JR

Depending on the size of the amp you are running. 8 guage wire is only sufficent up to around 300 wrms maximum. If you are getting into stereo gear, things like wiring it is a good idea to go to 4 guage to start with, becuase if you are anything like most stereo nuts, u will upgrade soon enough, and you will only have to replace it again, meaning double work for yourself. Up grade the return earth from the battery to the chassie tot he same size as your power wire as well. As for cross overs, there is usually no point adding crossovers to a system that was not designed for it, flog off your speakers for a price, and get a good set of splits, you will never regret doing this. My current splits are the alpine formula one status, they have one best loud speaker 3 years running. the crossovers have 2 imputs each from the amp, making them fully active. I am actaully running 2 4 channels just for my speakers in my car, just to get them all spot on. Happy stereoing, i hope this helps

Its a mad idea i will give you that, one i have considered time and time again. there is one problem you will run into though, it is the mounting of everything. The x box was never designed to be mounted in a moving vehicle. They are very sensitive to vibration, ie rough road, stiff suspension. Another Proble is, they love the be kept cool, but dont perform if they are hot. Open an air duct onto it from in the dash. Good luck, i would love to see how it turns out.

you are still best bridging up the amp and wire the sub in parallel. You amp will have max output one it is bridged. I am a firm believer get the most of what you pay for, there is no point having a amp and a sub that will go to a certain level, and running it at much less. Its like supercharging a car, spending 10 000 dollars, then running 1 pound of boost and getting 5 horse power. If that was your plan you should have gotten a pod filter, exhaust and a chip to get around the same amount, do you see what i am saying?

if you never plan to run subs, you can get a good set of splits and a pair of 6x9s and a small 4 channel that will do the job. A very cheap stereo i did for a guy, 1 x Alpine Type S Dual voice coil, 1 Alpine M200, Wireing kit from Autobarn and a set of cheap splits running off the head unit that was in hte car, cost, $600 neat, but that was building the own box out of timber that he supplied. It goes off its head too, the box is ported btw

joshie, those guages sound fully sik. i might get you to hook me up with some bro

Makes huge amount of difference. People say the car is not as loud, outside that is, but i believe that is better. inside makes it so much better

stinger road kill is what my entire car is done in it looks like carpet underlay

Who is going down to the drags after all? I wish i could go down, but yeah i wont be able to make it. So i will you all luck now, if i dont see yous before

Markes the price of ohhhh lets just say Zero guage wire pretty cheap

the sub is a JBL 12, one of the big ones, the magnet is huge on it. It is such a quality sub. i cant find the specs right now, but i know it is around 18 kgs. the stereo is like having someone in the back constantly, if not worse because its past your rear wheels

the idea behind facing subs backwards is all to do with "loading." it is possible to get up to a 3 db gain just by loading the sub off say the hatch in a hatch back. the idea is the subs and the car work together basically creating noise. the problem with loading a sub backwards in a sedan is, if i set the picture, in a hatch, the waves hit the back of the car, then basically bounce off a place in the roof, then into the front of the vehicle. the problem with loading it in a sedan, it bounces of the rear of th boot, to the boot lid, then basically back into the subs where it came from, causing cancellation. it works but is not as efficent. a way i have found that has worked time and time again is to face the subs towards the front of the vehicle, making the box so it seals the boot from the cabin, making the subs part of the cabin, and porting the box into the cab. this makes the cab smaller in terms of sound pressure level (SPL) and there is no problem with cancellation. it is hard to explain what i am rambleing on about over the internet, but i hope it helps in some respect. Take care all and happy "stereoing" JR

joshie the spilts were bought before i even got both them out the doors, i got a resonable price for them. The new speakers are niiiiice. Wades front bar is pretty tuff on his toyota now

Yeah kingy i hope u saw a red cruiser on ur side of the road Joshie, wadeo and myself went out to 4 mile yesterday, but we were disapointed, we didnt see anyone out there. the cruiser is a rig now witht he snorkel on it

Joshie we looked for you at lunch today but it just turned out to be marko and maddog

the dual voice coil type s is a very good sub for its price, If you are willing to spent a little extra the type r is a very good choice. I had a type r and it really went off, but the JBL is just that little better. I put a type s in a mates corolla with around 200 watts rms behind it and it goes of its head, he got the sub and the m200 amp brand new for about $450, and it really does sound good.

NA_R33 i like the sounds of your system, at the moment I have a M500 mono block running a 12" JBL Powerseries, i have type r 6 1/2's in the back, F#1 Status splits in the front, 307 running all the speakers, alpine tv and vcd changer, and sony PS2, and a stinger capacitor. i am looking at going to 2 jbl's and a m1000 (around 1200 watts rms) and a new alpine 4 channel. I had type r splits and loved them, but after going to the F#1 Alpines i would never go back.

dude i dont wanna sound like i am having a shot at you or anything, its far from the truth, but RSR33, mounting an amp upside down it really bad for it, it will work, for a while, but it will seriously decrease the life of the amp. Take it easy jr

no one got my 51KER plates for a little while, now its seems everyone is going down the road of using these combinations

Did you celebrate your photo in the paper Sciby by getting drunk?

what would be the suggestion to do with the green neon now? aparently its not legal in the grill. i was thinking of zippy tieing it under neath, then just running the cords up the side then thru the doors? anyone else got any suggestions?

prob is i am in cetral queensland

what sort of power supply are your running to your invertor? i have seen them with a ciggie lighter, but i think i might hard wire it in, and run a relay, maybe the trigger being the trigger wire from the amps, that should be easy enough to hook up

Anyone can you help me find cleartail lights? Squizz i have look everywhere i dunno how your search went, but man i havent had much luck

lol, that would be a sweet mod man, will have to look into that cheers for your help

general wear and tear thats not a prob, as long as they are all in running order