shotter

Im not sure how it will go until it gets on the dyno and he starts tuning it.

The plug off a vl has 6 pins also. im starting to think i didn't buy a z32. But it does have a orange sticker on it. Any help?

can some one tell me if the Z32 should have 5 pins or 6?

With those bigger injectors it would be dumping fuel in. And unless you have changed the AFM value in the PowerFC it will be getting the wrong air flow reading too.

Only problem is im getting the car tuned this friday.

I got a 2nd hand Z32 AFM which has 5 pins on it. Then i got a Z32 plug 2nd hand from another guy and i just realised that it has 6 pins and there is no way it will plug into the Z32.... A: what the hell????? B: what can i do? Is there a way to pull the pins out of the plug? Can i just cut down the plug so it will fit? Thank You

I plan to get bigger injectors in the future but for the moment im thinking about just putting in the adj fuel reg and seeing what it can do. Can anyone tell me what the right angle fitting thing is thats on the return line?

The last dyno run i had done was 210rwkw at 10psi. The car has a front mount intercooler, the turbo has been rebuilt, made bigger and the ceramic wheel replace with a steel one. fuel pump replace with a 023, 2 stage electronic boost controller. basically my tuner said it is possable to push more power out of the std injectors by raising the fuel pressure. and i thought i could hook it up before i get there so i dont have to waste money on him doing it. Can someone tell me what else is on the return line. There is a right angle fitting about a foot down from the std fuel reg. What does this do? it kinda looks like another fuel reg just without the vac line fitting.

I have a SARD one. And the guy thats going to tune my car said we can put it on there to raise the pressure a bit because i wont be changing the injectors yet. But as far as i know the std one is connected to the fuel rail so i cant really remove it.

Hello I am wondering how to hook up an adjustable fuel pressure reg. I know that it goes on the return line just after the std one. But i was wondering do people just pull the vac line off the std one? or do they remove it all together? It an R33 And there is another thing on the return line too, Is that another reg? or one way valve?

Can someone please tell me what hose to use and where to get it? The only stuff i can find that is oil resistant cost like $30 a metre

THANKS -DUKES- !!!!!!! LOVE YOUR WORK...... NOT haha Yea it's a RB25. As long as people say it's a normal noise im happy with that.

I have a R33 and I have noticed that if your working under the bonnet with the engine running. As soon as you touch the throttle you can hear a single tick noise. and of you rev the car sloftly it will keep ticking each time the throttle is moved from closed. I cant pin point where the noise is coming from, But i have a bad feeling it could be coming from the coil packs. It kinda sounds like a sparking noise. Any idea how you can test the coil packs to see if they are playing up. I pulled them all out and they looked fine, and the spark plugs looked fine too.

Hello Im replacing my intank pump and i want to get some spare hose incase i need it. But im not sure if it's 7.5mm or 10mm or 12mm? Can someone help please? Thank You

I found today that drove it untill the car warmed up. Only a few minutes. and it was playing up as usuall. Then turned the car off for 15 seconds. Started it up and the problem was gone...... Still confused.

Ok i feel like a complete idiot. I was doing some work on the car and unplugged the plug to stop the beeping while the key was in and forgot to plug it back in. Plugged it back in and everything started working fine.....

Yea i think it's the AFM, i have cleaned it, i have replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs. i plan to change the fuel pump and i have bought a Z32 AFM. So i hope i can get this sorted soon. The other thing it does when it plays up, if you rev it out and keep the revs there it will missfire.

1995 S1

Ok this is becoming anoying, it seams that if i leave the car sit overnight or through most of the day it will run shocking as it his about 5 psi. if i drive it and then let it sit for 10 minutes it will run perfect from then on untill it's left for a few hours again. Any idea's?

I checked all the fuses inside the car and they tested out fine....

Im not sure why but my centrol locking doesn't work any more and my power windows dont work any more. I could only find a fuse under the bonnet for the P/W and that was fine. Can anyone give me some idea's to try figure out what has happened please.

I have checked the terminals and they are tight, and the radio was installed before i bought the car and i have had it for a few months and this so far has only happened one morning. hasn't played up again. What fuses should i be looking at? the ones inside, the ones under the bonnet or the ones in the boot?

As far as i understand the 040 are designed to be an in tank pump and only have that gauze.

I was driving around and my head deck would turn off and them back on when i went over a bump. And i also noticed my clock had reset. The car is a R33. I am wondering where to start trying to trace where the lose connection is. The battery is brand new. Thank You

So for the people who have done this upgrade how did you attach the strainer and did you use a check valve? Or just a straight through fitting out if the outlet?