Gareth87

That is exactly what I'm looking for. My engine never rattles once I crank it over for a little bit, even if I just see 10psi before starting. @DCIEVE - Not sure what you mean, I don't run a sandwich plate between the block and the filter. No oil cooler. As for the 1 way valve, little worried it will restrict flow. If I tee it into main gallery with the electric valve, will this not work as well? (think I'm missing something) Cheers.

I've just spent a couple of hours reading everything I can on the forum about ethanol.. Very interesting, many thanks for the input everyone. Especially with all the time people have put in testing ecu's, fuel content etc. Few questions.. will keep it simple and brief. 1) From what I read, it seems as though the AFRs of ethanol are not as critical as 98. Is this the case? - My ecu is old but it seems that new injector technology helps a lot with fine tuning. Will mapping big injectors with 500rpm increments be a real issue? (Wolf V4) 2) I run a single 3/8th fuel line, will this be a limiting factor? 3) I run a Sard 1:1 Fuel pressure reg. Will this be a an issue? 4) Plan is to upgrade lift pump (Suggestions?), Swap the 044 for a 400lph Walbro with a filter before the lift and pressure pump, ID2000s or something big. Replace all fuel lines just for piece of mind, put it all together and take it to the dyno. Any objections or suggestions? Cheers all, G

Just a side question, sorry to move off topic. Running an external oil pump with a long line between pump and feed to engine. Always get a lot of rattle on startup so I crank the engine over without ignition first to build pressure. Not worried about anti surge but very keen to use the accusump as pre start lube. How would you use one of these with an external pump picking up oil from external sump pickup and fed direct into oil pump housing? Cheers.

@CrashSVG - It's a good idea that you do explain the issue as you did so people have all the facts to offer an opinion. I don't know a great deal about RB's but it certainly sounds like you have an oil pump that's not keeping up with demand. In my experience, I have an external oil pump on my engine and I had a drama with the bypass at one point. I have 3 spring options on my pump and when I run the lightest spring it has a similar issue. Perhaps with the bearing clearance you may need to preload the spring a little more. However, in saying that, pressure and flow are 2 different things and it sounds like when the RPM is higher, the flow can't keep up. Just my ideas, but I would speak to someone that know's a thing or 2 about RB's. G

Running an old Wolf V4 that struggles a bit to get the tune refined. Using 550cc RX7 injectors now but will run 910 siemens injectors if I switch to E85. Obviously the bigger injectors will struggle more to find a good tune, but has anyone here tried tuning big injectors on a fairly old school ecu with E85? is it a harder fuel to tune or will it be easier due to the fact that it requires more fuel for the same power levels? Will injector quality help this? Don't wanna build a big fuel system with the works, get it to the dyno and find the ECU is just struggling overtime.

Thanks for the info @Discopotato03. Good to know a little more about the setup. I know the FJ is old school but I've built a tough engine now with every part that could go in the thing and it really does make good power with relatively low boost and plenty more in reserve for when I wind the boost up. My engine is the same year as the car so it's quite fitting in that respect but I would like to make 450hp at the tyres and call it a day so I'm interested as to what might let me down on my current setup. @PSI086 - Will search ebay, cheers!

@jet_R31 - FJ20, 400hp ATW, 17psi boost, 8500rpm rev limit. Full house engine build with all the trimmings. Looking to make more HP if possible. Tuner said to try as it is first with single coil etc but wanting to learn more about ignition setups so I know what to expect and what is possible. Running old Wolf V4 ECU which isn't helping the drivability at the moment so if I can just go ahead and throw it back on the dyno with what I have, then great. Cheers for the input so far everyone.

Yeah I see that's fairly common running a coil and short lead for each plug, especially with a distributor setup like mine. When can I expect to see limits with my setup and is it related to boost and RPM? Will the coil need upgrading and what is the big downside with a setup like mine? Cheers and sorry for all the Q's, just trying to get my head around what I need to know. G

Really don't have a great understanding of ignition systems. Keen to know more, what's available and how far each with go. Currently I run a single bosch coil with with an old school electronic distributor on my FJ20. How far will this go before I run out of spark? What's the next upgrade and when do CDI ignition systems become useful? G

Running 300zx rotors and calipers with S13 coil overs on my Bluebird. However, I need to replace the rotors very soon and I'm keen to upgrade the rotor size too. I have seen caliper spacing kits that are available so I can use my 300zx calipers with 370z rotors but I am wondering if this would fit with a 17" wheel? Any advice would be great. Thanks.

Located here but email or inbox me if you want to make me an offer... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/150928944033?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_500wt_1288 Cheers, Gareth

Hi, I have been doing a bit of research on EWPs and can find plenty of info but not so much real world testing. Does anyone here run an EWP? Was there a notable difference in cooling efficiency and does anyone have a dyno reading as to how much gain can be made. (hp gain is secondary, just curious to see what the real difference is) Cheers in advance.

awesome, cheers mate, a fat mid range would be nice! i think i'll start getting the parts together and get it sorted!

Thanks for the 2 latest replies since my last post. i only wanted to establish that good power gains can be made if all things were equal and i just swapped the fuel to E85. (ie, if i ran 17psi as i do now and tuned to E85. What could i expect so to speak). But of course, my plan is to up the boost level and see what it makes. The comments about fuel consumption and water absorption was what i was looking for as well. I know it will use more fuel of course but figures are great. I will also look into the dilution of the oil. Basically i want to know everything i can so i know what to expect. Yeah my turbo is just starting to work at 17psi, i know when i went from 14psi to 17 i was making just over 10hp per psi. I am also using a standard 55mm TB. I couldn't up the boost any more because it started to lean off over 7k rpm and the injectors were at 100% cycle. Any others comments would be greatly appreciated. Cheers guys.

Yeah of course i realise it will need tuning with the new fuel but from what i can gather i am definitely looking at a gain and a fairly substantial one at that. If i put some bigger injectors in it and re tuned at 17 psi i think from what i am reading, it would achieve a result, but of course, the idea of this fuel is to be able to crank boost into it with det resistance. Matty Spry from PITS does the tune and the dyno sheet you see was only a power run i did when i was at 101 with a mate running his GTR on the dyno. We just wanted a comparison. Matt has achieved some fantastic results with my FJ and i would of course take it to him for the E85 tune. Next step will be discussing it with him. Just wanted some ideas first. Does E85 cause excessive wear on rings or cylinder head or anything stupid i should know about? How about leaving the car for extended periods of time sitting? does the fuel turn to jelly or go off? i live in Germany part of the year so it doesn't get run so often while i'm here.

Methanol is out of the question, it's a street car and when i want to drive it, i do. I want to know the benefits and problems of E85 in a real street application for this reason and if it's worth doing. The engine has custom pistons, rods, head porting 291 deg in and out cams. external oil pump setup etc etc and was built by Mark Ashford. It is a drag engine for all intents and purposes and i ask about response because i know you can run a lot more timing with E85. In fact, i don't think it's a laggy engine. I have usable boost and power early enough for the street and even going for night time mountain runs it's no real drama off tight corners. (also run 4:11s) Was just curious to find out if it would come on earlier. So at this stage, i'm looking at only minimal upgrades and a re tune. Basically what i'm looking for is what i can expect if i did the fuel swap and tune. Scotty, another 50kw with the current setup would be excellent. Are you saying that with the same boost levels or more boost to go with that. That would be around a 20% gain by just switching fuel which is what i have read.

Yeah Bryn! of course i want more. I think 430-440hp on pump fuel would be as far as i would want to go. No safeguard for a warm day or something like that. I just need to know what to expect and what the real world gains would be. At this stage i wold upgrade my surge tank, all rubber lines, add another Bosch 044 with a highflow cleanable filter and 1000cc injectors. What sort of real gains have people on this forum found with the fuel. Was it difficult to tune and what surprises have people found? I think 450hp would be pretty special for a street driven bluebird but i don't want it to be on the limit as far as the tune goes. My reasoning to change to this fuel is just to have more of a safeguard against detonation. Can anyone else add their experiences? G

Hi everyone, I have a fully built FJ20 which currently makes 400HP at 17psi with a GT3040 on it. This is on BP ultimate 98 and the reason it doesn't make more power is because my injectors are flat out (only 550s) I want to upgrade the injectors but i quite like the idea of using E85. I have a single Bosch 044 fed from a 1.5l surge tank and 3/8ths fuel lines. As i mentioned i have a 550cc injectors which i know will be far too small. I also have a Wolf V4 running the whole show which my tuner was already having difficulty stabilising the fuel map with the 550s. What will i need to run E85 with this engine and what can i expect as far as horsepower goes? will it come on earlier with the extra timing that you can run with E85 and is there any dramas with the fuel as far as damaging fuel lines or any of that stuff i hear. I really don't know much about the fuel as far as real world applications go. I have only read forums and other peoples findings. Any insight would be great, Thanks.

Hey guys, the thermostat is 77 deg, and from running it with the cap of the rad, it seems as though the thermostat is fully open and water running flat out by 82. It was a warm evening and then i drove around an underground carpark so i think it was pretty good really, i was just interested to see the effect heat soak had and if you guys have the same sort of characteristics. As soon as i got moving, the temp came straight down again. As for the PWR rad. Its fantastic. worth every bit. The rad is no bigger, but it runs PWRs close mesh core now and 2 top quality SPAL thermos that cover the whole radiator. Before, once the thermos came on, even on normal road cruising, they couldn't bring the temp down and going up a big hill, it would just climb, as it would with stop start traffic. Now, the hottest i've seen it was 84 the other night in traffic. Obviously i want it to be able to pull the temp back down no matter what, even at idle, so im curious to know how other cars (especially with big cams and lots of stuff to make them hot) react in heat soak conditions. Has anyone else had the same heat soak effects and what can help? (R31 nismoid, water spray on the cooler i know works well from having it on the dyno) Cheers for the input, G

Hi guys, I just bought a big PWR radiator and twin 11" Spal fans for my FJ20 bluebird. The engine started making a lot more heat than the old radiator could handle since i built the engine. Anyway the PWR rad has certainly done it's job and is now bringing the temp back down, even at idle when the thermos are running. On the highway it runs around 75-78 deg, around town it runs between 77 and 82 and thrashing it normally sees no higher than 82 either. Last night i was sitting in the heaviest traffic since i put the radiator in and it was stop start traffic for quite a long time. The temp sat between 83 and 84 for around 10-15 mins, but the thermos couldn't seem to bring it down any lower. Inlet air temps were coming up to 50 degrees as well, so i can only guess that the whole system became heat soaked and it couldn't move the hot air. My question is, 1) How can i reduce some of the heat soak? - would things like a turbo beanie help? 2) Who else sees similar characteristics? (i realise 84 deg is still cool but i'm curious) Thanks in advance, Gareth

Forgot to mention that when i had this built, i had the outlets moved to suit an FJ20 in a Bluebird. So it's a direct bolt in fit for that combo. G

price drop $350

Cheers for the replies guys, i dont have room for a 16" fan and i was really keen on the skewed blade if i could get them. Many thanks, Gareth

Hi everyone, I have my series 3 Bluebird radiator for sale which was built with 3 cores instead of 2 and has a 10" and 12" thermo on the back of it. I built an alloy shroud under the 10" fan which added to cooling. I have just had it professionally cleaned less than 800ks ago and they pulled the end tanks out and completely renewed the whole unit including paint. (cost $120) If you look on ebay you will see most standard 2 core bluey radiators go for around $370 - $400. I want $400 for the rad with thermos. reply here or call 0408 896 482 Cheers guys. G photobucket.

Hi guys, Getting a big radiator built this week and was looking for some new thermos for it. I need a 10" and 12" skew blade fan and i hear Spal is the best way to go. I have searched ebay and googled but it seems i'm looking for big dollars for them. Anyone know where i can get them cheap and fairly quickly? Thanks in advance. G