shotter

I have a EBC and it isn't spiking. I holds boost perfectly

But it's a new pump. And sometimes it will run fine and other times it will play up. i usually find it will play up in 3rd gear.

I got my car tuned a few months ago with a haltech intercepter and the temp that day was around 40deg. The car was running fine untill a week ago. Now when you rev a gear out it starts to pull then it has no power, It feels like it just cuts off. I was wondering if because now the days are around 25deg would the air be colder/denser and it's leaning the mixture up causing this problem? I have also noticed that the exhaust out the back is hotter than i remember. Thank You

The dangerous part is if the fuel reg splits and pumps fuel down the vac line inside the car. But by that time it would have also pumped fuel into the intake manifold. Im pretty sure most people tap off that line. I have also.

Yea thats the one. I guess i will need to just have a play

I just got a pair of Koni Yellows for the front of my R33. I was just wondering what people have found with changing the damper? Im going to set it on full soft to start with. But i was just wondering if people have found firming it up is better?

How does the ECU tell what the boost pressure is so that i can cut the fuel? MAP sensor or MAF sensor?

Anyone?

Can anyone tell me what wire runs from the MAP sensor to the ECU? colour or pin number.

i have figured out the interceptor can modify the signal so the ECU wont see that it is running over 14psi. So im hoping this will fix the problem and i can get the tune touched up.

Well the missfire is still there. So it must be the ecu cut is coming in at 14psi. How do i get around this without getting an aftermarket ecu? I really wish the dropkick that tuned my car told me about this.

everytime i look there are heaps but they get sold within a few days.

Yea the $2000 is a very long story.... I live in canberra. And i would really like to get a powerFC but they sell so quickly. But if anyone could recommend someone who can tune a haltech and is anywhere near Canberra please let me know. Or if anyone is selling a PowerFC for a R33 please let me know.

I asked for the tune to be done on the highest psi. But it was tuned at 13psi because that was the "safest for the turbo and heat" but he told me he ran it up to 20psi and the ratio's were fine. After that i called him back and asked for the dyno runs and then he decided to tell me that anything over 13psi it had a missfire. The reason why im not running to get it retuned is he stuffed me around and a tune that should have cost $250 cost me over $2000. So im not going back to that workshop. And i went to another workshop and found that they were idiots too. These are both performance workshops. And the computer is std but i have a haltech intercepter connected that was tuned.

I got my car tuned and because the car started to missfire over 14psi it was tuned at 13psi. I have changed my sparkplugs and fixed up the coilpacks so i want to see if the missfire is still there under higher boost. Now what im wondering is would it be safe to run higher boost with the current tune? The engine has forgies and the turbo is a high flow that i have been told can handle 20psi easy. Could i just watch the knock sensor and if it starts to knock i how it's running to lean? I would like to be able to do this without having to fork out more money on a retune.

Woudl those figures change if the base timing is changed? And im guessing you should make those changes on a dyno to make sure it's doing the right stuff?

an hour of dyno time? or a few hours?

How much increase in power can you get with adj cam gears? And how hard is it to adjust?

Anyone?

how much boost were you running to make that power? And what spark plugs?

Yea it happened really bad one night when the air was still pretty hot. I found a few FAQ's on how to insulate the coils, So i might give that a go and replace the spark plugs. What better out of BCPR6E or BCPR7E? Or do people recommend any other ones?

the turbo is a high flow, the ecu is std but has a haltch intercepter connected which has been tuned, The engine has forged pistons. Im guessing the coils are as old as the car. Someone told me it could be the higher boost is blowing out the spark?

My tacho has just started doing weird things. I have a 95 r33 S1.5 skyline. The std tacho for no reason will stick on say 3000rpm as you drive normally or idle, then it may move to 4000rpm, then maybe 6000rpm. and when it moves it will be slowly. Then it may go back to normal and move with the engine rpm. Even sometimes when you turn the key on (but not start the car) it will jump up too 2000rpm. Now i disconnected the CAS and pulled the ECU out and when you turn the key to on it will still jump up. Now i have a piggyback haltech and when the car is running i can see the rpm is normal. So it's just on the tacho signal wire that there is a problem. Has anyone come accross this? Or does anyone have any idea's? Thank You

Hello As the topic title says, Can the std coils handle over 13psi? My car runs fine at 13.2psi. Anything over 13.2 when i rev out 3rd it gets a missfire. My plugs are gapped to .8mm

Great write up. I wish this was up before i did mine. Did you use petrol resistant hose and wire? You wouldn't want the petrol to eat away at them.