08yannch

fuses and breaker http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm http://www.bcae1.com/cirbrakr.htm but time to get back to topic i vote MDF box carpeted and some banana clips connected to the box for easy removal. just unplug and u can remove the box when it comes to the amp u have two option with the above setup. either have is permanently mounted to the car and use a switch on remote wire to turn that amp off or mount the amp to the speaker box but then u have to disconnect the power wires, remote wire, and RCA. if u want to have a decent amount of room with the box in frp may be ur option but making a box out of mdf is the easiest option and it makes it easier to "tune" ported, sealed what ever u want. u should also consider the sub itself and how much room it needs.

stop toping it up and eventually it will stop leaking

u have me stumped. maybe a more experienced person could help. hint hint

a friend of mine had a real bad oil leak and he always complained about it. and then he just stopped. so i asked whats going on with the oil leak. he said to me its fixed no more leaking oil and i fixed it for free. so im like WTF. my friend said "i just stopped putting oil in" i then i heard the car running then i some more. good times

replace ur sparkplugs. sparkplugs when there on there way out do strange things. so first thing i would do is replace them because its probs the easiest and cheapest thing to replace

unless u have R33 then it dont matter were u put the fuse the battery is in the boot OEM R33 FTW but yer the fuse should be on the battery side. and also be shore that the fuse made for a appropriate amps in relation to the amp. eg there is know point in using a 120A fuse when ur amp is made for 40A. not that ur amp draws a max of 40A it could draw 60A its up to u to read the owners manual and find out

4 r33's the relay and fuse are both under the bonnet. u know the box on the drivers side with the JP righting and the "+" "-" in there. just looked at a pic of a R34 engine bay and it should be the same 4 u

i dont know about R34's but in 33's all the relays are under the dash or under the bonnet. i will have a look now

i had the same problem so i just installed a switch to block the antenna signal wire from the HU. what u will need -switch -wire -screw driver -wire cutters -wiring diagrams for car and HU -and a way to connect the wires. i recommend solder and shrink sleeve but some terminals will also do the job to do this u need to remove the HU. using the wiring diagrams find the antenna signal wire. cut and splice it. attach a length of wire to the wire to one of the spliced wires. now chase the length of wire through to were u want to mount the switch. now get another length of wire and do the same to the other spliced wire. now attach the switch to the 2 lengths of wire. put it all together and done. it took me about 20min the longest bit was removing the HU, wiring takes no time it the antenna goes up with HU off. the wiring is f**ked and u get to have fun fixing somebody else's f**k ups. its a bitch i had to fix my bros HU and it would have been easer to pull it all out and start over. but also bear in mind some HU will make the antenna go up even if its set to CD or USB. my HU done this thats why i have the switch but u still pick up FM real good with the antenna down so i have mine down all the time unless im traveling out of town and want to listen to FM

can u also PM me the details?

2 hard to reply. soz if i offended u

found this on youtube and i just had to post

cheap security cameras are shit. they have terrible resolution and the IR function on them sucks. and lest say u get some real good video footage of the ass holes, it doesn't matter because the po po wont do anything so the best thing to do is get a good alarm

i think the first one it by far the best now u must tell me how to do

do a search on sau im shore u will find what ur looking 4

is the filter clean? also did u touch anything when removing the filter?

thanks. will do

hay guys. this is a simple one. does any1 know of any audio shops in perth that stock digital design subwoofers, specifically the 1508

fronts go with the 6.5" with mdf mounts "its easy" and alot stronger than the stock plastic mount. but for the rear im not sure. i re made the parcel shelf for 6x9s my self, but this is alot of work and if i could do it again i would really consider 6.5" for the back. but im not to sure about fitting them to the stock mounts. u should do a search because i think 6.5" in the back has been covered b4. and when it comes to depth u should be fine, but u may have a taller battery than me so u should check the gap with a measuring tape. think the gap between the battery and the metal shelf + 10mm for depth. if u want to re make the parcel shelf use the original parcel shelf as a templet and what i did was use foam bed underlay on the underside for a nice fit. u will need mdf, carpet, nuts and bolts, jig saw, drill, staple gun, power sander (belt if possible) and a router will come in handy. also if u have child restraints u will have to make allowances for them. pm me if u have any questions and i will do a proper right up

6" is the easiest. but if u re make the speaker mount out of mdf 6.5" is the way to go. if u can use a jig saw and drill u can make a mdf mount. when i made mine it took about 2 hr. 1 hr to make a template and 1 hr to cut out two new mounts. i used a jig saw, drill and router.

sounds like u had a bad day with the po po. well any day were the po po are involved is a bad day

enzed is also a good option cant remember cost but it was heaps cheaper than go gear. avoid go gear there 2 expensive

KRudd and the ALP.

no i have never been hoon lawed, im a good driver... like that matters, im just lucky

thx there is heaps on info on this forum i recommend it to every1