32_Dave

so are rb25s and they last longer NA section always provides a good lol

yeah but how many 32's around have no hicas... very limited. no point putting a s14 or 33 frame in the back, unless a company brings out a solid riser ofset bush, i think powered by max will in the near future.

are you f*cking retarded. Rb20 in a R34... the Na is probably quicker lawl.

the riser bush see pic 1 bellow. replaces the factory subframe bush see pic 2 bellow. in doing this you raise the entire subframe approx 0.5-1" higher. how this works is the shape of the riser bush, one end has a shafered edge where the standard washer and bolt go see pic 3 and the other is dead flat making the top lip of the subframe sit flush on the cars rails, see pic 4. Having the subframe sitting higher will correct all the suspension geomatry from being like this \ / on a low car to this _ _ see pic 5 making the suspension work properly how it was designed. Replacing all the factory bushes in the rear end to urethane or even sepherical bearings. (most people just use urethane) Onto foam filling the subframe, you use a marine grade which sets extremely hard, this makes the subframe basically 1 sold piece reducing and movment within the frame itself. It is a 2 part foam that you inject into all the hollow sections of the frame. Next is correcting the same thing for the front end. You drill your front Lower Control arm (LCA) upwards. See pic 6 Then the only thing left to correct is your tie rods, simply buying new tierod ends can fix this. See pic 7 picture 1: Picture 2: Picture 3: Picture 4: Picture 5: Picture 6: Picture 7:

FFS dont put a s14 cradle in a 32. what a waste of time. get a non-hicas s13 (w. r200 4 bolt pattern) subframe buy some riser bushes foam fill the frame and put it in. Will all bolt up and will correct your suspension geomatry, no point going s14. get a set of rear toe arms to replace that hicas rack. 40edr32, if your in brisbane PM me ill take u under my wing and help u out

have not required to re-drill. car is just bellow flat at the front but must come up a tad. yeah just grind off the bump stop but make sure the rack isnt going 100% travel (therefore being its own bumpstop)

also dont notch your LCA thats dodge, just take off the bump stop.

nothing wrong with the s13 rack if its good condition here is a pic of the xmember. can barely tell can ya. moved forward a good 15mm yes, i designed my own based on these they are a little diffrent but as pic above u will get similar results cut and shut is a basic fabrication term for cut and re-weld. redrill LCA piviot bolt do not re-drill castor that'll f**k the pickup point. todd from SD, had powered by max, went to nigels and had more dramas, should of just kept the max ones.

1. 33 LCA or s14 same thing 2. remove bump stop 2. 33 steering rack or s14 same thing 2. Gktech spacers some jap branded ones are bigger 3. Cut and shut steering rack 10-20mm forwards depending how game u are (corrects tie-rod angle) 4. DO NOT BUY NIGELS KNUCKLES - they are shit. 5. look into properly branded knuckles that correct suspension geomatry and dont f**k your ackerman. and u will have something like this...

looks like it. if the arm isnt flat you need to get it as close to flat as possibly you will need to do some measuring etc. but its usually around 20mm or even as high as you can get the arm, you should also look into your rear geomatry, it will be f**ked at that height. check simons thread in DIY.

PFC arnt all that man, ill rate emanage. keeps stock ecu cold start settings etc. MINT !!! piggy back hitup STZ fo sure. im in the middle of getting an emanage myself

STZ automotive tune them

r33 and s14 would be the same arm and both should bolt up no problem, if ur car is low low you re-drill a hole higher then original to re-gain factory suspension geomatry. ohh and here is the latest seup... r33 arm + 20mm epicc !!! and with a few secrets...

how about a autogear box, there a good anchor point...

Hey, chasing a sealing flange for HKS 38mm external wastegate. i know its a long shot buy u never know. please pm. here is a pic for refrence.

110 + 110 = 220 i did all 4 bearings for less then $440. good luck with sale.

you can unclip it under the car and move it forward a bit, so its more of a sweeping bend, but thats how it is mate. was that my guide? how did u find it?

cbc have them for 110ea. will fit. s13 s14 r33 possibly s15 / r34?

looks like non-projector with supermade lense. ps: where u buy them ? been looking around.

found one. if i had any user privliges i would of edited my thread.

quite sure you can get racks rebuild for around 250-350. take it out urself saves a bomb.

speedo drive from gearbox?

could if u wanted a stronger box. yes will work, also good option if you want to upgrade to rb25 or 6 later down track. will need to mod speedo drive tho. bazz: split the electronic speedo sensor?

Hey everyone. Have a S2 Rb25det long motor. - no accesories - sump to cams (dont have covers sorry) - approx 140,000 has had 100,000 service - motor was making 300hp before removed from car from KKR turbo will get pics asap $400 ono

Hey, chasing a speedo sensor from a manual r33 rb25det. the auto ones are diffrent and my original broke removing from box. pm me, dave cheers