shotter

Where is the ignitor module? and how can you test it? Do you mean the coils on top of each spark plug or something else?

So if the cam marks are where they should be, The belt hasn't jumped a tooth and if the timing light is showing the right angle then this would rule out the cam? Or would i still need to replace the cam for one with a key and the CAS for one with a key?

Series 1

The actuator arm is working, you can see it moving. We have chacked the actuator and it's working fine. And the motor isn't std, it has been rebuilt in the past with forged pistons.

Im starting to wonder.... What would have caused the PCV valve to blow out during a dyno run? Because all these problems started to happen after the car popped we found the gromet had split and the PCV valve was sitting out a bit.

I have already worked on the car while it has been sitting on the dyno. and i have taken my car to another workshop before and they were hopeless. This workshop seams to be good just a really weird and hard to find cause.

But if the timing was ligned up at the 0 mark on the crank with a timing light wouldn't that say that the CAS is working fine and the cam is in the right spot? And how do you know exactly what point to put the CAS in?

The BOV was tightened right up and works fine. It hasn't got a gates timing belt. The rubbing noise went away as soon as you loosened the front bolts. It ide's fine and revs at idle with no problem (except for it backfiring when you take your foot off and the revs fall back to idle. No blue smoke at all. What 3 cam timing marks are you talking about? One option i thought is to pull the cam out and get a CAS that has the key in it. and get a cam that has the opposite key. Just so i know thats fine. But im guessing thats alot of work if it's not going to fix the problem.

Yea im thinking of taking the day off on wednesday and just saying, give me your tools and a hoist and i will check this stuff out. So other than the stuff MBS206 has said. Can any one give me more stuff to check and i will just print out a list and tick each one off on wednesday. And i really hope the cam isn't snapped.

Im thinking maybe the cam timing isn't working at thats why it is running so flat when it really should be kicking in. can anyone explane to me how it works?

Ok had a talk to the workshop my cars in and they hooked up a haltech e11 with a base map and it still had the same problem. He doesn't think it could be the cat, pistons or cams bacause if it was it would run badly at idle. So now im back to the situation of not knowing what the hell is wrong with my car...

Im wondering if it is the ECU that is causing the problems. I would love to get a powerFC but they sell so quickly. IM thinking i might check the CAT and also the compression on each cylinder...

But if the timing is fine with a timing light and we can see the timing change through the ECU wouldn't that mean that it's ok?

Also we checked the timing with a timing light. If this was fine would that mean that the CAS is in the right spot and working fine?

We didn't run it with the timing cover off. But we did notice the first time we pulled the cover off and the CAS out is that it had snapped the tabs, only 1 was still stuck in the CAS. and that it had rubbed on the cam bolts. Then we put the cover back on and the CAS back on. And we could still hear the rubbing sound with the timing cover on. And what would need to be replaced? Both the CAS and cam? And the other weird thing i noticed is the CAS has a mitsubishi symbol on the front of it. Is this normal?

Yea thats what we though but we took the cover off and he said it all looked fine and in the right spot.

Yea we put the timing cover back on. Still did it

I dont have any dyno sheets. and it is still on the dyno. You can hear the exhaust note change at about 3000 rpm, it just goes really flat. We have pulled the ecu out and tryed running the car with another r33 ECU but the car wouldn't turn off with that one connected. So we decided not to do a run with that connected. And it does make a ticking / rubbing noise at idle. which went away when we loosend off the bolts on the timing wheel /trigger wheel / destributor... whatever you call it.

The air ratio's are around a normal level. So nothing bad going on there. We thought it could be a timing problem when the adj valve timing stopped working. So we pulled the front cove off and pulled the trigger wheel off and noticed that the key that sits inside the cam and also the trigger wheel had snapped off. But we didn't think that was a huge problem because we checked the timing and it was ok. The one think that did pop out was the PCV hose and grommet. The grommet split. So we were able to put a bigger rubber hose in the hole and slide the PCV valve into it. It doesn't sound like it's leaking. But i dont know if it's venting pressure into the top of the crank case. And i guess it could even be the std ecu. it's not logging any fault codes but i dont know if that is causing it. Another idea i had and i really dont wanna think about this one is could i of melted a piston?

The car makes boost. Sorry i should have said that. It makes and holds boost fine. And the fuel pressure raises and holds fine too. I checked all the intercooler pipes myself and they all were tight.

Ok i took my car in to get dynoed and tuned today and it was going fine and making about 180kw. Then during a run it made a loud popping noise and started backfiring. then it kept backfiring as you back off the throttle. and The car only made 48KW. Basically we tryed a lot of things to find the problem. the adj valve timing solinoid wasn't working for a little while, then it started working again. The AFM decided to go to 5.1V and the car wouldn't start. After some searching we found a cracked solder track. Fixed that and the car started but still no power. Tryed different AFM. Does anyone have any idea's or have been thought this problem before?

Well i have got my hands on a 5 pin wiring loom. So i will solder that on tonight.

I have figured out what happened. the AFM is a Z32, the plug i have is for a Z32. the problem is someone soldered a 5 pin plug onto the AFM. So now im off to the wreckers to see if i can get a Z32 plug for the AFM.

How much are turbo's that can reach around the 300+ mark? And not be laggy as hell

It is the std one but it has been rebuilt, borred out and the ceramic wheel has been replaced with a steel one. Some company rebuilds them and does all of this. I think it is now rated at 450hp but im not sure. It was done before i bought the car.