3BEPKA

Yes KU 36's are good cheap alternative

Try ebay, last time I checked you could get set of R888 for 1300 delivered from east

Cut the wires going into it

Firstly thanks for your replies fellas. I don't think siren got wet. Yes when it goes off it's only siren, no flashing lights and car doesn't die. It's hard to tell if it detects any problem because we put silent arm and disarm,and indicators only light up for few sec. when disarmed (but not flashing) Battery is cheap one from RAC but I put in big motherfu..er so I hope thats fine. Used to run DEKA gel type racing batt. but wasn't happy with it,needed constant charging if not in use for more than 2 weeks. Dome lights are working fine. I don't think is siren,coz we put in new one and it didn't solve the problem. When we put new module in we doubled up on earth just to be safe. Maybe it can be just the engine heat as you suggested as siren is close to dump pipe and running high mount it does get pretty hot.

Hi guys, I had above alarm installed in my R33 few months ago and had few problems with it: 1. Alarm would going off wail driving for some reason and I could not turn it off by remote, it would stop by itself after few minutes. 2. It would go off as soon as I turn the car off , again goes for few minutes and then stops (very when you go to local servo to fill up) This happens on and off. It would be ok for 2 weeks and than it would do it 3 times in a day. The guy that installed it suspected it was siren playing up.We put in the new one but that didn't fix the problem,few days ago he put new module in so we hope for the best. Did anyone had the same problem and what was the issue? Thanks Goran

^^^ What he said, I think it all comes to pit inspector on final inspection,if you get d..khead it will be painful process. I had all approvals and still failed.

Had the same problem and it was turbo timer playing up. I had to remove it completely.

Only vent I have is filter on the side of can but there is no connection to bottom end. Regarding PCV, once you take the hose out from the side of cam covers there is just a hole,no thread. As you can see in photo from previous post i used brass fitting (that was machined to size) and punched in.

+1 for simple set up,don't need for drain in my opinion and PCV .... just block it off ( get plug machined or something) Edit: Hope it helps

If someone wants quite system with good flow this is what would i recommend. It's custom made SMB oval muffler 3.5" in/out ,rest of the piping is custom 3.5" and I also used hotdog from my old Kakimoto that we chopped up. It's very quite (dare to say 90-92dB) and there was no noticeable power loss,in fact power went from 466>482rwhp but I can't say it was due to mods to exh. system coz runs were not made on the same day(1st run 6 months prior).

I guess 50mm is way to go,I'm running 44mm TIAL off 6boost mani and it's was working fine for running boost of 19 and 21psi,but once it was turn to 24psi it started spiking so I'm thinking I need bigger gate or new tuner

Keen

+2 for C-Red,they built my engine almost 3yrs(40,000km) ago and it's still going strong

Looking to get alarm installed in Perth. ATM have unknown Autowatch model that someone butchered (no siren under bonnet, in-cabin sensors all damaged, spagetti under steering column etc.) Can someone recommend Pro installer in Perth please. Thank You

Fuuu.... anyone got spare 8.5 k ?

I got married on 13 of March, been 4 yrs now and still going Congratulations and all the best

Got custom made 3.5" SMB oval muffler (3.5'' in 3.5'' out) very good flow and yet quiet (dare to say 90 -92dB) but with nice tone when on boost.

Thanks Hamish, yep trial fit them yesterday and fronts did stick out about 25mm, will have to change to 235 and hopefully tyre will sit inside the guard.

Hi guys, I'm looking to get set of wheels for R33 GTST , they are 17x9 +22 with 255/40/17 all around. I know that for the back two it should be OK but not sure for the front .Am I gonna need to change front tyres to 235/45 and roll guards to make them fit? Thanks

Hmmm got same problem here,forged engine (482whp @ 24psi) 30,000km old uses 1L per 5000km serice, I was told that it's normal with forged engines and just to keep an eye on it P.S Also once oil reaches operating temp.(80 -90 C) oil pressure drops to 2bar when on idle( eg. waiting at the lights or cruising 2500rpm in 5th) but when I start to accelerate it goes back to 4 bar or above, should I be worried because of pressure drop and get it checked ?

Yep 10k it's all they lasted,bit of camber wear and no burnouts,only some spirited driving on the way to work in the cold morning air

Hmm very interesting, with treadwere of 140 is hard to believe they were still looking new after 10k. My back two were gone after 10k of daily use only, no track days and shit, on the other hand front two are still ok after 30k. BTW is great tyre and I'll keep using them as steering tyres and try RE001 for the back. P.S I always thought with R1R or other semi-sliks as they get hotter grip and handling gets better.

Built RB25 Haltech E11V2 ECU GT3582 6boost manifold Greddy Plenum 44mm Tial gate 850cc Sards 044 in tank Greddy Profec B Spec II Splitfire coils 3.5" custom exhaust with custom SMB muffler Daily ride so unfortunately running ULP 98,hope with get E85 this year Fully engineered and 100% street legal

Anytime.

Not true.