Silhouette-R

Is thread still going/being moderated? WSID 15.5 @ 91mph RB30DE R31 137.8rwkw Had wheel spin off the line (due to the ripper pegger it had, now have a 4.11 spool )

When I went to the drags with my friend (who owns a VZ SV6 = alloytec 195 3.6lt) he ran a 15.9 but the biggest let down with those cars is the clutch it slips far to easy. He had a bit of an exhaust upgrade but not much. If they had a decent clutch, light flywheel, zorst and short diff ratio (3.7 - 4.11) they would reel off a low - mid 15 down the quarter. The best I've got out of RB30DE so far is 15.5 @ 91mph, but that was with a shit diff ratio (now have a 4.11 spool) so no traction over the 60ft with the single pegger and it was still rather warm, my motor should be good for a mid 14 as it sits.

Go a 3L, more displacement means your guaranteed to make more power, torque etc. I personally haven't driven a RB26DETT but have been in one that makes some decent power and looking at what other blokes have done with the RB30DET/T's with less mods have made more power. I have a 26/30 combo in my R31 (naturally aspirated) but it's still the same principal, I'm still running standard cams (R33 GT-R S2) and it doesn't have a problem revving to 6500 - 7000 rpm, then if you bolt a turbo to the side plus cams and bam, 400+ rwkw

Righto considering I have a very hi comp RB30DE and a close mate of mine actually owns a Alloytec 3.6, I can tell that yes you will beat a standard one and one with very minimal mods i.e. exhaust and intake. We went to the strip and I trumped him with my SOHC 30E (SOHC 30E = 15.6; Alloytec 3.6 =15.9) now in saying that the Alloytec 3.6's have a very very very shit clutch in them and will slip if you decide to even think about pushing them and a tall diff. The alloytec make peak power very late in the rev range so basically they will keep up quite well in the high end of the rev range but down low, it's nothing but 30DE brother!

Haha, true, I ended up with a 26/30 combo in my 31 lol. Is it NSW members only or SAU members only? Cause I'm not a member of the specific NSW group.

I got recommended on something that size, so I could go bigger if I choose to (which I will) down the track. I'm keen to see your power output with those cams and the 25 head, it will easily make more power than what mine will but I want to see how much of a benefit the cams are with the 12:1 comp.

What power did it end up making and what torque? Do you have a dyno graph? Sounds really nice, good to see people doing something out of the mainstream and the engine bay looks really neat.

Thought I would do a small update. Had adjustable cam gears and a re-tune done on the old girl. It is making 137rwkw (yes it has lost some power due cam gears but the benefits out way the loss). More low end torque is evident (comes on nice from 2500rpm, don't have a new torque graph though to show) Here is the Dyno figure + fuel ratios, it was given some more fuel down low (had a bad flat spot): Blue line = new setup; Red = old setup

Those plates belong on a VL or a silvia . Interesting graphics, are you part of the company that does the vinyls or know someone there? The vinyl would have been printed onto instead of using the old method of using layered vinyls hey? If so it would have cost a mint to do those vinyls if they're printed. Curious, but when they do judging, do they compare vinyls with airbrushing or are they two separate categories? P.S. I'm still keen to see your dyno graph.

I don't know about that either, but there has been some people on here that have done the twin cam conversion with that head so you should have a look around and ask some that have done it to see what they did or get a 26 head

1.) The 25DE pistons will fit without boring (I'm using 25DE pistons) 2.) Don't know what compression you'll have but it'll be far too low for what you need, so you'll have to get the block machined. 3. ) I think you do need to run a crank collar 4.) don't know?? 5.) I'm using oil restrictors but you they're not completely necessary but nice to have 6.) do you mean machine the head? or the tensioners? 7.) don't know?

I would say cams are one of the last things you would throw at an N/a motor. As N-Dawg said you should concentrate on a decent exhaust setup it'll probably cost about the same amount

Here's my beast from when I was staying up in QLD.

Is this being added to a completely stock car/motor or are there previous mods?? 15rwkw gain tops if you had a tunable ECU on a completely stock setup.

Seen ol matey with the white R33 and the plates GTS R33, turning right on a hill just after alex beach (I was in the red skyline that went past)

Imagine if there was a pedestrian and they got it, then the were taken to hospital - Smoking hot nurse: So what happened? Dude hit by Boat: I was walking along the foot path and got hit by a big arse boat, like it came out of no where.

That is the coolest VL ever!! 4WD VL, another good thing to go into a Holden that came from Nissan

I hope you are joking....

Holy crap that is a clean S1. Sorry to say that front bar looks good but really doesn't suit the car.

I'm chasing the injector loom cover for an RB26DETT and Nissan on the sunny coast are retarded, so I was wandering if anyone here has bought one and still has the Part Number for it?

150rwkw/200rwhp out of an RB25DE is going to cost you. Machine work (porting will have to be done and getting the compression up, 10.5:1 probably won't cut it, you should be trying for 11:1 - 11.5:1 for 2.5lt and costs for big cams also) About - $4000 Aftermarket ECU - Min $1000 then to wire in and tune another $1000 Decent Extractors - $1000 Labour - min $1000 Cams and springs - $1500 Oil an water pumps - $500 Exhaust piping - $750 Lightened Flywheel and new clutch - $1000 So about 11G should net a figure around 150rwkw probably 160 - 170rwkw, but in saying that people would say you spent all that money and get such a tiny power figure, but really that setup would be good for a mid - high 12 to low 13 sec quarter pass which isn't slow for an N/a

1.) Righto, without upping the compression you're pretty much not going to get anywhere (sorry to rain on your parade). 2.) It's not the size of the exhaust that will get you a noticeable power increase, it will come from the design of the extractors, tuned length are good, mine cost me a grand at COST price. 3.) Adjustable cam gears are a great idea, cheap and can be used either turbo or N/a. 4.) Cams, not a good idea, cause they are designed differently to do different jobs, so they can clash going from N/a to turbo or vice versa (cam gears will help but not solve your problem) this is what I face at the moment (stock GT-R cams with N/a, not enough lift). 5.) Pod and CAI will only help to stop a decrease in power once the engine bay temps start to go up. If your going to TURBO it and still want to spend that 3-4 grand my recommendations would be: Aftermaket ECU, cam gears, exhaust and coil packs - that should net you a 10 to 15 rwkw gain at the treads N/a and all of it is useable to go turbo

R31's FTW!!! It said 3lt export motor, which I'm assuming as the Tommy Kiara M30 BUT they called it an RB30 which would be an import for the Japs??? At closer inspection of the motor thought it looked like it had an RB20 head, cause it's ribbed for her pleasure, lol. They would go nuts over my RB30DE. That RB25DE didn't sound that great I'll have to post up a sound vid of my exhaust note with just extractors when I get back to NSW.

Not much has happened with the old girl, it was supposed to get cam gears and a re-tune about a month back but the gearbox ate itself quite nicely. If the work had been done it should have pulled up near the 200rwhp/150rwkw mark. I'm sure you can actually buy proper trumpets, and bolt them on but you would have to build a plenum around them so the motor would not be sucking in extremely hot air. Hopefully when I go back to QLD over christmas i'll try to get a stainless 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust put on. But the diff is on its way out so i'm going to have to put some coin away for that when I get back to sydney. Also does anyone know of someone that has recently thrown a RB30DE/T configuration into an R34???

OK, to start with I hope the above figure is a turbo figure cause you will never see that from an n/a motor, I doubt you would see that with nitrous and I have a 26/30 n/a setup in my 31. A decent indication of good n/a performance would be 100hp/L at the wheels, so 2.6L = 260hp which is about 195 rwkw. Next I thought this was a N/a Performance thread and generally people with n/a motors don't have turbos (forced induction = not n/a), unless someone can prove me wrong. So generally when someone posts up 'Creating a Monster' in a n/a thread it's something along the lines of an RB30DE with trumpets, ridiculous cams, tuned length extractors, ridiculous compression, precision porting, blue printed and not I want this motor to go with this gearbox, what turbo do I need.