Jap4life

Maybe one of your leads is cutting out or maybe coming off and dropping a cylinder. Or might be your ignitor or similar. Error code check should clear that up though.

From Auckland. I sit in a GTS4 R32. Hopefully to be driving it very soon!

please pm, as most of yall are in AUS. Im located in South Auckland for the NZers.

As per title. Looking for the center bearing bracket. More specifically, just the bottom plate. Very hard to find GTS4/GTR parts in NZ Any help appreciated Thanks Eddy

Ok got it now, M means metric, 10 means 10mm thread diameter and standard metric fine pitch is the thread pitch.

Everything is measured up but just wondering what the above means exactly And how thick do you think the washers should be? In the workshop manual it looks like the half shaft bolts have washers. I also need the nuts and bolts for the 4WD shaft and Ill go the same route for them too but i need nuts too Thanks

Thanks bro will give that a go! Rung up Nissan and in true nz style the guy told me he'd ring me back as soon as possible aka yeah yeah i might ring you back if i feel like it. Hahaha Just a question, do i need to request a certain strength of the bolts or anything?

Well found they are the same bolts as the ones from the front of the diff to the driveshaft and im hoping those are more generic? I realise I need to find something HT and i was assuming anything from the drivetrain would be strong enough?

Oh yeah it is a bolt, hadn't noticed till now. Thanks man. Maybe will be able to find some thing easier now.

oh ok yeah Im thinking of the half shafts to drive shaft nuts and bolts. I went to Nissan and they told me it would be worth going to Nisbits which stock the most Nissan secondhand parts in nz, but Nisbits are useless as hell and they didnt help me at all. The guy i bought the car off had bought a whole lot of bolts from the local hardware store but luckily he didnt get around to reinstalling the diff or im thinking it would have ended in chaos. Im thinking about getting a few bolts and checking them for fitment and if they aren't perfect then I will have to explore other options. Its just the nuts and bolts that i need. Here is a picture. I checked my GTR manual and it seems even that has a different pattern. What will have the same pattern as my car?

Hey there, I have a 1992 GTS4 but i am missing all the bolts for the diff to the half shafts. Finding parts for GTS4s where I am is hard and I havnt found anything with same bolt pattern. I was wondering whether the bolts from any viscous LSD to half shafts from Laurel, Cefiro or GTST or whatever, will fit fine even if the bolt pattern is different? Obviously I will need more of them but will they bolt in fine. Im hoping they will because it will make life easier for me Thanks

Definitely have pressure in the fuel lines. We listened to the injectors and we could hear them ticking. We are going to try another CAS tomorrow but have inspected it already and seems ok. Starting to think maybe something with the fuel system isn't right. Basically just turns and turns till the cows come home and nothing exciting happens

Trying to get my RB20det gtst4 r32 to start this morning. I have never got it running since I bought it. There is supposed to be nothing wrong with it as far as I know although, we found there was no spark. So first we replaced the ignitor and that seems to have fixed our spark problem but car will still not start. The car is not firing AT ALL. Definitely getting fuel, we saw it squirt out the chassis rail lines. Ecu is spitting code 13 and 43. Just don't know where to go from here. We will reset the ecu and see what happens Please help

I vote for jacking up sump or even the front pulleys, but use wood so you dont damage anything. once you have the box on and you cant get it close enough at the top to get those stupid top bolts in you can place some wood or a stand under the front of the engine and jack up the back of the gearbox so they oppose each other and then you can chuck the bottom bolts in and the the top will close up by itself under the strain This saved me a lot of time when putting in the gearbox by myself (no friends)

ok well the guy i bought off said he'll put em back together for me if this fails then ill but another one thanks

unfortunately its just how i got the car. shafts in the boot haha

I recently bought an R32 GTS4 without the gearbox installed. I chucked the box back in but found the drive shaft had been taken apart at the bearing nearest to the box. I'm not quite sure how the bearing is supposed to go back together. I tried putting the ball bearings into the sides of the slots and pushing the cap back on hoping that the balls would click into place but it didnt seem to work. Any one who knows of diagrams or can help would be great thanks Also wondering what oil goes in my transfer case? Auto fluid?

I have been told my R32 GTST has Mspec brakes. How can i tell? or any other mspec parts for that matter.. thanks Eddy

today i: -changed ignitor no result -tried taking off and putting on different coils to exclude troublesome cylinder/s -reset ecu -slapped a different AFM in and it seemed to fix the problem! i drove for about 15mins no problem although after a quick cane once i got out on to the open road (only 150kmhr) it seemed to resort back to it's old ways again! oh and still idles like crap although i was hoping new plugs would fix that any suggestions???

Hey guys, I have recently bought a GTSt that has just had an engine transplant. It was done by the guy before me (some asian guy) who got it done professionally but doent know jack bout cars. So he knocked $2k off the price for me cos is was missing under load and i bought it. here's the description: Turn car on and go to accelerate after letting clutch out then it either accelerates normally (sometimes) or it will shudder and refuse to accelerate. It will then missfire and knock adversely until eventually the boost cleans up and she takes off. If i am cruising i will have to slow down, then boost, then slow down, then boost because the engine isnt able to hold a constant rev around 2500 without beginning to shudder or surge again. If i cruise at 120km/hr in 4th gear she is fine! lol (but my fuel bill isnt) So to fix the problem so far i have: -replaced the coils -fixed one air leak where the boost gauge hose comes out of inlet manifold (there was no hose just a pipe lol) -checked for other leaks havnt found any but im sure there must be another one somewhere! -tested fuel pressure, it's ok -found that my 02 sensor isnt working but i figured it isnt causing too much issue (will get it replaced) I have found that my AFM has C33 written on it, C33 must mean C33 laurel which is funny. I have cleaned it out but it is bothering me so i will replace that. Any other suggestions?

hey can you guys visit my thread i have similar problem thanks