TurbostyleR

Damn Kenny! You would have to have some decent coin to get a M coupe let alone having the ballz to get it doing ~135mph trap speeds! RESPECT!!!

yeah I have been told there are some fairly substaintial gains that can be had from SR20DET heads being ported. The first thing i did with my built motor was to get 1mm oversized exhaust valves which would help a little in the flow department - as I was too scared to lose any low down torque from major head porting lol... Thanks once again for your help Daniel...

Thanks Daniel for the info - really interesting read! Just out of interests sake have you done any flow testing on the SR20DET head? If so how did that go?

lol - are you on drugs mate? hehehe In mainshaft im assuming you mean input shaft? Bah f**k it, for 400 bucks an SR20 box ill keep on breaking them and see how i go...

Hi all, Im looking at upgrading my 5spd gearbox to either an RB25 gearbox or an RB26 gearbox... Now here is what I know: I know i need to cut and shut the bellhousing on the RB25 box for it to fit my SR20DET motor. If I was going to go the RB26 box I also need to cut off the transfer case. Here is what I dont know: After I cut the transfer case off the RB26 box will it be physically the same size as an RB25 box? Are the RB25 and RB26 boxes the same length and girth? Does the R32 RB26 box use a push or a pull style clutch? Are the bellhousings the same on the RB25 and RB26 gearboxes? Thanks, Ahmed

i have a pretty good idea on why mine is weaping oil - the place that decked my head is different to the place that decked my block, and im pretty sure the place that decked the head would not have gone to the "ra" that was required - as they normally do machining for normal motors, not really high performance alloy motors such as the SR20, RB26 etc... Im going to hit the place where mine is leaking oil with a bit of carby cleaner/degreaser and a air gun and see if i can use some silicon around the place where its weaping and see if that will stop the leak - sure its a bit dodgy and crude, but its on the drain back side of the motor so im not to concerned...

thanks proengines i am too of the opinion that the deck surfaces are too rough and its interesting to hear that the sr20s are low on the exhaust side and pull up near the headbolts... Ill see how i go with this headgasket, if the leak gets worse then ill end up pulling the head off and sticking in a composite head gasket and seeing if that will take 30psi and ~500rwhp in an SR20 motor - as long as it doesnt knock it should be fine... just a quick question proengines - how would you get a MLS gasket to seal properly on an SR20?

nah its too late for this tomei head gasket... stuff it ill just see how this leak keeps going, if it gets any worse then ill end up having to replace it.... :S

My tomei headgasket leaks! Im totally pissed off about it, I didnt use any coppercoat on it as i thought the black coating on the headgasket would be good enough for it to seal but i was wrong... This is on an SR20DET motor and i have a slight leak between the head and the block on the exhaust side between cylinders 3 and 4... I have been tempted to take the head off and clean the surfaces again and coat them with coppercoat, but i dont think you can reuse tomei gromet style headgaskets...

I can vouch for these tires they hook up bloody good on the street and actually stuffed my clutch on the track cause of the traction - and thats without doing a skid to warm them up!!! last wednesday i ran a 12.1@121mph 60 footing in the 1.9s - not that great, but the clutch was letting go off the line so i couldnt do much about it the tires didnt spin at all off the line...and thats in a 380rwhp-400rwhp S13 silvia... using 255 60 16s MT ET streets...

sold thanks for the interest

Hi, I have an MSD DIS4 for sale. Suits any 4,6, or 8 cylinder Distributorless Ignition Systems. It is used but in excellent condition and comes with two tach adaptors. Features include two step rev limit, two step ignition retard (for nitrous it can automatically reduce ignition timing so you dont have to change your timing maps), intergrated kill switch just to name a few of the goodies this thing does... Located in Brisbane, please phone 0415433286 for any further details. Asking $450. Thanks, Ahmed

Series 2 RB25 crank angle sensor perfect working order - $150 RB25NEO top feed injectors (aprox 390cc) excellent upgrade for RB20 Injectors with rail - $300 Located in Brisbane, will ship interstate at buyers expense. Please contact me on 0415433286. Thanks, Ahmed

i am pretty firm on the price - i think its fairly fair...

Hi all, I have a RB25DET S2 crank angle sensor for sale. Its in perfect working condition and im selling it as i dont need it anymore. Located in Brisbane QLD (northside) Please contact me via phone or txt on 0415433286 as i dont know when i am able to check sau again. Thanks, Ahmed

head has been sold!

head is partially sold...

alrighty after taking the head off the block today, i have found out that no.3 cylinder has a small scratch on the side of the bore... Im assuming its something like 5thou if that, so im pretty sure if you were to give the bores a rehone (which should be done anyway) it should come right out and be fine.

to be honest i havnt seen the bores yet, im assuming that two pistons have cracked a ring land each - i will open up the motor tonight probably and have a looksee and get back to you... hopefully it will just require a re-hone and be right... where abouts are you located?

there is only 1 RB25DET motor - im just splitting the head and block apart for anyone that wants them seperate - the only loom i have is for an R34 RB25DET NEO motor...

Hi guys and gals, i have the following items for sale: Price - Quantity - Description: 500ono 1 x RB25DET complete head of a Series 2 R33GTST 300ono 1 x RB25DET complete short motor with 2 pistons that are stuffed 500ono 1 x R34 GTST COMPLETE wiring loom - the loom comes with the coil pack loom as well (no coil packs included) - this is almost brand new in condition also comes with the positive ignition loom from the car. 250ono 1 x set of 6 RB25DET NEO inectors - these are top feed and in excellent condition 250ono 1 x RB25DET NEO inlet plenum minus injectors - includes throttle body and all sensors + stock R34 NEO BOV and induction pipe. 150ono 1 x RB25DET CAS (crank angle sensor) from a Series 2 R33 GTST 250ono 1 x R34 GTST Stagea sump + diff I am located in Brisbane, and I will ship any parts out to interstate buyers at their expense. Reason for sale is that these are the left over parts from a conversion i have completed and I dont need them anymore. If you have any questions feel free to pm me or contact me on 0415433286 - and yes i will seperate parts or put parts together and work out deals for multiple parts purchases. Thanks, Ahmed

Hi, Currently one of my mates had a Series 2 RB25DET motor in his car that melted 2 pistons so we have gone out and bought an RB25DET from an R34 GTST to replace it. We only got the long motor and coil packs, so we swapped the S2 plenum and turbo onto the new motor (along with all the oil pressure switches) and got everything in the car again looking exactly the way it was, and we went to start it and there was no spark... My mate runs a microtech and when we cranked it over it had no RPM signal which leads me to beleive that the R34 CAS and the R33 CAS are different and we need to re-wire that as you cant swap them over as the R33 CAS has a star that goes into the cam and the R34 has a half mooned that goes into the cam... Also while doing this the neo coil packs somehow melted themselves (im assuming because the wiring between the R33 and R34 is different) so we are stuck on what do do with the coil packs as the R33 coil packs dont exactly fit the NEO motor... Now my main questions are: - What are the EXACT wiring differences between the R33 and R34 CAS in regards to pins? - What are the EXACT wiring differences between the R33 and R34 coil pack arrangement? And if there is a way to use the R33 coil packs on a R34 motor what is it? Any help will be GREATLY appreciated and thanks for reading a really long post!

Shit hey - i did think you where having me on - but ill try anything i guess to get this thing working for me - i need my hand controller back!

does anyone know what happens if you lock the power fc? Can you still display your vitals like water temp, knock values, injector duty etc?

The hand controller and power fc were purchased together brand new and have run perfectly fine in the past... The car runs perfect - like its still got the old tune in there, so i dont know what the issue could be...