32_Dave

probs would make 170-180kw. what your aim? bang for buck - gtr inj - fuel pump - rb25 turbo - dump / front - intercooler - nistune chipped ecu stock ecu is limited around 200kw.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelTankRestoration.html

sold turbo sold both lock bars - autobox $30 - ac $10 - castor brackets $10ea - 32 xmember $20 - ps pump $50 - r32 subframe (hicas) $30 (fresh paint) - R33 / S14 subframe (hicas) $30 - R33 / S14 Lsd $50 - R200 shimmed diff $30, recently shimmed, needs to get lapped.

sold turbo sold both lock bars - autobox $30 - ac $10 - castor brackets $10ea - 32 xmember $20 - ps pump $50 - r32 subframe (hicas) $30 (fresh paint) - R33 / S14 subframe (hicas) $30 - R33 / S14 Lsd $50 - R200 shimmed diff $30, recently shimmed, needs to get lapped.

looks like a bold in cage, cut and welded, without any proper floor bracing... wouldnt even pass cams. your intentions are irrelivent to the asking price as well as the motor being for sale seprate. when you come to realise 6grand is rediculouse and willing to split or even negotiate PM me.

thanks for the doors. trims are mint. cheers

no chance on 6grand then, complete ones are now around the 10 mark.

how much for bare shell not rolling. then you can split all the other parts. inc. doors guards bonnet body kit if any (skirts front bar etc) glass

buy rubber bungs from clark rubber, for the oval hole get a bigger bung, it will form to shape, exactly what ive done. works a charm

and no it doesnt scrub im thinking of pulling them further to make it more street friendly

i was waiting for that its not epic low, but as it sits its perfect. again 17 x 9.5 + 15, sorry no pic of the front in this shot. just out of paint in my homebooth

here is my rear arms. subframe riser bushes FTW

check my topics. turbo is a mint s1 off R33. add says $280 manifold / dump were free with purchase, however to make it cheaper ill post turbo only for +$16.50 if keen drop a pm by me.

pm'd

Front brakes / 5stud sold Rear brakes / 5 stud sold - turbo $280 w. manifold / dump - lock bar w. joints $120 - lock bar wo. joints $60 - autobox $50 - ac $20 - castor brackets $20 - rb20 xmember $20 - rb25 ps pump $50 - r32 subframe (hicas) $50 - R33 / S14 subframe (hicas) $50 - R33 / S14 Lsd $80

Front brakes / 5stud sold Rear brakes / 5 stud sold - turbo $280 w. manifold / dump - lock bar w. joints $120 - lock bar wo. joints $60 - autobox $50 - ac $20 - castor brackets $20 - rb20 xmember $20 - rb25 ps pump $50 - r32 subframe (hicas) $50 - R33 / S14 subframe (hicas) $50 - R33 / S14 Lsd $80

you are by far one of the most expensive private traders on this site. stop bumping and drop the price so somone actually buys it.

simon post pics of how your LCA now sits with your car lower. mine are pretty well dead flat. also with the front have you re-drilled your LCA / Castor arm up higher to recorect the front? ps: im not gona add a jacking point in, its all back in the car on another note... hows ya lock situation. i designed a weld on knuckle (based on a jap brand) which corrects geomatry in the front end and also gives epic lock. im looking at getting some made (not sure on cost yet), if your keen pics on 32. (17x9.5 + 15) lca lengthened 20mm so -5 offset effective

guard = needs more flair. more lock to come yet. then im gona possibly get my knuckle design manafactured to sell and im talking to u on msn about connectors.

f u c king unreal article bro, i have done all these mods minus jacking point good idea. and its unreal i recomend this for all lowered cars.

hows is it a waste? - less crap to go wrong - less things to leak - less shit in the engine bay - less weight then you can take ur hicas ecu and all the wiring and throw it as far as possible. and no it doesnt effect your steering.

split 9.5 pair?

hey marto, i gotta get back to ya on the bee*r, talk on msn

nice simply layout bro. you should continue with the removal and do it the whole way to the pump for people who are weight weinies inc taking the veins out of the ps pump and blocking the rear outlet.