widebody180

Mate, I don't think you should have taken your car back. I would have left it there and told him not to do any more work on it until you sought legal advice. Sounds to me like he hasn't actually fixed anything yet and the car is in a worse condition than when you took it in there.

I'm trying to get a couple of AMP Junior Timer 7 pin connectors and all of the automotive stores have no idea what I'm asking for. Pretty sure they are quite common on euro cars. They are to plug into the ignition module, on the V90 Volvo and others I believe.

The fuel stations have been so slow with the E85 rollout and it sounds like the Caltex version that is coming out won't even have a fixed ethanol percentage so I was looking at other options. Is it possible to buy bulk quantities of ethanol to mix up your own?

Which fault codes?

I found the Bosch units for less than a fifth of the local price, delivered from the US. Ordering them ASAP. Fingers crossed no more misfire.

I'll keep it in mind. If it was the choice between that and a replacement stock unit, I'd take the Twin Power. Just waiting to hear back from a NZ guy who is running a Tridon ignition module. Trying to find out which model.

Yeah I actually found that about 10 minutes ago. That is still a ridiculous price though for what it is. Anyone tried an alternative?

So my R32 GTR has a misfire I can't shake. I'm quite sure it's the ignitor, as everything else in the ignition department has been swapped for brand new. I did replace the ignitor but only with a second hand item. While it is better than the original, this one is still giving me grief. So no more second handers. I can't get a response from my local Nissan dealer on how much a brand new one costs. I don't think I want to know. In fact do they even make them anymore? Apparently the Bosch 0 227 100 203 can be wired in with no dramas. Only problem is that I would need 2 as they are 3 cylinder models. They cost about $350 each from supercheap auto and $650 each from repco. Quite pricey. Option 2 is a TP100 ignitor. I can get them for about $100 from Repco, and apparently they can be used in the GTR. The guy who has done this runs 6 of them though, so it is still going to be quite expensive. I can't find much information about these ignitors and I'm not sure if they can in fact run more than 1 cylinder each. Is there any other options? Ignitors are really quite basic, no way we should be paying over $600 for one.

Huh??? Is this your bike:

I pulled the ignition amp out today and tested it with my dvom. I'm not really sure what it is supposed to read normally, but testing the resistance across the amp showed some unexpected results. Bear with me as I try to explain it. When I connect wires 1-6 on one side with any of the wires 1-6 on the other, there is a circuit. There is quite a bit of resistance but it still makes a circuit. When connected with the earth, there is almost no resistance. The exception is wire 4. When wire 4 is connected to any other, the resistance is twice the reading on the other wires and when wire 4 connected to the earth wire, the resistance is off the chart. So obviously the connection to wire 4 is stuffed. But should all the wires have a circuit with all others? Doesn't seem right either.

I'll give you $400 for the turbos.

Is the igniter the same thing as the ignition amp?

Think I must have reset the fault codes before I checked it last time because I just took it for a drive until it started missing again and then pulled over and checked the fault codes again. Got a 21, ignition circuit. So with that in mind and the fact that I've replaced coilpacks and loom what's next to look at?

Yeah error codes showed nothing, came back 55. It does make a bit of a popping sound.

When it starts it happens through all three of them. It just comes and goes occassionally. Lasts for a few minutes at a time. When I'm sitting at idle it shakes the whole car.

I'm trying to sort out an ongoing misfire problem. It is intermittent, I haven't been able to work out any real pattern to it. I have so far replaced sparkplugs, coilpacks and the coilpack loom with no luck. The only extra clue I've got is that one of my sparkplus was a bit white. Looks like that cylinder might be running a bit lean. I'm thinking maybe that fuel injector is clogged. Does this sound right? Car is R32 GTR.

BUMP Anyone in the market for a GTR at the moment?

Ok I have the following items for sale: 1 x Autometer wideband air fuel ratio gauge kit including o2 sensor $300 1 x Blitz SBC ID III electronic boost controller, dual solenoids, extremely accurate $300 4 x Gold Drifteks 17x9 fronts and 17x9.5 rears, multistud to suit Nissan pattern. With Maxxis 235/45/17 tyres front and Nexen 275/40/17 tyres rear. GTR offset:35 and 18. $1250 1 x DSR380 turbo from Drift Side Racing in NZ. direct replacement for SR20 turbo. AFR meter kit: Blitz SBC:

Car located in Townsville. For sale is my 1992 Nissan R32 GTR skyline. $17,000. 6 cyl, 2.6L twin turbo RB26DETT engine. ATTESSA all wheel drive. HICAS four wheel steering. 5 speed manual transmission. 2 door 4 seat coupe. 140,000 Km. When I purchased the vehicle, it came with the 18" Enkei rims, HKS coilovers and Japanese cat back exhaust as he only modifications. Since then I have only upgraded parts to ensure reliability; Extreme extra heavy duty clutch fitted by Extreme Motorsport when the original started slipping and JJR coilpacks to correct the common skyline misfire problem. NOTE: If you purchase this car before I get the chance to sell my spare rims I will include them in the sale for the same price. Spare rims are gold Drifteks, 17x9 and 17x9.5 with some really fat rubber on them in GTR fitment.

Is there a slump in the market for R32 GTR's at the moment? Are all imports like this now? When I bought my GTR, they seemed to be going like hotcakes but I've had mine advertised on carsales for a couple of months now and haven't even had one bite. I've got it priced according to the redbook value. It is very lightly modified, good quality wheels, suspension and catback. Other than that completely stock and in excellent condition.

Ok just some more info, it appears that the clutch won't release properly. Even with clutch pedal completely depressed, the car starts slowly crawling forward. It must be releasing a little bit because with the foot on the brake, it doesn't stall. Any ideas?

Doesn't grind, it just won't move. It does go into gear when the engine is off so i think that usually means it's not the clutch.

Yesterday my car was running great, gearbox was really smooth. Today when I got in, i noticed the gears were a little stiff to select. Within a few minutes I couldn't select any gears at all. What's going on? Thinking maybe slave cylinder?

Definately the coilpacks. I had tried repairing them before but it never fixed them properly. Ended up getting some JJR coilpacks. The car runs so much better now, it's amazing. Doesn't misfire at all. Definately recommend new coilpacks instead of stuffing around trying to fix them.