fmlycar

Changed to an external gate off the factory manifold and was able to safely add in 8 degrees of timing before I heard light detonation in the ears. So backed out timing a bit and let it be. Pretty happy with the result really. Yet to run it on the dyno, but I prefer trap speed at the track.

In this diagram, which would be COM port and NC? I'm assuming left is COM, centre is NO and right is NC? I want to get mine sorted and have just fitted a hypergate 45 with my power fc boost control kit.

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TD06H-19c internal gate turbo. T3 with 3 bolt dump flange. 8cm rear housing. Has braided oil feed line. No shaft play High pressure actuator set to 18psi Made 240rwkw @ 18psi on my rb25. Selling as I have gone bigger. $550 Price includes postage.

Cheers. What sort of 'do em up' fitting did you end up using? I'm half considering using an4 fittings and getting their braided hose. I could probably mount all mine in the engine bay but it would be a tight fit. So I think I'll mount it in the boot and pop the pump under the false floor where the spare used to be.

Cheers. I'll set it up to cut solenoid for boost controller. I like the idea of being able to increase the timing when ramping up. Hoping for some good gains and less issues with knock. I'm in the process of switching to external gate with screamer, so I might see what that yields first before doing the water injection so I have a solid before and after for each mod to see what effect each had.

Who is running the snow performance stage 2 kit with the resiviour mounted in the boot? I was reading the install instructions and it is recommended to run their solenoid if the reservoir is rear mounted to avoid syphoning in the line. How is it wired in? Is it a NC solenoid and you use the pump signal as a trigger for the solenoid? Also, mafia said the lines and fittings aren't great in the snow kits, any recommendation as to what is the best replacement?

What safety measures could you recommend for wmi using a power fc with boost control? Or should I get a different boost controller and hook up a relay so if it does fail it switches to a lower pressure?

How much vacuum is it showing at idle?

I probed pins 14 and 21 on my ecu, one is 13.8v constant with ac on and off, the other is 5v when ac is off and 600mv when ac is switched on. Roughly.

Thread dig, I'm running a r34 gtt ecu in my s1 stagea. Attessa has never worked since having the car, ecu was already installed and running. My original ecu was a 0v310. What would 8 need to do to get the awd working? Ac has never worked either. Those are the only things left

Cheers. That's a good bit of info and helpful suggestion

Does anyone have the info on supplying tps signal to the attessa ecu to make the 4wd to work with the power fc? Mine has never worked since I've had the car. Have the pin 51 mod done and bled the 4wd system, pump primes and I'm not getting any lights in the dash. I'm assuming it's the tps signal anyway

Chasing the ABS reluctor ring that slips onto the stub axle in the rear of the s1 auto stagea diff. Not sure if all are the same. I have a cracked one and trying to fault find my driveline issue.

Contacted Dynamco via their Tech email, got a very fast response. Issue turned out to be a faulty in-line fuse in an independent fuse holder that is part of the alarm loom. There are 2 side by side and the tech even identified the one I should check. Fuse was replaced and now functions as normal. Old fuse rattles when shaken lightly, did not show continuity and was loosing voltage across it even though it didn't appear bad. One side had 12.53v and the other had 3.86v

Could it be a relay has shit itself? I can hear a relay tick when the ignition is switched off that sound like it in the passenger footwell area?

New PB Still RWD as 4wd isn't working atm 265rwkw 20psi bp98 60ft needs improvement

Nah its being a pos. Still has an issue. Cannot seem to work it out. As soon as the turbo timer shuts the car off, it unlocks the doors and I cannot lock the car with the remote again without turning ignition to the on position, but as soon as I turn ignition off, AR unlocks again. So frustrated, even if I manually lock all the doors, as soon as the turbo timer shuts down, it unlocks the doors.

Quick check with the test light revealed the fuse for 12v socket was no good. Replaced it and checked a few times and everything appears to be back to normal and working as it should. I'll keep an eye on it over the next couple days and see if anything changes

Problem is back so I'm back to the drawing board. Any suggestions?

For those that ever run into this issue, the anti hijack function was enabled causing the doors to unlock once the alarm detected the ignition was switched off. Disabled that feature and issue is now resolved.

I have a s1 1997 Nissan Stagea with a HKS turbo timer and a Cyclops (I think) alarm. I thas just started to unlock the doors once the timer for the turbo timer has expired. From then I cannot lock the doors with the remote. Have tried other key fobs and get the same result. If I set the turbo timer to zero I can lock and arm the car as normal. Not sure where I should start looking as it has always be fault free. I will check all fuses when I get time to rule that out, I just wondered if anyone else had encountered this issue before? I would prefer to retain the turbo timer as I have an oil cooled only turbo and I tend forget to drive it gently when I get a couple kms from home.

I have confirmed with tuner that timing was checked and correct so nothing to worry about there

Bit hard to see, but got quite a lot of knock and had to jump off it straight away. My wideband was showing 12.6@wot before I had to back off. The issue is, why am I getting such high knock reading if there wasn't any when it was tuned the way it is now? Only thing that I have changed since having the car home is new coil packs (splitfires).