Monsterless

Well it's not the MAF's cause I changed them. After it warms up the idle goes up and down, lean then rich.

Here is the problem, the car starts up with a slightly fast idle around 1150 rpm and smooth, as it warms up the idle starts to get faster as the fuel air ratio goes down (11:1) and then the fuel air ratio goes really lean around (20.6:1) and then the engine slows down. So the fuel air ratio displayed on the wide band goes up and down with the rpm surge: Here is the back ground: The engine was taken out for major overhaul and everything was touched. Throttle bodies were match bored and no the shafts are not leaking air as I tested for that. The throttle stops were all backed off so the butterfly’s seat on the bores in an attempt to get the idle down. Yes I know this is bad but I am trouble shooting. The Air regulator for idle control is electrically disconnected in an attempt to get the idle down. The AAC idle control for the A/C is electrically disconnected in an attempt to get the idle down. There is now no fuel tank canister and the air bleed for it is blocked at the front throttle body. There are no Narrow band O2 sensors in the pipes but I never had them in before the engine was out and I programmed around their absence. There is a wide band but not hooked into the computer. The MAF’s were working fine before I took the engine out but you never know? I have Nistune and can program it but I have gone through it line by line changing values and getting no fix to the problem. Personally I think it is the fuel air ratio is changing for some reason and I am at a loss as to what it is causing it ? I do have some Z32 MAF’s but I have to wait for wiring plugs and silicone hoses to arrive to try that idea out. Is there anyone out there who had something similar happen to them cause this is getting to me?

I'm ni Canada and skylines aren't well known here ! But you should see the faces of the Lamborghini, Turbo Porsche and Ferrari drivers when all they see is the back end of the car. And one Lambo driver rolled his window down at the next light and said "Are those 2 baby seats I see in the back ? I can't believe how fast that Honda is ! " hahahaha Ya they still want to race the Skylines here because they haven't learned to FEAR THEM ! funny too, when 2 skylines roll up to the light they both take off slow and together, to funny. LOL

Compressor surge is like Cancer ! If left untreated it doesn't die right away but takes time and they both are terminal.

I don't know about you guys ? You the attitude that well it sounds great so lets do it more /// For starters the compressor blades would not have equall loading so that induces unbalanced gyroscopic forces 90 degrees in the drirection of rotation, that in laymans terms means at 100,000 rpm the shaft is trying to tear it's self out sideways from the housing. Now that means bearing loads increase and bending moments on the shaft increase. Even if you look at the formula's and simplify it, the force goes up with the square of the speed, look at the speed it's rotating? Golfer know swing faster and hit the ball further, well go figure a hundred thousand rpm or more. You will figure it out in a short enough time ! and we haven't even looked at the unequally loaded blades that are trying to bend off . Yah do it some more !

I gave my "R32" small front driveshaft (propeller shaft) to "The Driveshaft Shop" in assistance in the development of a new replacement front driveshaft. There is really no way to fix the universal joints (crosses) as they are pressed into place and then if you can manage to get it out there is not enough metal in the yoke to put a retainer clip. The Driveshaft Shop will be making a whole new unit which will be stronger than the factory unit. http://www.driveshaftshop.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=r32 The new shaft should be ready for market in a couple of months. Is anyone interested ?

I come from an industry that is all heat related. It has been common practice to put Nickel Antiseize on bolts and pipe threads which are subjected to high temperatures like these and I would include all the exhaust pipe bolts. The nickel antiseize helps to reduce the reduction of nickel in the parent metal (being burnt out) and also acts as a sheering point when undoing the bolts. This is probably the only case where using more is better. Don't us copper coat as it causes galvanic corrosion at elevated temperatures from the copper.

It has to slant also for the intake. It would hit the shock tower because of all the throttle bodies and plenum.

Sorry I only got to this now, , , but yah I had that too and recognised that sound right off

Wow good one, I first thought it was the ignition switch, nice catch !