Neejay

Fans are dual 12" FALs, has its own shroud. It's a brand new R32 aluminum radiator. Water pump is brand new oem (done at the time of the swap, less than a year ago.

Hmm...I have one fan that comes on with the ignition and one that's on a manual switch. I typically turn the second one on at around 170. I've taken my front bumper off and I never get over 180f now. I'm thinking about getting a vented hood now.

I need the oem turbo and exhaust manifold heat shields and hardware (if possible). I also need someone to be willing to ship to USA

Do you know if the R32 turbo and manifold heatshields will fit a R33 manifold/turbo? And if not, would you happen to have them + hardware? Will you ship to USA?

I don't have a clutch fan, just dual 12" Flex-a-lite fans. I had to raise the rear of the hood/bonnet. It helps when city driving, but causes the engine to run hot @ 93C on the highway. I pulled off the exit and raised the hood with the car running and you can instantly see the temp drop via aftermarket water temp gauge. I don't have the stock heatshields on the manifold or turbo (need to buy some) and I'm going to have take the bumper off until I can get my hood vented or buy a vented hood.

Oh, for some reason I was under the impression that the temp shouldn't get over about 82C. I just searched more on here and see some people run 90C+...guess I was mis-informed. Ah, cool. Thanks for the correct information. There's already hardly enough room as is. This radiator + e-fan setup is already running cooler than the other thicker radiator I originally had. I guess I'm not getting too hot then. Thanks a lot guys! I'm going to re-bleed the motor just in case.

I've researched and I've noticed that there are a lot of people against using the Nismo thermostat on a street driven car. Temps here are about 30-32C and my temps reach up to about 88C (FMIC, apexi cone filter, 3" turbo back exhaust, stock RB25 turbo, 10-11psi). My coolant system is a new water pump, R32 aluminum radiator, new OEM thermostat, 1 gallon 50/50 coolant/water mix, distilled water, 1 bottle of Redline Water wetter, dual 12" Flex-a-lite puller fans. I've seen the argument that the nismo thermostat could cause closed loop mode (dumping fuel), but that's about it. Is it not recommended on a R33 GTS-T because it's a STOCK? Would it be an exception if it's in a silvia/180sx chassis since the RB is crammed in there?

Did you ever solve this? Im having the EXACT same problem.

Did you ever solve the problem? I'm having kinda the same issue.

One more question before I attempt this tomorrow (I just installed a FMIC and now my temps reach about 195F/90C): When you did the flush, did you remove the block drain plug? I tried using a cordless impact wrench, and that wouldn't even work.

I need to do this as well. I have/had quite a bit of rust in my system. I flushed most of it out when I drained the radiator, but I can't get to the block drain bolt. So I just kept flushing the radiator. Are you in the USA? How much did that Prestone flush kit cost?

Mine stays around 85-86C with just city driving + rear of the hood raised (temporarily, to fit the engine). I have one puller 12" fan, and one pusher 12" fan + aluminum radiator. 1 set to come on around 83C and the other one is on a manual switch...for now. When I get the car back from the shop I'll be hooking up a DiF unit.

Does anyone know of any hard pipe intakes available to buy WITH the nipples for the bpv and blow-by scavenging?

What if there is a drop or increase in revs? Which is supposed to happen?

ECU coolant temp sensor was also mentioned by someone else. Thanks.

The car cranks right up on cold start. Once I drive around and/or it reaches normal operating temp, turn the car off, then immediately try to turn it back on, it doesn't start until I blip the gas pedal. Any ideas? (RB25)

That's pretty much what happens with mine. I'm using NGK bcpr6es-11 gapped down to .8mm What plugs are you using?

Simple. Few options here: #1) PCV valve + exhaust side valve cover -> T-fitting -> catch can -> intake pipe [block intake manifold nipple for PCV] #2) PCV valve + valve covers (separate hoses) -> catch can -> intake pipe [3 high ports required on catch can; block intake manifold nipple for PCV] #3) Stock PCV valve setup; exhaust side valve cover -> catch can -> intake pipe Obviously #3 is the easiest.

You'd have to get an inline PCV valve and put it in between that filter device and the intake manifold...otherwise the glass filter thing will see boost and burst. So it'd be [intake manifold -> inline pcv valve -> glass filter -> valve cover where old pcv valve was] You can do either or, or do both. The glass filter deal would filter out gunk going into the intake manfiold, and having a catch can in between the valve cover and intake pipe would filter out gunk from getting into the intake piping. I'm not going to mess with the PCV valve side for now...I replaced my PCV valve with a new one. Old one was clogged, causing smoke. I'm just going to set one up like I described a few posts back (both valve covers -> T fitting right before catch can nipple 1 -> catch can nipple 2 -> intake piping With the ports like that, it will clog. When it catches the oil, it will block the lower ports.

Catch cans typically come with one hose already (at least from the 2 I've bought). I took it to a store that sells everything for houses and went to the plumbing section, and matched the hose that came with the catch can. I would probably go to an auto parts store and buy some stronger rubber hoses though, as heat can make the original hose flex and possibly melt (these hoses are plastic; the clear ones with fiber threading)

That works...but depending on how much blow-by you get, seems like you'd have to change it quite a bit right? Be careful with that filter on the end. I've read where numerous people have reported that the oil vapors will eventually clog inside the tiny filter and cause a blockage. Why not just run the atmosphere hose down below the chassis without the filter?

No, it's basically like what you currently have, but instead of the hose going to the other valve cover, it will go straight towards the catch can, then BOTH valve hoses will combine via T fitting right before going into the catch can. A filter instead of the PCV valve cap will cause fumes and look less clean, in my opinion. I may try to find a plug and just take out the PCV valve all together. EDIT: If you have a 2nd picture, I can't see it. What filter thing are you talking about?

I never got a response, so I'm going to run mine similar to yours, but I'll run 2 hoses separately from the valve covers -> T fitting as close as possible to the catch can -> into the catch can + stainless-steel scrubbing -> and out to the intake pipe. I think I'm going to just cap off the PCV valve and the intake manifold nipple.

Wow! My RB25 is doing the EXACT same thing! I'm going to try cleaning the AAC valve tomorrow and doing an idle adjustment. I'm also going to check the timing. Please update if you figure out the problem!

Does anyone know the part number for the little black pieces of plastic that the fuel rail bolts to? I've lost one of them apparently.