Gareth87

@Dose Pipe SutututuYeah inlet temps are still high.. not sure why. Might have to go to a plazmaman cooler. Currently running a 600x300mm mishimoto core. @ButtersYes, 300rpm earlier spool and made more power. G series turbo do seem to do what they claim!

Just wanted to post some info on my back to back dyno result with my old GT3076 against a new G30-770. I struggled to find info on the 30-770 mounted on a 4 cyl, but also thought it might be of interest to those of you looking at this size turbo for a 6cyl. My target with the new turbo setup was to reduce inlet air temp and hopefully make a little more power and with any luck gain some response. The old GT3076 made good power but maxxed out at around 22psi, we tuned to 24psi but only made very small gains which prompted the upgrade. Nothing changed on the engine setup other than turbo swap. Everything else remains unchanged from the last tune 7 months ago. Dyno bed length and strapping were also exactly the same as well as the tyres which I swap over to road tyres from Semi slicks just for dyno work. Engine spec is a built FJ20, pistons, rods, head porting, big cams etc (let me know if you want exact spec). First thing to note was the new turbo had slightly different dimensions and needed the flange cut and re welded on the exhaust manifold to give clearance between the head and comp/exhaust housing. Exhaust flange is also Vband which needed re welding from old 4 bolt flange. All easy stuff. Matt at PITS has tuned my car for 15 years and quickly started working through the boost levels. First thing to note was that the new G30-770 came on earlier even though its got a higher HP rating. We gained about 300rpm in spool and power was up immediately on the old setup. Not by miles, but it was above the 3076 and the same boost. The biggest gains started coming with more boost and made its biggest jump above 24psi which is what the compressor map suggests. Overall, very happy with the result. The new setup made 41hp more than the 3076 with only 2psi more boost and we also gained response. Dyno sheets attached, the 2 best runs with the 3076 were 495 and 507hp, but Matt pulled it back to 495 as inlet temps were over 80 deg C. New turbo made 536hp with inlet temps around 60 deg C. Look carefully on the dyno sheet and you'll see the old vs new lines. We didn't tune further as it has a cometic head gasket which don't have the best rep and we were getting close to the limit of the coils. 30psi should see closer to 600hp with any luck. If anyone wants some more info on anything, just let me know!

Thanks for the reply. Good to know. I'll check the speed port as well just out of interest.

Hey everyone Just bolted on my new Garrett G30-770 ready for tune tomorrow and took it for a test drive. Hoping it's normal, but it's waaay more whistly than my old GT3076. Even coming off the clutch in 1st gear she starts whistling. I checked oil feed which was fine and its literally brand new so figured it's just got more induction noise than my old turbo. Can anyone else confirm? Thanks

I was hoping to use a stock abs disk but removing teeth sounds average. Reading off the back of the studs is doable as well but was hoping to have a little more resolution. I was thinking of having a disc laser cut and pressed on. Never had that done and not sure of costing.. my idea was simply a cicular disk with 10 to 12 holes drilled in it.. Would that work?

Hi all, Had my s13 hub off last night to look at mounting a pickup for the hall sensor so i can setup TC on the ecu. Looks like its an 80.5mm ID on the back of the hub, but can't seem to find a sensor disc or ring to suit. Any suggestions? Worst case i could probably make something on a lathe but hoping there is a straight fit option. Thanks.

Got a 34 GTS box in my datsun but the 34 shifter hits my centre console. The shape of the r33 shifter is much better but not sure if the swap is compatible? I believe the little plastic bush on the bottom is different. Can anyone confirm if it's possible to swap them?

Hey all.. thanks for the replies.. yep. I'm guessing the clutch height is out of wack. I had the rb flywheel next to the fj flywheel and the FJ fly is thinner I'm pretty sure. I should of picked this up but It makes sense now i think about how the pull type clutch works.. We lengthened the slave shaft today as a test and popped the centre ring off the clutch so the box has to come out anyway now. I'm guessing this is something that can be machined and fixed? This is all a bit new to me with a pull clutch.

Hi all, Just fitted a fully rebuilt R34 RB25 box behind my FJ20 and went for the first drive today but had an issue.. If I put my foot on the clutch fully and try to engage 1st, it doesn't seem to be disengaging the clutch fully as it starts to creep forward without being in gear. Once I actually push it into gear, the clutch bite point is very high in the stroke which I thought would be the oppsite? It also shuddered when clutching off from standstill. Any ideas? Facts are.. R34 Neo box - pull type clutch FJ20 billet lightweight flywheel - fresh facing Nismo slave cylinder Master cylinder is original nissan bluebird

Interesting. The 30/900 looks right on paper but weather it gives me enough headroom is the question. I dont have a pressure sensor in the exhaust manifold so I won't know if I have a restriction unfortunately.

A few people have suggested the g30/900.. i was concerned with it being not a big enough step forward. I don't know a great deal regarding compressor maps but I don't suppose you would have an overlay of the maps between the 2 turbos and how they would stack up?

So I have been doing some research into the turbo sizing and it's looking like the G35/900 is going to be a good fit for the engine combo. It's also got a T3 housing so I can leave my manifold as is and just change to V band exhaust. The biggest issue I've got is that going with that turbo seems to be best guess. I haven't had anyone overlay a compressor map yet or have many results to speak of. My main concern is increasing lag and loosing response. I don't suppose anyone has the compressor maps and is able to give me a ballpark pro/con over the rev range and will it be a significant improvement to power and usable power? Current turbo - Garrett GT3040 - 0.82AR Proposed turbo - Garrett G35/900 - 0.83AR Engine limiter at 8300rpm - Current max boost 24psi

I dont think so.. i just wanted to cross off everything possible. Yeah i suppose so.. any other ideas. Wonder if a nylon end of some kind would be possible

Hi all, I've got an Aeroflow Rose jointed alternator bracket which has been great and works perfectly. Recently, It started rattling at approx 3200 rpm. it's a really loud Buzzing rattle confirmed with an automotive stethoscope. Its also visual if you rev and hold it around the right revs. I've tried everything I can think of including swapping the bolts for a shank bolt so there is no thread inside the rose joint. I'm out of options.. Any ideas? (yes, the photo shows the lock nuts loose. I was in the process of removing it when I took the pic) Thanks.

Interesting you say that, I have noticed hot spots in the engine bay over the years. I have done a lot with heat shielding which seems to have made a difference. Saying that, engine temp has never been an issue though luckily. I'll get the basics addressed asap and see what effect it has. New turbo is pretty tempting though haha. sucks having mates with fast cars egging things on!

I understand that engine bay air is going to be hot, which is why my next avenue will be to build an external airbox and also add a Sensor pre intercooler to find out exactly where the temp is coming from before spending thousands. This is very interesting, heaps of people have said that cooler temps are drastically cooler with a plazmaman core, so it may be something to visit once I find out what the sensor says. Knocking 20 degrees off is huge! Keen to see how that goes! Surely there must be a few 4 cyl guys running a G35-900 around...

Yep. Good point.. I'll rule out what i can first. Yeah a sensor to pre intercooler is the go.

Thanks mate! This is my thought, while it still makes good numbers with the old turbo, I'm sure that 20yrs of tech would see an improvement! Just slightly concerned about the heat thing. But as many people use chinese intercoolers and make good numbers, I'm feeling like a big part of the problem is turbo. I would be very keen to see any 4 cyl engine running a 35/900 to see where it comes on and makes power etc.

Hi all, Been back at the dyno a few times in last months. Story is.. My FJ20 makes 500hp on the Pits dyno but its making loads of air temp. 70 deg after a 4th gear run. Went from a 450 cooler core to 600mm and made very little difference. Made about 520hp at 24psi but we pulled it back for safety. Its making over 10hp per PSI so turbo isn't showing it's maxxed. Air temp issue needs to be solved so it's either try a plazmaman core or update the turbo with the theory being the 20yr old GT3040 is making heat. Open to suggestions here but thinking an update to a Garrett G35/900 but not sure if this is going to make it lazy or new age turbo might even improve response. Want to eventually see 550 to 600hp So.. turbo or cooler? If turbo.. is the 35/900 in the ballpark?

Thanks mate, great advice. I just need to try and get one by the end of November now.. it can't hurt doing both and taking outside air in from the bumper or something like that.

Ok so ive been making enquiries about intercoolers, massive waits at the moment for custom made.. so if anyone has any suggestions for off the shelf coolers would be great. Better yet, has anyone done a back to back with different coolers? I dont want to simply trade my chinese cooler in for the same one with a different brand stamped on it..

Sounds good

Ok great, car originally had carbs and the FJ20 airbox is long gone. I'll fab a box up with a draw pipe from outside the engine bay. I have been looking at various off the shelf products and most only have a 3" inlet so it looks like I'll be doing something like what you did with the 33 airbox. as for the intercooler sprayers, would prefer to keep everything conventional with the intercooler, just need to find a decent cooler in the size I can fit. Anyone got any back to backs results on intercoolers types?

Hi all, Matt from PITS just finished my new ECU tune. (Link Fury G4+ with EGTS, wideband etc). Went 495hp at 22psi which I'm stoked with, but I'm throwing away power with air inlet temps. End of a run it's exceeding 60 deg C. Under bonnet temps at the filter is up near 80 deg C. Questions are.. 1) - Any suggestions for intercoolers? (The current cooler is a 450mmx75mm tube and fin autobarn special from 2004) Going wider isn't an option. 2) - Has anyone had any good results with airboxes and cold air intakes? Open to suggestions here. My thoughts are to retain the filter, enclose it and add an inlet pipe from outside the engine bay to feed it. Pics of the engine bay attached..

I bought a 25 Neo box that has a crunchy 4th synchro which i believe is pretty common. Eventually I'll buy a dog gearset but in the meantime, is there any other synchro options or tricks worth considering? Thanks in advance