Sammy34

1998 r34 GTT Nistune Hypergear ATR28 G3 Profile 550cc Injectors z32 HKS Fuel Pump Turbosmart Fuel Reg FMIC 3"Turbo back exhaust 206 rwkws 1200lb of torque and huge amount of compressor surge

Dyno charts are in as attached. It seems that nothing is wrong with my car the turbo just doesnt suit the engine. The car started a day or two ago with the VCT playing up which was eventually all soughted out. Everything on the car was checked from head to toe, compression checks, boost leak checks, the whole lot and the car passed everyhting. We even tried a manual boost tea instead of the AVCR and it made no difference. The car ended up making another 40hp on the last tune reaching 206rwkws :S and 1200Lb of torque. The car would ping anywhere over 13 degrees of timing and the power curves on the dyno charts are as good as they can physically get. U can see on the chart where the compressor surge is hitting, killing boost, torque and the whole lot. Top dotted lines are boost readings.

ah you would see a slight difference but nothing extremely noticable. As the r34 turbo has a larger rear housing on the turbo. You would be better off with hiflowing the r34 turbo. bump. all items still for sale, would prefer local buyers enless you can organise courier yourself.

My cars currently wearing 4 koya imagine 18x8 rims with 234/40/18 tyres, and I have the chance to get a set of rays nismo LMGT2's 17x8 and 17x9. Should I do it or not. Posative side - I can run wider tyres on the rays Negative side - there a smaller wheel and may look a bit weird until I lower the car further Positive - I can get them for a excellent price offsets are +38 front and + 35 rear so im unsure as to how they will sit on the car.. .the rears are ok but the offset on the front im unsure of.

comes with the adapter on it, was on my rb25 previously so.

Hi few bits and pieces for sale. 1. Set of stocko r34 injectors - $100 2. Standard r34 turbo, good condition - $400 3. HKS SSQV bov - $150 4. Standard r34 wing in black - $100 5. Set of stocko r34 rims - $400 pm or phone 0435 001 658. Items located in Brisbane.

np mate I will get onto it right now.

guys I apologise for the short notice, Ive been busy with work recently and havent had much time at all to post. But the date of the cruise as been pushed back as my car currently isnt driveable and I have found out :S my family has organised a suprise Bday party for myself tomorow. Good news is the EFI dyno is in but the exhaust fan is due to go in next week. So we have changed the date to the 20th of june. Once again I apologise for the last moment thread. ~Sammy

turbo and injectors, $550 pm me to work out delivery.

want a change. looking at trading or buying depending on prices. Looking for volks/work/ anything with good dish. Needs to fit r34GTT 18/8, 18/9. Wheels I have to swap are Koya Imagine, chrome lip with polished face, 18/8 all round with Kuhmo Ecstas 235/40/r18 70% tread all round. Please pm.

I agree with what everyone is saying, I think you should look at dropping in a neo turbo engine to begin with. I think the power level your chasing from the get go is unreasonable, not because its unacheivable but because there are so many things to factor into the build rather than "Im building a show car and I want this much power" There are plenty of insane cars out there running less power than this, plenty of show cars out there running less power than this and it seems that all your chasing is the "aw factor". Also try to do some research on cars that use the t51r, I believe the godzilla motorsports 32 GTR runs the t51r SPL, research some 34 GTT's that are making good power. You will get more satisfaction from a gt2835 or hi flow on the street than you will t51r. If I was in your position, building a fast streeter id be going hi mount 35 series turbo, but thats just me.

cheers, yeh bov is connected right, had a vacuum line that I had bumped off, sits jsut beside the bov on the accelerator cable side of the bov but put it back on and it didnt change anything. Tightened the bov on a litle bit further and tightened all hose clamps but didnt do anyhting. I think your right either the actuator or the EBC. Just dont understand why this happened due to swapping from atmo bov to a standard plumb back. Like I had compressor surge before I changed bovs, now I cant boost properly and Ive gone over everything related to the bov Ive put in and nothing seems to be wrong there.

adjust the plumb back... take off the silicone pipe thats used for the plumb back, make sure it isnt cracked, make sure its sitting down right nad nice and tight is what i ment.

cheers will ahve a look this avo, im gana change to a larger vac line and adjust the plumb back a bit to see if it helps also. will it run 5psi even if i got a 14psi actuator on the turbo?

yep the braided oil line was installed, doesnt seem to be leaking or anything. Dont think I will play around with the actuator myself, dont feel confident doin that. The bov is deffinetly going off, and doesnt seem to go off as early as the HKS one did. Ill check all the clamps and silicone on all the cooler pipes tonight. Is it possible that the old bov was the problem and the car needs to be tuned now???

heres some photos of how i installed it incased i FKD anything up.

I think the problem may have been the old bov, it didnt look to healthy at all, car drives much better with the stocko bov on now but just wont boost at all, 5psi, feels like something is holding the car back, car doesnt even rev hard when i put my foot down, just boosts to 5psi slowly then... nothing.

should I be using some sort of sealent between the bov adapter plate, gasket and intercooler pipe? doesnt seem to be leaking from there though...

pressure source is coming from exactly same spot as the old bov. From set of lines behind the bov. Havent really had a good look at that as I just used the same hose as the old bov was using. Yeh car gets dynoed sometime next week again. Just took the car for a good drive then, car just feels like it has no power at all, boosts to around 5psi max, holds 5psi but wont go any higher, boost controller is set to 16psi.

so ive removed the hks ssqv bov off my 34gtt and reinstalled a stocko r33 gtst bov onto the car. Car seems to run much better normally now but boost seems to come on really really slow, and from what im noticing the car wont boost over 5 or so psi. I've plumbed the standard bov back into the intake etc etc. Feels like theres a boost leak but im not 100% sure. EBC is set to 16psi atm on hi flow hypergear turbo, got all supporting mods. Reason I have switched back to standard bov is ive been getting compressor surge and currently trying to trouble shoot the problems. I was wondering if the symptons im seeing atm are due to the car needing a tune because I have sorced the problem or if the bov I have on the car now is causing me problems or I havent installed it properly. Please note my car previously wasnt completely tuned for the new turbo as the compressor surge was causing problems.

cheers mate. BN kit is on the way now, bonnet fell through so no bonnet for now lol. Car is completely sanded back ready for spray although im considering filling the creveses in the body where the standard silver pin stripe was. Next week end should see the car preped and primer done, looking atm for how im gana go with a 5 stud conversion, theres almost too many ways to do it these days, prefer not to do too much screwing around. May look at the standard replacement 5 studs hubs, s14 hubs need LCA's and aparently cause more track, also required s13 bearings to be pressed in. Hrm need to have a think over this one... photos will be up next weekend. On another note, r34 stocko wheels off my 34, had them lying around for god knows how long, may as well use them. May need to stretch some 215/45/17's onto the front though

ah 2 bad this thing is in vic or id snap it up.

starting a thread on the project build up, got some before shots in it.

someone pulled apart optimus prime to see waht as inside

So for the past month or so I have been considering buying a new daily driver. After weeks and weeks of looking over the internet and through car yards I came to the conclusion that rather than buy a brand new 2 door compact shoe box as a daily driver I would combine a few things that have been in the back of mind, by build myself a car for daily driving that not only is a reasonable size for the day to day traffic but can also be classed as a sleeper. First step was to find a cheap car with body/engine damage within the price range I had given myself. After sorting through car types on the net considering looks, size, potential and taking in consideration how difficult parts are to get for each type of car I came to the conclusion that an s13 was what I was looking for and seeing as you can pick them up within my budget, parts are cheap, they have a good sized engine bay and can look quite tastefull I decided this was the road to head down and within a week I had found exactly what I was looking for. 1989 Silvia - $1400 CAde automatic. 170,000 km's Mechanicly the car was in excellent condition but front fenders/bonnet/boot would need replacing. The interior was also in excellent condition upon inpection and I was actually prepared for the interior to be in quite alot worse condition than it was. 1. First step replacing all the panels that need to be replaced 2. sanding the car back ready for a respray so its been a week since I recieved the car and as of sunday every damage panel will have been replace. I have a bonnet on the way, boot has been replaced as the rust holes were too severe, right panel I recieved today. Door cards have been replaced. Sanding will behind on the weekend. All to do for the moment is sit at work and think over my engine choice for the car. At the moment its leaning towards a 1uz 4.0L v8. I've been in contact with brindog on nissansilvia.com who has been through the 1uz install on his 180sx and been getting a run down cost wise and what modifications that need to be done to fit the engine. So thats all for the moment, will be back soon hopefullys with an update.