widebody180

It is time for me to get rid of my R32 GTR to make room for a more suitable family car. I have previously had my car on the market at what I thought was a reasonable price, with not even a bite. I've also been watching carsales and the trader forum here and there seems to be a fair few of these cars on the market, and not a lot of them actually being sold. Do other people think that it is fair to say that the market is in a bit of oversupply at the moment? I am really considering doing a trade in at a local dealer. I know that you never get the same value that you could in a private sale, but honestly it seems that I would have to drop the price down to not much more than trade in value to get a private sale anyway. The other important consideration is that I won't have to go through the effort of getting a roadworthy and possibly having to fix some issues. I don't think there is anything big that needs to be done, but the RWC guys always seem to find some problem, no matter what the condition of the car. I presently have my eye on a car at a dealer, the only issue is that the price of the car is about the same as the trade in value. If I do a trade in for a car that is pretty much the same value, the dealer is obviously going to want to make some money, so what is the minimum difference that they will usually accept for a trade in?

Yeah they must have done something with the wheel alignment, when i say light acceleration makes it understeer, I'm talking abou the slightest pressure on the pedal. Well I'll get it into a proper suspension shop and get them to check it out. Next time I'll spend a little more on the tyres.

I've got no problem spending an extra $20-30 a corner, but it is a bit stupid to say that without giving some examples of better tires for that amount of money. I'm not going to go a spend a few hundred per corner, I don't drive my car hard enough to warrant it. It is my daily driver to and from work. I just expect to be able to drive around a round about without heading for the gutter even at very low speeds. It has been a problem since them were put on the car, perhaps the tyre shop hasn't been doing a very good job at wheel alignments.

I've been running these Federal 595 SS tyres for a while on my R32 GTR. In the dry they aren't too bad, although they aren't amazing, but in the wet I feel like I'm driving on ice. Even minor acceleration around a round about and I'm understeering towards the gutter. The back end can be a little skittish too, but that is quickly corrected by the 4wd sending power to the front, which then makes it under steer like crazy. The tyres it had on previously were no name chinese tyres, so I'm not really sure if I'm expecting too much of it. I plan to take it in for a wheel alignment this week. Has anyone else had experience with these tyres and found them ghastly? Would the Kumho KU31 be any better?

I need to get some touch up paint to fix up a small area on my front lip prior to sale. The car is a 1992 R32 GTR with a paint code of AN0, which is called wine red. The problem is that there is also a super clear red AN0 for the R33. Looking at the touch up paint it doesn't look like it will match mine. How come two different colour have the same code? Any ideas for getting a touch up paint that will match the R32 AN0?

JZP, can I ask how long you have had it advertised for and what your initial listing price was? You probably don't want to post that information on the public area here, but if you could PM it to me that would be useful. I think perhaps the lack of a RWC is holding you back from selling it? I'm going to be getting a RWC for mine because most buyers are just not interested in taking that risk.

Never had a run in while driving my skyline, but when I had my 180sx I had a couple of good ones. First one was being tailgated on a single lane section of road. Guy was right up my ass, yelling and waving his hands trying to tell me to get out of the way. It was a 60 zone and I was doing a bit above that. Further ahead the road became double lanes and about 50m before then I caught up to the guy in front of me. I chose the right hand lane while the guy in front of me went in to the left. I dropped back so that I was sitting behind the the guy in the left lane, but not leaving enough room for the bogan commodore driver behind me to get past us. He pulled up and started abusing me, typical rubbish telling me to pull over to fight him etc. I grabbed a whole handful of silver coins out of my center console and hurled them at his car, downshifted and planted my foot on the accelerator. Second occassion was on the freeway with four lanes of traffic. The three lanes on the left hand were going about 90 and I got into the furtherest right lane and was sitting on 110. I looked in my rear view mirror and watched this guy in a Jag come flying up from out of nowhere. He must have been doing over 150 because of how quick he came up behind me. Same stupid thing, honking, flashing his lights, yelling, waving his fists to get me to pull over. I ignored him and sat on 110 for about ten minutes. During that time he must have tried to get past me about half a dozen times, getting into the left lane and trying to get ahead. It never worked for him, he kept getting caught up in the traffic and ending up behind me again. Finally he got beside me and swerved at me a number of times, trying to run me off the road. Then he pulled in front of me and slammed on his brakes. I had already been slowing down to give myself some room from this looney luckily, so I stopped about 4m behind his car. Traffic in the other 3 lanes still going at 90 so I couldnt just switch lanes and take off. Then this guy gets out, some huge islander guy carrying a little metal bat. I was really running out of options as the guy approached me. There was a fairly wide shoulder on my right, enough to get a car down, but that's where this idiot was walking towards my car. I decided stuff it, if it was going to him or me, I'd rather it was him. I put my foot down on the accelerator, started feeding the clutch out and just hoping that he would get out of my way. The guy shit his pants and jumped onto his car to get out of the way as I came screaming past. I lost sight of him in the rear view as he was getting back in his car, never saw him again.

Yeah, personally I was thinking around 15k. Like I said, there are no others for sale locally that I know of, so in some ways that should work in my favour. On the other hand, could mean that there is not much demand locally. There is a r33 gtr locally for 20k. The closest r32 gtr for sale is 400km away with 17k on it., there is also a r33 gtr for sale there for 18k. About 600km away there are two r32 gtrs for sale listed at 20k, although they are heavily modified by the looks of it.

What is a fair market price for my R32 GTR? It is a 1992 model, Red, imported, approximately 150,000km. When it was imported it came with a good quality Jap catback, 18" Enkei wheels and HKS coilovers. Since then I have upgraded the coilpacks, ignition module, clutch and fuel pump. Replaced clutch because it was slipping, replaced the rest because of the standard skyline misfire. Turned out in my case to be the ignition module. Overall the car is in a good condition for its age, I wouldn't say that it is immaculate but it's certainly not as rough as some 1992 examples. I'm not in a rush to sell, but at the same time I don't want it to be sitting on the market for a year while people wait for the price to drop and drop. I live in a regional area, population of about 200,000. There are no other GTR's on the market here at the moment, or for some time now. The sale price will include a Nistune chip, software, cable and wideband AFR meter. None have these have ever been installed on the car. So what is a fair price that it will sell for?

Yeah but the poster has replaced his coilpacks not too long ago. I would definately be looking at other options rather than replacing them again. Wouldn't hurt to try a friends known good ignition module and see if it helps. Same for coilpacks, best to identify the problem before throwing money at it.

Why shouldn't it fit? The coil packs are located externally and then they just use leads from the coil pack to the spark plug. Here is the link to the wasted spark setup diy: Wasted Spark DIY. Don't do it on my say so, I have never tried it but seems like it shouldn't be a fitment issue judging by that thread.

Do they have online store? Link?

Could be ignition module. I did the same as you, changed coil packs, changed spark plugs and changed coil pack loom. Each time it seemingly got better but would always come back. Turned out to be dud ignition module. Everyone seems to think that sticking splitfires in is a magical cure all for misfires. It's a load of garbage.

If you can afford it, get some new OEM coil packs. Otherwise JJR ones are fine. Splitfires are over rated. The people frothing about how splitfires are so great are just trying to justify wasting an extra $100 or so.

You can purchase them directly from Bosch? I thought that they only sold through distributors.

In that case, I would imagine that you could combine this mod with the wasted spark mod that I have seen discussed on here previously. Essentially, you would be using the Bosch ignition modules with a Holden coil pack and then just run leads to the spark plugs.

Probably should have mentioned that this was on an R32 GTR. It may work for other models, but I couldn't be certain. Is the PTU different on the series 2 R33? From what I've read the 300ZX is the same as the R32 one and even the Silvia units are quite similar, although only for 4 cylinders.

I got them from ebay for around $80. Volvo igniter on ebay. I purchased the junior timer connectors from Competition Systems in Australia. These ones don't come with the boots though.

I've got mad graphics skills if you need some work done for the website

Do topics need to be approved in the DIY section? I just tried to post up a new topic and it's not showing.

Amazing fact - Spitfire coilpacks are not the magic cure for all misfire problems. The standard Nissan PTU's are terrible pieces of gear. They seem to break down, not helped by their location right on top of the engine. A PTU may test fine when the engine is cold but suffer a melt down any time the temperature gets up, so it can be hard to diagnose. Brand new Nissan PTU's can be had for around the $600 mark, but they are likely to break down in time also. Second hand units will set you back a couple of hundred, but who knows if they are already stuffed. The solution is get a decent unit that is proven to work. This is where the Bosch Motorsport triple coil ignition module 0227 100 203 comes into play. This unit is race proven on some high powered Euro cars and will not break down when the feeble Nissan unit will. Obviously two of these units will be needed since they only fire 3 cylinders each. If you try to price two of these in Australia, you will probably have a heart attack. However, check out ebay as some come up on there for a good prices. I got two second hand units that had been reconditioned. I didn't realise they were secondhand at the time but they seem to be good. The units are oem equipment on some Volvos e.g. V90 I believe. You will also need two Bosch or AMP seven pin junior timer connector kits. Again, get these online, but shop around and try to get a kit that comes with the boots. You will also need plenty of wire. I used about 15m of 15A. 15A seemed pretty overkill, but oh well. You'll need a soldering iron, solder and some basic knowledge of electrics and soldering. Also get two cheap six pin connectors from somewhere like SuperCheap. I didn't put these in but I will go back and do it now that it's all working. I have included instructions for installing those connectors. Make sure you check out this link. It has the wiring diagram for the module. I've done a basic diagram of some of the wiring down the bottom also. I do not take any responsibility for and loss or damage as a result of people trying this. This is just what I have done. If you don't understand enough about auto electronics to do this confidently, get a professional to do it. Doing it wrong could damage your car. I must give full credit to user ChrisWilson of GTROC for the idea to do this conversion. Step 1. Remove coilpack loom from car. Note that there are 6 coilpack connectors, one ptu connector, one positive wire connector and an earth. Step 2. Familiarise yourself with wiring. Note the three wires coming from each coil connector.There should be one pink negative, one white positive and one black earth. Note that coil one may have a black negative instead. The ptu connector should have seven wires, five pink and two black. The five pink wires correspond with the five pink negative wires on coils one to five and the blacks correspond with the negative on coil one and the black earths. On the positive connector, there should be one white wire and two blacks. The white wire corresponds with the white positive wire on the coils and the blacks correspond with the black earths. The only rewiring to do on the coilpack loom is the five pinks and two blacks going into the ptu connector. You also need to identify the seven wires on the ecu side of the ptu. There should be six blues and one black earth. The blues will need to be rewired but do not touch the black. Step 3. Measure the distance from the wiring to where you want your new ptu's to be located. Try to get them away from the heat. I mounted mine behind the drivers side suspension turret. Also figure out where your new earths are going to be grounded. I decided to ground mine to the earthing kit which was conveniently located on the drivers side suspension turret. Measure the distance needed for this wiring too and cut all wires to length, six lengths to wire to the pink wires, six to the blue wires and two to the ground. Step 4. Strip one end of each of the wires and insert into new ptu connector pin. Crimp, solder and insert pin into connector. Step 5. Tape all of the wires going to the pink wires together and do the same for all the wires going to the blue wires. Step 6. Strip the other end of each wire, insert into six pin connector pins. Crimp, solder and insert pin into connectors, six pinks into one and six blues into the other. Step 7. Put a round terminal on each of the ground wires. Step 8. Strip all of the pink wires, insert into six pin connector pins. Crimp, solder and insert pin into connectors, making sure that the pins correspond with the correct coils. Do the same for the other connector with the blue wires. Step 9. Reinstall coil pack loom. Connect it to each of the coils, ground the earth, connect the positive wire connector and connect the new six pin connector to the corresponding connector. Step 10. Connect the other two six pin connectors together. Step 11. Attach the new earth wires to the grounding point. Step 12. Attach the new ptu's into desired location. Step 13. Attach new ptu connectors to new ptu's. Step 14. Double check everything is connected. Step 15. Reset ECU. Step 16. Take your car out for some spirited driving and enjoy.

Is the boost gauge your using actually accurate? Could be a number of reasons your boost is high. Might be a split in the line going to the stock solenoid etc. As for the misfire, the Nissan ignition modules are rubbish and have a tendency to break down after a while.

It's only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

$500

I can only see ethanol there? Apparently there is a racing supply place in Qld that has it though.