shotter

Ok i cant find anything in the book to say block this off. But as i said mine is blocked and it works fine. If your using an actuator, then the COM goes to the actuator and the NO goes to a pressure source. If you have a external wastegate then the COM goes to the wastegate and the NC goes to a pressure source. I found at one point that if any of the settings are wrong on the controller you can have huge problems getting the boost up there.

I will have a look in the instructions tonight

Im pretty sure in the instructions your ment to block the hole if you dont have an external gate. Thats how i have done mine and it's run 16psi before.

Oh and it's a performance workshop not just a general workshop

Im not denying the workshop didn't spend alot of time on the car finding the problem. Because i know they did spend alot of time. The thing that pissed me up the wall was that they kept saying the bill wouldn't be all that much but wouldn't give me a $ amount until the work was all done. Apparently the justification for the dyno time cost is to cover the use of the dyno and the operator. What a load of crap.... And i wont be taking my car back for the simple fact they didn't tell me the bill was going to be that huge.

Well i paid the bill and picked up the car. So pissed off at the company. But i have to admit the car does run well. Not $2200 worth but it is good. And i found out that dyno time was charged at around $235 and hour

Yea i will NEVER EVER go back to these muppets. I do understand that time is money and yea they could justify there time and the cost. The thing that has pissed me off the most is there was no communication!!! They kept telling me that they will look after me and that it wont cost much at all. The mods are FMIC, electronic boost controller, turbo has been rebuilt and made bigger and a steel wheel. I think it's rated at 450hp now. bigger fuel pump, haltech interceptor. engine rebuilt with forgies.

Here is the dyno sheets that $1000 of tuning got me. And it's only running 12psi. They said they pushed the boost up but it didn't make much more power. Does this sound like B/S? The engine has forgies in it and the turbo is bigger than stock with a steel wheel. I have pushed it to 16 psi and it felt like it had much more power than 12psi. And i dont know where they pulled the 168.9kw run out off. it was making 200kw when i got there... The usuall tricks to make the figures look better. So please people that see dyno sheets all the time please tell me what you think about these.

Oh hell yea. I am so pissed i took my car to a muppet workshop.

Im not sure. The only thing he said was something about the ECU going back to the battery and not the alternator. The only problem i have is if i winge too much he could easily change a few figures in the ecu and either detune it, or make it a time bomb waiting to happen. I think this time as times in the past when i have been burnt by workshops is to just pay it and never go there again.

Who knows. I havent seen the invoice yet. They just told me over the phone

Rabbit mode sounds fun....

Well i just got told the cost....... F*#KING $2196 $900 for workshop time $1100 for dyno time and the rest covered parts used. So not happy. Now im not saying they didn't spend alot of time on the car. Hell i spent 2 days on it. (what a waste) And they kept saying oh we will look after you and it wont cost all that much. I dont know about you but $2196 is alot in my books. It would have been really nice for them to say "look we found and fixed the problem and the bill is around the $1000 mark, Would you still like us to tune it" My answer would have been "NO $1000 is more than i thought it would cost all up. BYE. I guess it goes to show that it doesn't matter how friendly they are or how much you think they are doing you a favour and will look after you. They are ALWAYS after money and will bend you over. So now my car will probably have to sit in there workshop for the next month till i can get the money to pay for it...

I doubt another workshop would have found it easy. It's not a usual thing to pop the boot open and pull on the NEG cable. And if i did take it to another workshop i would have 2 bills to pay for and not one. I dont know how much it's going to cost yet because they are still tuning it. And where did 6 weeks come from?

OMFG ITS FIXED!!!!! Well it's back to normal anyway. The workshop found the cause of the problem. The NEG lead from the battery. I think before i bought the car it was replaced by the owner but they didn't do a very good job, because the wire just fell out of the connector. So that would explane why it was playing up in the past too. So the workshop replaced the wire and the very 1st run it was back up over 200kw.

But if the ECU isn't telling the solinoid to turn on it it wont matter if the wires have a bad connection or not. We were able to see with the scan tool.

I have tryed another working CAS on my car and my car still played up. I tryed my CAS on another R33 and it ran fine. It had no problems.

Well friday morning the solinoid that adjust's the valve timing was working fine. Then later in the day it stoped working. The ECU was not sending the turn on command. Then this morning 1st thing it was working fine again. It was even sending the command this morning when it wasn't connected to the solinoid. Which rules out the solinoid as being faulty. The few things we noticed was there was a colent temp sensor error. and the O2 signal was at 0Volts. So were changing the O2 sensor and the colent sensor. Then were going to throw it back on the dyno and see if it's happy or not.

Well the machanic wasn't there so i didn't get a chance to check. If one if the cam's was out by one tooth on the belt. Would it be causing this type of problem?

I have tested the CAS on another car and it ran fine. So im starting to think the cam may have jumped a tooth. I will double check it tomorrow and see what i find.

Not sure what the comp was. Another update. they took it for a drive 1st thing and it ran fine, then they took it for another drive and it's now running like crap again.

Well they have done a compression test and said that the compression was pretty low on each cylinder. But they were all the same. They told me that they have been busy the past few days and that tomorrow they will be able to put in a propper look.

Ok im confused now. It's a S1 but i cant find anything looking like that. There is just a plug at the back near the firewall that is connected to the coils.

i think the 33 have it built into the coils. becuase i haven't seen anything like that in the engine bay.