T88 ON BOARD

SOLD SOLD SOLD.........

PRICE DROP... $650

LOL We could try bash them into some sorta shape that might work??....

Bumpo....

Yeh there an Awesome Bit of gear...Bump...

Bump....Anyone interested?

Hey all ITEM: Bride Seat Rails (Drivers and Passenger side) INFO: These were taken out of a gt-r r32 fitted with Recaro Race Seats. I think there Low Style Rails. CONDITION: Used but good. Both Sides were working fine in the car. TO FIT: GT-R R32 for sure. They may fit other models or cars but i dont know what. PRICE: $300 for both sides WILL NOT SEPARATE!!! LOCATION: Sydney REASON FOR SALE: No use for them.

Hey All... ITEM: APM Factory Carbon Kevlar Intercooler Pipe work INFO: Be Different! These are Unique and Very Light!! They replace the standard rubber pipework. From the Twin turbo pipe to plenum Check Out there website : APM FACTORY CONDITION: BRAND NEW PRICE: These retail for 68,250Yen ($802aus) + Postage. I am Asking $700firm + postage. LOCATION: Sydney REASON FOR SALE: Bought But Never used as they dont work with any of my gtr's set up's

PRICE DROP $600firm

Pm's Replied.. Open to Offers...Want this Gone...

Forgot About This...... Still For sale....Make An Offer

Thanks for the Words Dude...

Thanks for the nice words... Yeh Sat in it a few times when I first got it.... Its comfy but not Bride Seat comfy But if you want a seat that weighs like nothing this is it....

Hey all... ITEM: CARBON FIBRE RACE SEAT INFO: Made By Custom Carbon Components ( http://www.ccubed.com.au/ ) Seat is Carbon Front and Black Back Finish. CONDITION: BRAND NEW TO FIT: Universal PRICE: $650 LOCATION: Sydney REASON FOR SALE: Decided to go with a Kirkey Race seat.

Bump..Surely there is something out there ??

Bump...Forgot About this....Still Looking for one

Pm Sent

Fair Enough People will always have different experiences with anything i guess... Each to there own..I just thought id stick up for the T88's since i use them religiously LOL In my Opinion any high rated turbo 900hp turbo + with a very light gtr + Dogbox or Hollinger + everything upgraded basically!! Will and Should go in the 8's!!! Very important also are correct suspension settings I think 8's are in Nur33 sights for sure!!!!

Not Here for an Argument BUT..... there are some FACTS........ CROYDON WHOLESALERS in NZ ran In the 8's with a T88-34D not GK! in there r32 gt-r (Street tyre record holder at a stage) Garage saurus (Pink) r32 drag car ran 8's and there orange one i think... Alot of Cars i think have run 8's in Japan aswell with T88's.. So the T88H-38GK wouldn't have a problem if the 3rd largest of the range has already done it! eg. (T88-34D, T88H-34D,T88H-38GK) Also If you run the larger 22cm2 Exhaust Housing It wont run out of legs thought id mention that for the guys downtalking T88's but the T62r Is a larger turbo

Which one is it? Step 1, 2 or 3 ?

Hey all, I got it listed on Ebay Check it out here: OPTION Feb 1999 Vol.58 VHS Here is a pic of the vid: Listed on ebay Cause i dont know what its worth...Hope thats ok...

Thanks guys... Just wanna add i noticed an easier way for option 1 removing the light with bracket. Only 1 screw needs to come out (Pictured) Also this is why i took out the light to begin with: I need to make up some brackets to hold it in place...Its just sitting in there now Oh and yes the car needs a wash and polish lol....

Hey all, I have Noticed there are no easy/pictured guides to follow when it comes to removing GT-R R33 HEADLIGHTS. I only removed the Passenger side but the whole idea will be the same for the drivers side but will vary in some ways. *** PLEASE NOTE PEOPLE USING OIL COOLERS LOCATED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE INNER GUARD LINING IN THE WHEEL ARCH TO LOCATE LOWER SCREWS *** TOOLS NEEDED: Torch/Light, Screwdriver's, 10mm spanner, 10mm Elbow Spanner, rachet + 10mm and 8mm + Extension STEP 1: Removing the Grill Remove all 5 Clips located on grill and pull towards you to remove the grill (Pictured) **Be carefull not to break the clips** STEP 2: Remove The Two plugs that connect to the rear of the light.(Pictured) STEP 3: Remove the three visible (10mm) Screws that are attached to the headlight. (Pictured) STEP 4: Remove Lower indicator and then remove the plug for it (Pictured) STEP 5: Removing the last screws holding the light in. Using the Gap When the indicator is removed (step 4) you will need to reach up through there to access these screws. There are two ways to remove them. ***My light was not going back in so i removed the light with the bracket*** THE TWO OPTIONS ARE: OPTION 1: Removing light with bracket: TOOLS: 10mm spanner & 10mm Elbow spanner Locate the Two (10mm) Screws (Red Circles) and remove them. Its a bit of a hassle to do but once both are removed the light can come out. ***Be carefull not to break the white plastic clip/spacer*** OPTION 2: Removing light without bracket. TOOLS: 8mm Rachet & extension. Locate the Two (8mm) screws (Blue Circles) and remove them. This will leave the bracket connected to the car. Doing it this way will be easier to put the light back. ALL DONE:

Yeah didn't think of that...For sure they wont have a mobile mandrel machine... I'll work something out

I'll take the plenum PM SENT