screwdriver then I seriously suggest you put down the tools and step away from the motor vehicle before you do any further damage and cost yourself a whole lot more than its already going to cost. Tow it to a workshop and get a quote. Its not a job for beginners. As for opening the radiator cap when you have just overheated your car??? There is a reason why they have a two stage release. The first click is to release the pressure so the cap does not fly off and have the coolant instantly boil and spurt out of the radiator causing serious burns to anybody who is nearby and unlucky enough to be splashed.

Well nothing looks to far from normal there. Even the screws appeared as if they had not been undone before. There is a lot of patching going on in the loom just before the ECU though. Looks like somebody has tapped into about ten different wires for some reason and there is now another multi-plug wired in just before the ECU connector. Not real sure what it all does though as it simply appears to tap into different circuits and then join the signal into other circuits. Any other suggestions as to why the limiter is so high and the car appears to no longer have the 180 speed cut activated??

As the title asks, is there a way to tell if a standard ECU has been re-flashed at some stage? Only reason I ask is because I checked mine when I first picked up the GTR and it's a standard looking Nissan ECU. No big deal, not worried as I plan on changing it anyway. So I have been driving the car and noticed a few irregularities in the way it performs. Nothing bad just pops and cackles that other Skylines don't exhibit with standard tunes. The main reason for suspecting something is up occurred today out in the backwoods on my way home. Having a play where the speed limit changes from 60kph to 110kph on the hwy so nailed it in 2nd and watched what happened. Was expecting the rev limiter to cut in around the 8,000 - 8,200 mark but the needle almost hit 9,000 rpm. Figured that's more than enough for a supposedly stock engine and quickly selected another gear. I have since checked the tacho against two others I have here that are known to be accurate and the standard tacho is almost spot on in its reading. So the only thing I could think of is that maybe the ECU has been re-flashed and the limiter altered for and ridiculously high number or removed altogether... Any other suggestions or is it possible to tell if the ECU has been altered???

CV Joints are not the kind of thing you can diagnose by looking at them. Especially if the boots are still intact. It does sound a lot like the issue though. If it goes click click click while turning sharply and then goes away when straightening up I would be getting it looked at by a mechanic in your area. But that's just me...

Still going with vacuum leak somewhere or check the wiring to the O2 Sensors. See if its still plugged in or if its been damaged in some way. Check the breather lines on the rear of the rocker covers. Could have been broken when the engine was laid back to remove the transmission. Just trying to think what else is around the back of the engine that may have been damaged while the box was being removed. I would be grabbing a torch and just eyeballing each wire and tube along their full length and checking for breaks in wires, wear marks that could be shorting or vacuum lines that may have been pinched or split accidentally.

You say that your Dad checked them and they looked fine... What exactly did he do to check them?? Its not normally something that you can see when they bugger up. Is the noise the same both directions ie: left and right?? Is it more noticeable turning in one direction? Does it get worse with a bit more speed on board? Does it do it going in reverse?

Noise is pretty constant under most conditions. Does get a little more audible when turning but nowhere near what would be expected from a CV Joint (which is "usually" more of a clicking noise from experience) or a wheel bearing. I should also point out here, not to be a smartass or anything but so that people realise is all, I am a mechanic by trade and have been involved in the car industry for 10 years or more now. Not saying I know everything but so that people know they arent trying to help a complete noob here. Just somebody who has done all the normal workshop stuff and is still a bit bamboozled by this particular noise. And I dont particularly wanna throw heaps of my hard earned at this hoping to fix it. In all honesty it sounds like the kind of noise you hear when the brake pads are worn down to the backing plates. Its real distinct metal on metal grinding kind of noise, not really anything like you would expect a bearing to sound like and doesnt alter like wheel bearing and the like do when you load them up going round corners etc which is why I asked about the LH driveshaft support bearing. It very well may be a bearing but in all my experience a bearing sounds different. Keep the suggestions rolling guys, I am pretty lost at the moment and looking into everything you suggest.

I'm Sorry... Why put in a bit more negative and upset a perfectly good wheel alignment in the hope that it will tuck the rim inside the guard. Why upset the handling, possibly making the vehicle horrible to drive and trash a perfectly good set of expensive tyres?? And I don't believe that lowering the car by 10mm will effect the camber by that much. It will alter it but I don't believe it will be obviously noticeable to the naked eye.

I suppose the CV theory has some merit. That could explain why the noise is heard with the car on the ground and not up in the air with the suspension dangling. The angle of the shafts would alter dramatically and could mask or alter the noise. Pretty sure the boots themselves are all OK but that's not to say there isn't an issue lurking behind them. Might head out to the garage and investigate that option a bit further. Oh and Dan... Wodonga. What a town. I spent a few years there in the late 80's. Had a hell of a time. Still got family there today. Must head back and visist again see how much its changed this time around.

Wasn't sure which section to post this in so figured I would start here and see where we get to. When I picked up the GTR a couple of weeks ago I noticed a grinding type noise coming from the LHF corner. Didn't pay it too much attention at the time as I simply wanted to get out of Melbourne in one piece. Got back to Tassie and took the car into work and threw it up on the hoist to have a look but there is nothing obvious that would be making the noise. Its a rotational noise, occurs pretty much as soon as the car starts moving. Its not affected by brake application, clutch in or out, in gear or out of gear. Initially I was thinking wheel bearing but I have never heard one make a noise almost immediately the car starts moving. Were talking simply rolling forward down a slight slope is enough. The noise doesn't have that deep graunch type noise that you would expect to hear with a wheel bearing either. It sounds more like something rubbing against a rotating component. This led me believe that the massive lips on the rotors could have been the cause where they were rubbing against the pads. Took them off last night and machined the lips off the rotors but the noise is still there. With the car on the hoist and spinning the wheels by hand the noise does not seem to be there which makes me think again that its a bearing of some kind and needs the load of the car on it to produce the noise. I also thought it could be the support bearing on the LH drive-shaft where it passes through the sump. My only issue here is that I have not heard of many of these bearing's failing on any cars. Spoke with the guys at our Mitsubishi workshop and they agreed that its possible but they have had very little issue with the Magnas that run a similar setup as the bearing is mainly there for support and does not take that much load. So any suggestions as to what it could be. As far as I know I have checked most rotating components to make sure they are not contacting something that may cause this noise. Anybody had anything similar?? Suggestions?? I could just throw in a new wheel bearing and drive-shaft support bearing and hope it fixes it but its a lot of money in parts for a guess.