shotter

Bump

Hey. Just selling some final parts so i can finish my upgrades. Turbo TX High Performance Boost controller. $50 Including postage Turbo Smart Plumb Back BOV with red spring and yellow spring. $150 including postage. Standard AFM R33. Still works well i just bought a ECU with a MAP sensor. I made 220KW with this AFM so it's still in good working order. $50 Including postage.

For the sake of $25 get yourself some std copper plugs and put them in.

I have found in the past when i used a high flow pump as a lift pump it would just run flatout and get really hot, I think it's because there isn't really any restriction going in to the surge tank. So any fuel thats pumped in and not needed just flows back to the tank. So the pump just runs at max flow constantly. I would say if you dont have much luck with anything else try a smaller lift pump.

I am getting the car towed to the tuner because i have put in some 770cc injectors (And the std computer wouldn't be too happy with that he he) But i just want to start it so i know the wolf works and i need to bleed the air out of the cooling system. But i think i will just let the workshop worry about it.

I can still turn the turbo timer on and off. It doesn't make a difference. And my turbo timer has been working fine for the past 6 months.

And i just found that if i pull the bottom blue relay out that is next to the fuses under the dash they will turn off.

I am in the middle of replacing my injectors which has all been going fine. I decided to finish for the night and without thinking i turned the key to ON so i could put up my windows. Then i remember that the supply and return fuel lines i had clamped off and the fuel pump just primed. So i turned the key off and took the clamps off the supply hose to release the pressure. Now when i turn the key to off everything turns off as usuall but not the lights on the dash. The ones that turn on when you turn the key to ON. If you disconnect the battery or pull the main fuse they go out. And you can connect the battery back and they will still be off. But if you turn the key to ON and then off i have the same problem. Can someone please help. Im getting my car tuned this monday. And this is happening with the ECU disconnected.

Any tips how?

Yea i already have. there not sure.

I bought a Wolf V500 for my car. It is the plug in version so i plugs into the std loom. I was sent a R33 shipping map for it but i was told after that this map was setup for bigger injectors. So i have tryed to add more fuel in via the overall fuel trim wheel and it hasn't made a difference.Im getting the car tuned on monday but i want to start it so i know it works. I will be putting in bigger injectors over the weekend and i want to start it again to make sure there aren't any fuel leaks. Has anyone got a r33 with a V500? Or does anyone have knowledge of setting up a V500? Thank You

SOLD

I used it once on a dyno but the haltech interceptor i had didn't have a big enough range to adjust to get the mixture right. And the guy i bought it off was going to use it for a project but never got around to it. It looks brand new.

I need this gone. i need money for a tune. $180 including postage. First in gets it!

Have you checked your fuel pressure after the pump was replaced? If you have and it's still low you could check the voltage at the pump and make sure that is what it should be. If it's low then up the voltage. There is a few great tutorials on how to do this. After you have done all if this then maybe look into a fuel pressure reg. Have you changed your fuel filter lately?

SOLD

It will fit any car. It just has 2 hose barbs. You can also order the fitting so it will go straight into your fuel rail.

But there is already 1 vac line going to the plenum that should be all the controller needs to tell what boost pressure the car is running. Why would you need 2?

you may have one of the vac lines connected the wrong way. Does the box have COM and NC just near where the vac lines connect?

So you have 3 vac lines coming out of the little black box?

The vac line that doesn't connect to anything, Is that the line that the other end connects to the boost controller? Because if the controller has no idea what boost the car is running it wont be able to regulate it.

I have a R33 and i need to wire up a air temp sensor to connect to the standalone ecu im putting in. I have found the 2 pins on the ecu plug but i dont know where they go in the engine bay. Would it just be easyer to run 2 wires through the firewall?

Anyone interested? Overnight postage is now included in the price.

Anyone interested? Overnight postage is now included in the price.

I am selling this because i have decided to buy bigger injectors and put the fuel pressure back to normal. $150 Please PM me.