R33_Dude

Thanks for your eloquent reply. Yes, I do have more questions and a few responses. It is when communication is occurring in the printed medium. Your spelling and word choice makes me think (not necessarily in the following order): arrogant, uneducated, young, and inexperienced. If you spelt properly it would seem more enthusiastic. Your hostile too, which makes me think that your not out for advice, just to troll. Okay well, 660cc injectors flow to approximately 600HP on a 90% duty cycle (approximately). Why not use stock turbo injectors? Save yourself a wad of cash. There's no way you'll make over 200kW. Fair enough use 660's if you have them sitting around. Not hard to get someone to do something so easy huh? Why not tune it yourself. If you want a good road tune (particularly on a N/A engine) expect a few days worth of tuning for a solid tune at all revs, all gears - response is meant to be the aim of the game. EDIT: had to spread this over two posts...

My rule of thumb is: if you can't spell properly you don't know what your talking about. Also from your posts you have made it reasonably clear that you haven't done your research. Why are you using 800cc injectors? Why do you say you "might" go for a RB30E bottom end when the engine will be dynoed in two weeks? How long do you think it takes to pull the engine out, rebuild it, put it back in, wire it up, book dyno time, get it to the tuner, and tune it properly? How do you think the police are going to act when you say that the turbo shell hasn't got a turbo motor? For the most part you do know that they will automatically assume that this is a performance mod? If you could please answer all of these legitimate questions for me, I and everyone else here would take you far more seriously.

... Right. I am assuming now that your a bit thick. So I'll spell it out slowly and carefully just for you seeing that everyone else seems to know whats going on. Engine 1) Autech RB26DE, same compression, no turbo, more expensive than a RB26DETT Engine 2) RB26DETT, same compression, twin turbo, less expensive than the Autech It costs more and is cheaper to just f**king well buy a proper RB26DETT in the first place and not have to f**k about with god damn routing lines and manifolds and all the other bulls**t. WHY WOULD YOU BUY AND TURBO AN AUTECH RB26?!?! ANSWERS TO ABOVE RHETORICAL QUESTION (as in it didn't need answering but you know what 'cause your slow I'll answer it anyway): If you bought an Autech you wanted rare. And if you bought an Autech instead of a GTR your not going to turbo it. 'Cause if you did you would be a grade a cock smoker because you could have bought an equivalent GTR for less money. OR You got an Autech RB26 for a pittance, for absolutely sweet f**k all. Does that answer your question as to why you would and wouldn't turbo an Autech RB26?

okay then see point 1 then) what is the point of turboing an expensive rare engine when there is a (a bit) less expensive, turbo option already available.

Your totally missing the point: why would you turbo it when for an equivalent price you could have an actual RB26DETT. In other words why bother? Also outright power isn't the point of an N/A engine: its response, tractability, and the power/torque curve. Yes it would be interesting, I imagine the result would be comparable to 2JZGE+T's.

Your f***ing kidding right? You know what you would have then? A rb26. Geez.

I got all excited went to download it, then remembered I am running linux at work. .exe no worky. Yes its a slow day today.

Yeah I went to a track day in my uncles 911 GT3 RS and it converted me. No abs. No traction control. Interior consisted of me, wheel, seat and guages. Hard as hell to drive (I kind of spun out a bit - my uncle nearly shat himself...) but he thinks that there is nothing better to learn to drive fast in, because if you can drive a 911 fast you can drive anything. Upsides are pretty good too, you have a quite high initial purchase price but its comparable to a good R32 GTR. Plus sides are air cooled, easy to get parts (US of A), heaps of tuning potential, handle well and the list goes on and on. Can even pick up a turbo model if I had a death wish. Back on to the alfa though this car is designed to teach me basic skills, then will be sold after a year or so and replaced with the Porsche for track work. Won't be as quick as any gtr but the point is skill development more than anything.

Pity your not in tassie I know of at least another three didion rear ends just sitting around. One in a wrecked twinspark and the other in a wrecked 3.0Q. In other news minilites have been ordered along with Potenza Re55's - gotta love trade prices. Also picking up the street tyres tomorrow hopefully, just crappers with tread to get me to and from events. As well as that I replaced the rear swaybar mounts (one was snapped and the other one looked half torqued to death), took off the badging bar the Alfa 75 bit. Put the stock original 75 windshields up for sale on ebay and did a bit more stripping. Found one patch of rust that I didn't know about in the spare tyre well underneath some deadener. Will probably cut the well out and replace with pressed sheet metal after its registered. Can't do much more between now and rego. Engine getting a quick tune tomorrow, will try and upload a video. EDIT: have already decided I will be going with a Porsche for the next track project, probably an early 911S around 1977ish.

Well after seeing Smitty42's Alfa on here I thought I would post up my ongoing project car. Mary Jane 1985 Alfa Romeo 75 2.5 V6 The car is to be a registered track car delegated to motorkhana events and club track days. Car came with a short ratio gearbox from a twinspark and LSD. The plan: Well for now its registration. Then comes extractors, suspension work (koni shocks and new springs probably), updated to slotted rotors, rebuilt SZ calipers that I obtained, and of course the mandatory weight reduction. I think I will run at khana days like that for a while until the engine lets go. Then its out with that and in with either a SR20DET or a quad cam alfa V6 running ITB's. Personally I like the second option. When bought her: Progress so far: Honestly not much. I have removed all the soft sound deadening and started chipping away at the hard stuff. Dry ice didn't do anything to it. Heat gun and chisel seems to be the way. Brakes have been overhauled, fatter adjustable rear sway bar has been fitted, replaced a heap of bushes, and general maintenence including a full 100,000 kilometer service. Which was quite the adventure let me tell you. Updates will be slow, new tyres tomorrow then off to be registered. Getting a stainless side pipe exhaust setup made for me at what is essentially cost price without labor for a) weight reduction and b) because the stock system is restrictive. Need to let out the alfa note!

*cough* put a rotary in *cough* Seriously though its not much work to put a 13B into a transaxle alfa. The idea with my 75 is if the engine lets go I pull it out and put a rotary or a SR20DET in there. Preferably the bridgeported N/A ITB 13B I have sitting in my old mans shed... For those who don't know with the transaxle setup all you really need is the engine sitting at the right height on custom mounts and then the drive shaft connects straight to the crank (basically...). Problems then arise with breaking the gearbox/diff/axles. But theres ways and means around that Suspension wise what do you think you will go with? I reckon I will run with koni yellows for a while before switching to a full RSracing coilover setup. Its a company in the US when I win tattslotto (as seen here: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/milano-75-...t-review-2.html and http://www.alfaromeo-performanceparts.com/...oduct=COME20LD1 ) Hellishly expensive but absolutely definitive.

Yep when I had an R32 it did the same on gravel and snow. Wifes honda does the same. Both have (had in the case of the 32) ABS. If its aok on tarmac that is...

Getting a coupe passed by the partner is fine. Sedans tend to be cheaper though, which I guess suits me fine. She got her '09 Accord last year, its a great car but it bores me to death and one car isn't enough for two people working four jobs. I did consider a V35 but tat said the majority of them seem to have CVT, plus as you said they don't really mesh with the whole performance/tuning thing so well. I'm definitely heading to a R34 its just that I keep tripping over relly nice R32/33's including GTR's well under my price bracket. I know of a mint R32 GTR with forged internals and full service history (including japan) for $16,000 I also know the owner and he would be too scared to drive it hard. Crapped himself (not literally) in my track alfa which is sluggish at best. Plenty of options, I just have to steer a straight course towards the R34 I guess but knowing how these things go instead of getting a R34 GT-T I'll end up in a R32 GTR.

Okay so heres what I would do just on the engine side of things: Induction: Independent throttle bodies. I would be looking at 48mm. Should support well over what a N/A RB20 could possibly make while maintaining perfect throttle response. Adapt 20V 4AGE ones or if you were really keen buy a set of slide throttle bodies as used on V8 super cars (cost a mint). Secondary injectors mounted over trumpets for WOT. Laser cut aluminum manifold. Needs carefully designed runners for optimum torque/horsepower. (I could design this for you if you wanted and get it cut.) Trumpets, filters, carbon fiber/aluminum box surround (heat soak reasons) with large bore piping to fresh air, preferably polished alloy. Concept is more available cold air than the car can suck in. Head: NEO RB20DE. Ported by a real professional. Could be hard to find. 1 or 2mm over sized titanium valves. Depends on porters recommendation. Won't try and second guess the Black Art of race head porting. All the most lightweight (i.e. expensive) gear you can get your hands on. Cams that bump peak power and torque to something approaching 7000 rpm. Block/bottom end: NEO block. Crack tested and fully inspected as a matter of course. CP forged pistons (any compression ratio you want), balanced to 0.001 grams. Really anal retentive. 12.5:1 comp ratio is nice on E85 from what I have seen. Forged conrods, possibly Eagle. Lightened/balanced to within 0.001 gram. Carefully match to each piston to cancel out any minor differences in weight beyond this. Will need super sensitive scales. Exhaust: Long runner exhaust manifold. Will look like a basket of snakes. On top of all that expense add better gaskets, custom engine mounts (lower, farther back to cancel out weight and improve handling), race bearings, possibly a dry sump setup if your lethally serious, water pump, oil pump, belts and lots more cash plus hours upon hours of tuning. I don't doubt its possible. It would just be so restrictively expensive I would just wander over to the honda camp and buy an integra VTi-R.

Thanks a lot for your useful input. I realise skylines have the big three: Import. Turbo. RWD. Equals punished car. There are ones out there that haven't been tortured as much as others. I should know I have done a lot of torturing myself. It isn't that difficult to find a clean, well looked after R33 or 34. The point is what is really honestly better in my opinion. What is justifiably better. Answer: if in doubt get the newer model with less kilometers. EDIT: signing is on moday come for the book get free fish and chips.

Well its not really the book its the justification. I didn't want to be another twat that jumps on and says "yerr I want a skyline whats cool?" No my point is there are plus and minuses and this is how I worked it out in my head. By saying how I came to my conclusion it leaves people open to say well I think thats right and/or wrong. So you would say the R34 has been pretty good then. Pretty much confirms what I already know. EDIT: Well I honestly think theres not that much of a performance gap its more an improvement in technology and a newer overall car that results in a better platform.

Well, time has come for me to get my ass back into a skyline.Things have changed a bit since my last one. R34's have become affordable all of a sudden, R32's have finally lost a lot of value and R33's are hitting bargain basement prices. The same applies to the appropriate GTR's. So I told my partner gee I want another skyline. The Minister for War and Finance said get one but it has to last you at least five years (unlike every car I have had for the last two years or so...). I said (probably foolishly...) deal. Then I ran into a problem - what skyline to buy? So I started searching based on a number of criteria (this quickly turned into a buyers guide for a daily driver skyline): - Reliability - Comfort - Comparable Performance - Price Reliability: This may anger some of the GTR owners out there but nope not going down that path. Consensus is they are a high maintenance car with plenty that goes wrong plus I would only really buy a R34 and they are (despite dropping considerably in price) well out of my budget. In terms of GTS-T/GT-T's R32's are great - from personal experience I couldn't break mine and I fair tried - very strong engine. Downside being that they are older and most likely to be belted. R33's are the most whored skylines and no doubt I would have to pay a premium to find a good one but there are nice unmodded examples out there. Owned a N/A one and was most impressed with the quality of the car. Could have been I got a good one. R34's on the other hand cost a bit extra but are FAR more modern, have that b-e-a-utiful NEO RB, and are a comfortable undated place top be. Haven't owned one though so my experience is limited Score from ten (personal opinion only not quantifiable in anyway): R32: 6/10 (strong but old) R33: 6/10 (most likely thrashed) R34: 8/10 (best but expensive) Comfort: having sat in/owned all of them helps me a bit. The '32 was a touch small for me if I am honest (6'4"...). Inside looks like a VN aka s-expletive-t. The '33 was good but missing a few modern conveniences, digital air conditioning controls were impossible to read with sunnies on and hard to quickly adjust when driving. The '34 has everything I could possibly want. Extra comfy seats too. Score: R32: 3/10 (didn't fit, ugly commodore interior) R33: 6/10 (pretty good missing a few things, air con annoyed me) R34: 9/10 (excellent all in all.) Comparable Performance: Well stock for stock theres a bit of a difference between the three (approx 0-100 times R32: 7 seconds R33: 6 seconds R34: 6 seconds) but thats not my point - who keeps their skyline stock forever? Ideally I would like comparable performance to a modern HSV Clubsport from 0-100 (5 seconds approx). Experience has taught me absolute power figures mean little, and throttle response, low down and mid range torque is where its at. So minus points to the R32 with its comparatively diminutive engine capacity. Plus points to the '33 and extra to the '34 - just checkout the article in HPI (can't remember the issue) for essentially bolt ons to 11 second R34's. Very impressive. So most likely I would like to modify to 250RWkW. Easiest to achieve on a R34 by far I believe. That said the RB20 is one tough little bugger and definitely can't be underestimated. Score: R32: 6/10 (strong engine but smaller capacity) R33: 8/10 (bigger capacity, probably thrashed, might not be reliable to 250kW) R34: 9/10 (Same as R33 but can easily support 240 - 250kW) Price: This is under a realistic budget of $25,000. Preferably less of course and preferably with a fair whack of cash left to make any modifications I deem necessary. A quick search of evilbay and the for sale section here tells me the average R32 sells from $8000 ->$15,000. R33 from $7000 -> $15,000. R34 from $15,000 ->$25,000. Nice and easy to compare. Factoring value for money into it the '32 and '33 drop off a bit though and the R34 picks up a bit. R32: 7/10 R33: 8/10 R33: 8/10 So that's the end of my little comparison. Lets take an average score. R32: 5.5/10 average R33: 7/10 average R34: 8.5/10 average So where do I go? Is the extra cash justified for a R34? Is a mint R33 worth a bit extra? Answers : yes and no. I think buying a R34 is worth that extra sacrifice now, mods can come later. Plus its better looking than both the '32 and '33. Meh better go make space in the garage. Feel free to try and change my mind I'm a picky bastard and it'll take weeks before I find the car I like. Likewise if there are things I have said that you don't think are right pipe up. It all adds into my decision processes – or not, if your just wrong. Any R34 GT-T owners have opinions on long term ownership? Thats about it I think. EDIT: copypastaing removed my spaces.

Also for alfa parts I would recommend the Alfa Romeo Owners Club Victoria forums: http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/ Good guys all in all and its a tight knit community. For the most part everyone is out to help everyone else with whatever it is that needs doing. On a downside alfa owners tend to be touchy about the whole "original car" and restoration thing, so heads up be careful what you say. I said that I was putting lightweight rims on my alfa for track days and some guy exploded at me... Anyway I might make up a thread on my 75 but progress is far slower than this. It's a club day / motorkhana car. Its my bit of fun before I step back into a R34.

I'm currently piecing together a alfa 75 for the same kind of deal. Heres a present for you: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/engine-con...le-project.html Read the whole thread. The guy lives just down the road for me, last time I had a chat he was complaining about how the silicon joiners on the throttle body kept blowing off... ... ... Under 30psi+ of boost.

Alrighty up for sale is a 1993 R33 Gts-t, has to go, moving interstate. Mods: - forged pistons - forged conrods. - greddy td06 turbo kit @ 18psi - 3.5inch stainless steel exhaust system - greddy profec b-spec2 electronic boost controller - external waste gate - bosch 040 in tank fuel pump - high flowed injectors - aftermarket fuel reg - blitz front mount intercooler - 4inch thottle body - aftermarket plenum - apexi power fc which also comes with hand controler - twin plate clutch - cusco strut brace - body kit and spoiler - 17inch volk racing tri spoke rims with new rubber all round - prostar alarm system which has too many features to list. Plenty more I have no doubt forgotten. Car also has a full sound system which includes a touch screen dvd player with a 12inch sub in the back and splits in the front. Interior in good condition. Dyno graph attached is of the first run at 16psi. After retune, a few changes and boost upped to 18psi it pushed 290ish kilowatts. Can't find the dyno graph now but I'll attach the old one. Honest car, needs very little doing. In my opinion I would remove the spoiler, change the rims and respray the dash black. All offers at $15,000. Will swap for a manual R31 and $13,500. Can take more photos saturday for those interested. Contact via PM. Money Shot:

Still for sale.

Would swap for a manual R31 and $13,000 firm

Alrighty up for sale is a 1993 R33 Gts-t, has to go, moving interstate. Mods: - forged pistons - forged conrods. - greddy td06 turbo kit @ 18psi - 3.5inch stainless steel exhaust system - greddy profec b-spec2 electronic boost controller - external waste gate - bosch 040 in tank fuel pump - high flowed injectors - aftermarket fuel reg - blitz front mount intercooler - 4inch thottle body - aftermarket plenum - apexi power fc which also comes with hand controler - twin plate clutch - cusco strut brace - body kit and spoiler - 17inch volk racing tri spoke rims with new rubber all round - prostar alarm system which has too many features to list. Plenty more I have no doubt forgotten. Car also has a full sound system which includes a touch screen dvd player with a 12inch sub in the back and splits in the front. Interior in good condition. Dyno graph attached is of the first run at 16psi. After retune, a few changes and boost upped to 18psi it pushed 290ish kilowatts. Can't find the dyno graph now but I'll attach the old one. Honest car, needs very little doing. In my opinion I would remove the spoiler, change the rims and respray the dash black. All offers around $15,000 cash only sale. Can take more photos saturday for those interested. Contact via PM. Money shot:

Hey all I have a pair of exedy clutches I need to get rid of, part number NSK-7056HD. All boxed up. Never used. Brand new. I have a pair of them, $400 each. They normally retail for $500 so grab a bargain! Free delivery in hobart region. Cheers, Clay

Just picked up a '31 which is making the transition to cheap track car. Ideally I am looking at a twin cam swap of some description, whether it be a RB20DE or DET does not phase me - if its non-turbo I will just bolt up all my turbo spares for a RB20DE+T. May also consider a RB30ET if anyone has one in need of a rebuild. Looking around or under $1000, good condition of course but the cheaper the better. Shoot me a PM or respond to this thread. Cheers.