BI6TIM

Hey guys, wanting to get rid of my skyline as I can't afford to keep it anymore. Has had heaps of money spent on it in the last few years between me and the previous owners, as you'll soon see. Unfortunately, it now needs a short motor. Compression in cylinders 2 & 5 is down to 65psi after a vac hose popped off the bottom port of the wastegate at about 5500rpm, the boost then went through the roof instantly. It now fills the catch can with oil in two days and doesn't want to make any more than about 17psi. Still drives fine off boost though. Anyway, to the parts that are in it: Stock rb30 with r32 rb25 head, std cams. Adjustable cam gears. New timing belt. RIPS intake manifold. id1000 injectors. Tomei fuel pressure reg. ARE surge tank & 044 in the boot. TIAL blow off valve. 100mm GTR style FMIC. Cheap stainless high mount turbo manifold. GT35r with 66mm compressor wheel, a/r 0.5 surge ported front cover, a/r 1.06 internally gated rear housing. Internal gate has been bolted shut and a 38mm external gate fitted, gasses plumbed back into exhaust. 3.5inch bell mouth dump pipe down to cat. 3inch cat back, one muffler at the back. Air filter enclosure. 50mm alloy radiator, never gets too hot, ever, even in heavy traffic. NPC 5 puck button clutch, light under foot. Gear box has developed a light crunch shifting into 4th gear. Cusco 2 way mechanical LSD. New Driftworks CS1 coilovers. New GKtech Castor rods, Camber arms, Cradle mount washers, Drift lever & button, Brake master cylinder stopper. Sparco wheels, good tread Hero's up front and Autogrip's at the back, 235/40/18 all round. Hicas lock bar. Nardi deep corn 350mm steering wheel. Grex shift nob. GTR Zenon headlights. Link G4 plug in ECU with USB tuning cable, controlling boost through computer also. Car was making 400rwhp at 20psi untill the vac hose incident. I'm in the mood to here what people would offer to buy the car as is, needing a short motor and a gearbox rebuild. I'd like to get $10,000 for it as is RWC & remaining rego. I am more than willing to consider any serious offer. If no reasonable serious offers are made, I will put a short motor in it with a new tune and rebuild the gearbox while the motor's out. In that instance I would ask for $15,000 or near offer. Photos to follow.

Form emailed. 1. Cadmoon 2. Bo Duke and the General Lee 3. R33Eddy 4. HiveFleetAbyss 5. HiveFleetAbyss' mate 6. Gts032 +3 7. Phil +1 8. mattis96 9. t5iv +1 10. R34davE 11. Malakai 12. Revenge 13. ARE31 14. stevoR33 15. Mr.H 16. BI6TIM

Hi gents. I have recently purchased a S1 R33 with std coils. It's only just dawned on me that the Splitfire coils that I pulled out of my last car won work. I need some S1 Splitfires for this car and would like to be able to swap with someone. If anyone has s1 Splitfire coils and wants to swap for my s2 coils, I'd be keen to do that ASAP.

I will be calling you at a more appropriate hour of today to organise a viewing of this car tomorrow. Talk to you later.

Sounds awesome. I'm in for sure.

You probably know by now but you need aasa license for Friday night drift at QR. You can buy it on the night when you pay your track entry. $20 for the night or $50 for the year, I think it is.

PM sent.

Do you have the snorkel that goes to the radiator support panel for that air box also? If so I'm VERY interested in it!

Give me a call 33550644

Also to keep in mind is, if you decrease track width you run the risk of "squashing up" the drive shafts, this will lead to shaft and diff damage. If you want less negative camber on the rear get some rose jointed adjustable upper arms and some guard rolling.

Use nothing but SuperPro polyurethane for bushing! Noltech and Nolathane are the same thing with a different name and colour, both owned by Greg Nollan, BOTH RUBBISH!!! Whiteline Plus is not Noltech either. I have been trialing some whiteline plus bushes in my skyline for one of my suppliers at work. So far so good but they've only been in the car just over a month and I only drive it 2 or 3 times a week. I know for a certainty that SuperPro goes the distance as far as length of life and performance over that life. SuperPro is the best bet!

Regarding bump steer, the relationship between lower control arm and rack end/tie rod, angle wise, is the main factor there. If you can get them to 'follow the same arc" through suspension travel you should eliminate bump steer. As for camber, 2.5deg neg camber is not enough on the front if running slicks. I know a guy in an n/a falcon who races at Lakeside here in Brisbane with 6deg neg camber on the front and wears front tyres evenly, he pushes mighty hard though. If I was to set up my R33 for circuit racing using slicks I'd have 3.5-4deg neg camber on the front with probably 0 toe, maybe 2deg neg camber on the rear with about 2mm toe in. About 8deg positive castor on the front and traction arms would be adjusted according to trial and error on the track and ride height.

Good luck with that. Really, the only way you're going to get that info is if you have a friend with a shock dyno and can convince a bunch of people with the same car as you but also with all different types of shocks for you to remove from their cars and test on the shock dyno. Not likely. Why do you feel you need to be so scientifically specific when it comes to shocks, there's a bunch of excellent options straight off the shelf that any suspension shop worth their salt should be able to match up to suitable springs for you. I am manager at City Suspension in Brisbane and can discuss it with you if you want to give me a call at the office during the week, 3808 3266 ask for Tim.

I'll most likely be there, I'll say g'day if I see you.

If you guys are talking about the 'ball joint' that is pressed into the rear knuckle, they are not much fun to replace. I did both sides in my R33 a couple of weeks ago at work. From memory retail from Highway Nissan, south brisbane was a bit under $100 each. Can't remember exactly as I didn't pay retail, certainly not $200ea. If I was to quote somebody a figure for labour to fit both sides, I'd have to say 2 hours, $200. That's only because now I've done it I know how to do it without wasting time. The first time I did it, on my own car, it took nearly 2 hours to do the first side and about an hour for the other side. If you're not talking about those joints, your mechanic is trying to rip you off, unless he's talking about the joint in the 'tie rod' which bolts to your hicas lock bar. If that's the case, I've never tried to buy those.

I still can't believe how many skyline owners are chasing a comfortable ride. Didn't you buy a sports car?! Plus you've got coilovers, which were designed for racing use. Aside from all that, you are right about the adjustment for damping, righty tighty lefty loosey. Don't forget, spring rates have a fair bit to do with ride comfort also.

I have the Whiteline plus in my 33 now. Only been in there about 2 weeks, trialing them for work at the moment, they seem good so far. For everyone who reads this, DON'T USE NOLATHANE EVER!!! They are absolute rubbish! I work in suspension and I've seen them fall apart in cars that have not even been driven yet. If not whiteline plus, use Superpro bushes. On another note, once you have as close to the desired castor as the bushes will allow, there is really no need to be adjusting them. If you want easily adjusted, get rose jointed adjustable castor rods.

You should be able to get much less than -1.5deg camber but I don't know about +0.5deg. That's crazy anyway, if you run that sort of camber on the front you might go good on the drag strip but it will be a pig to drive on the street. No problem if it's track only.

Check what's for sale by forum sponsors, if no luck there, try Option1Garage.com.au The adjustable arms you'll find there are good but are made to a price point. The next jump up from there is Cusco (or similar Jap brand) which you'll pay about $450-$600/pair for. Not many people spend the extra money for the jap stuff, that I know of, I know plenty of people running the option1garage arms with success.

Upper. Also keep in mind that negative camber is not a bad thing, actually quite good for handling, just not too much of it for a car that spends most of it's time on the street. Toe in can counter some of the effects of negative camber and any good wheel aligner will know that. I suggest, get yourself all the adjustable arms you can afford front and back and then find a competent wheel aligner and tell them what you want to come out of it with. They'll then suggest what they think will work best for your usage of the vehicle and you'll settle on something in the middle. Tyre wear will soon tell you if you got it right or not. Need any other help regarding wheel alignment specs etc. PM me.

The guys at JustJap are pretty good to deal with, in my experience. I deal with them a bit at work. If they don't get back to you within 24 hours, give them another call and remind them about the email you sent.

If you call justjap during business hours and ask them about the ER's and different spring rates I'm sure you'll find they can help you with all that.

What you really need jap muscle is the BC coilovers that pistol-pete is talking about. You can adjust valving in both directions separate of each other. My car doesn't have much traction as it is without big tyres but I'm not a drag racer, I'm into drift so the spring rates I've got now work for me now until I get some bigger sway bars and drop the spring rates in order to make it more comfortable on the street but still handle well.

Re-branded what? Pedders have always been expensive, no surprises there. I worked at Pedders for nearly 3years and while I'd buy other stuff now for the price differences, I put a full kit of stuff into the falcon I had when I worked there and it's still performing well 6 years or so later. Pedders get a bad wrap which I think is not always warrented. Anyway, I would recommend the BC Racing coilovers for the price. I just put some BC BR's in a mates 33 and I like them. Standard they come with 8kg front and 6kg rear spring rates but you can order them from justjap with just about what ever spring rates you want. Tein SuperStreet kits come with 4kg front and rear spring rates and Tein SuperDrift kits come with 7kg front and rear spring rates. The Tein kits are known for being very comfortable, and they are, both of those kits were designed by Tein japan in conjunction with a tech from Fulcrum to be more aimed at Australia's rubbish roads. I currently have Tein type HA jap spec coilovers in my R33 which are old japanese coilovers and have 9kg front and 8kg rear spring rates. They are too hard for Australian roads, not very comfortable at all. I'll be most likely changing them for a set of BC BR's with 8kg front and 7kg rear spring rates in the near future. Hope some of that info helps.