R32N00B

ya sch 10 is .109" (sorry im going imperial on you lol its what im used to here in the states) schedule 10 pipe is PLENTY thick for manifold. as long as its built and welded/backpurged correctly it's the optimum thickness. Any thicker is a waste and will weigh quite a bit more, and also will have smaller diameter ID. At least this is my fabricators point of view. He hasnt had one crack yet and they're out getting all out hammered on a daily basis.

what i meant to say is pipe measures differently than tubing.... tubing is measured OD where pipe is measured ID..... 1.25" pipe has a 1.25" ID (on schedule 80 pipe) the OD stays 1.66" so schedule 40 pipe will have a larger ID and schedule 10 even larger. Thats why my 1.5" pipe has an ID of 1.66".... it only has an ID od 1.5" on schedule 80 pipe.... hope this makes sense

My mistake gents Not 2in ID, yes the od is actually 1.9in hence the confusion Weld els measure differently than regular pipe Medium runner manifolds (typical manifolds you see like 6boost/full race etc) are 1 1/4" weld els but have an inside diameter of 1.44in (od 1.66in) Mine was built with "large runners" 1 1/2" weld els Which have an inside diameter of 1.66in (od 1.9in) Sorry for the confusion there. But this thing is just massive next to the full race we have sitting around its so much tighter together with the larger runners. It's also not thinwall like someone said This is stainless steel 304 schedule 10 pipe It's like the 6boost but it's stainless not mild steel and larger runners

double post :-/

Post up some pics of the manifold when you get it. EDIT: just saw your post...... just go with the 6boost!!! $1300 is cheap.... Manifolds like mine go for $2500USD in the states. And from what i gather 6boost manifolds are like $2k! I probably woulda dished out the extra $200-$300 for the 6boost but I haven't seen the Gopipes manifolds before. Do they build them out of cast SS weld-el's? Fully backpurged? ported? what diameter runners? My buddy just finished fabbing up my manifold this week. Twin Scroll T4, 2in diameter Runners, fully backpurged and ported. He build the collector himself instead of getting those dumb 6-1 premade ones. just need to place the gate this weekend and take it for ceramic coating.

you still need to run both the water lines front and back to a T and the other side to the block. I tried running just the line from the back of the engine under the plenum and the block to my single but it didnt promote good coolant flow and made it difficult to bleed out air. I than added a T to the front on the upper water neck and it worked out much better.

bump

Testing waters on my setup.... thinking about going AEM V2 w/ MAP. These parts are in the USA. You will need to pay shipping to AUS. All priced are in USD (i can claim items at lesser value to help with import tax) I have an Apexi Power FC L-jetro for r32/r33 with a new EL hand controller (paid $429 for the EL!) works fantastic just its time for me to go MAP. Looking for $850usd with the EL Hand controller Also have twin Z32 MAFS up for grabs $125 each Mafs are in great condition and read within .1v of each other HKS Green mushroom intake filters (REAL NOT KNOCKOFF) 70019-BK003 (80mm inlet/150mm head)- $85usd each only used about 500 miles I would do both MAFS with intakes for $375usd! And I also have a GReddy intake for single turbo to dual MAFS - polished. good luck even finding this in stock anywhere. 11520901 Retail is $345 Ill let her go for $200usd Take the whole thing for $525usd! Or if you want it ALL And the PFC ill do $1350USD. PM or email [email protected]

i will be attending again this year.... i do remember bumping into a group of you guys from aussie-land over at Omari Factory last year.... we were the Americans there with Tomei (Allen L) should be another good trip! ive also concerned myself with beef and whatnot coming out of radiation areas..... and bottled water is key!

acl bearings, jun mains and clutch sold still have Carrillo Pro-H rods with CARR bolts, Eagle rods with arp2000 and ARP main studs

$1500usd SHIPPED to your door

crank is SOLD

I have a BRAND NEW in the box AEM EMS version 2 AEM part no. 30-6620 This AEM EMS works on the following applications: -ALL Skyline engines up to 1998 (r32/r33) RB20, RB25, RB26 -Z32 300zx turbo or non (90-95) -S14 SR20DET (zenki 94-96) -ALL CA18DET -92-94 maxima ve30de This unit has never been used..... still has the safety seal across the connector. PLUG AND PLAY MSRP is $2,497usd Looking for $1,500usd!! (plus post $40usd) FEATURES: The AEM software is extremely versatile and allows tuners to program virtually any combination of engine control, power adders and auxiliary devices, and accurately delivers proper amounts of fuel and correct ignition timing for any boost level or operating condition. This is a top of the line Engine Managment System. Plugs directly into the factory harness. No rewiring necessary. Uses all the factory sensors. Includes start up calibrations. System is fully enabled and unlocked - Never pay for upgrades! Context sensitive help eases tuning process. Maps can be password protected by the tuner to prevent unauthorized usage or sharing. Runs on Windows-compatible software. Up to 12 peak and hold injector drivers. Up to 8 direct-fire coil outputs. Up to 16 general-purpose outputs. Up to 8 definable switch inputs. Up to 4 EGT inputs with fuel trim. 1MB of internal data logging. Electronic boost control. Full idle control. Programmable traction control. Software definable knock control. Two step launch control. User configurable soft-cut rev limiters. Wet or dry nitrous control. Tune using new USB communication port or serial port works with all AEM gauges

shipping the crank to AUS is going to run about $275usd through the post office (cheapest option ive found) it weighs almost 50 lbs..... i also have ACL race series main/rod bearings in STD size for rb26 as well..... $150ussd

also i understand what you are saying about the valves taking more lateral force than usual and in turn wearing the guides faster.... ive considered this as well.... but i find the rb26 a good candidate for such a modification. you see the rb26 head is cam over bucket (as you obv know) and in a setup like this.... the bucket absorbs a great majority of the lateral force... the valve sees very little of the lateral forces of the cam going around.... the bucket/bore see it all. and whats left is mostly straight up and down motion for the valve..... now if we were talking about an SR20 head or any other "rocker style" head i would be inclined to say that its a bad candidate for such a mod.... Im not saying its right or wrong just contributing to the discussion.....

thanks thats what i needed to hear..... im already gonna be checking the guide play this weekend.... so if its good im gonna go for it....

money is extremely tight right now...... plus all my valves are already lapped in to perfection if i do guides thats a ton more labor to press out and press in than hone/ream them all AND than do a whole valve job to boot..... we're talking over a grand

So I recently obtained an expensive short block (tomei) by luck. I could never afford one outside of this opportunity. Im now using my rb26 head on this block and Ive read about alot of people having issues with the stock guides breaking off and killing pistons/heads (quench) Normally i wouldnt be so concerned but this motor is special and I really have one shot at it. Ive considered flush cutting the factory valve guides not only for better flow but mainly to avoid the broken guide issue. obviously they only break where they protrude into the bowl so cutting them flush would negate that from happening. But im wondering if this is good practice or acceptable. Its a street car but wont see alot of duty. I know the guides will prolly wear quicker but is this something i should avoid all together with an RB head? I tried looking online and it looks like practically NO ONE in the RB world is flush cutting the guides so Im concerned there is a reason why..... any help you can give would be GREATLY appreciated. I recently had my RB26 fully built and the builder dropped the ball on me and i ended up with a destroyed crank, block, bearings, and couple of toasted rods in about 1000 miles..... Murphies law is out to get me.

still have it all will do CARRILLOS for $1000 shipped!!!

i can ship anywhere but like i said the crank will cost as its just under 50 lbs

yea USPS looks like about $275usd to aus. for the crank UPS is DOUBLE that

PRICES IN US DOLLARS changing my setup..... got a bunch of goodies up for grabs here at rock bottom prices all prices are plus shipping. shipping is coming from the states so heavier items might be a touch pricy to ship.... ***1st up is a set of totally baller Carillo PRO-H rods w/ CARR hardware.... these rods are the best money can buy for rb25/rb26.... the CARR bolts alone are $60 EACH (x12= $720) these cost right around $1900 new. im selling for a steal at $1000 ***Im also selling a set of JUN main studs for rb25/rb26. These only have about 1000 miles on them.... retail is something like $500, so i think $200 is fair...... ***I have a set of used ARP mains as well..... $150obo ***Also i have a BRAND NEW OEM NISSAN R34 N1 crankshaft..... brand new in the box never used or even placed in an engine Im shooting myself in the foot selling this for $800 but I need to move it!!! ***selling an RPS 6 puck clutch with HD pressure plate (blue) rated at 550ft/lbs... plenty of friction material left.... upgrading to twin plate.... was functioning perfect when removed $300 plus ship ***Also up for grabs is a set of Eagle H-Beam rods for rb25/rb26 with less than 1000 miles on them (2 are brand new).... obviously mint $350 plus ship PM with interest

DOUBLE POST mods please delete

thanks for looking guys this sold locally.....

taking offers.....