fmlycar
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Everything posted by fmlycar
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Misses like mad at idle and drives like a Rex and plenty of black smoke now. New o2 sensor ordered, new coil packs ordered, fuel filter purchased ready to fit. Wideband will be next week
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Already done a comp test and was 150psi on all 6
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Power fc is a gtt model and about the same age as the coil packs if not newer (I can dig out the receipt to check). I've checked voltage at the coil packs at idle and they're all getting 14.19v after taking it for a drive last night it is missing at idle and generally running rough. Will get some new coils packs, plugs and fuel filter and hope like hell that fixes my issue. I could always try my coils in another car and see if it makes theirs run like ass too.
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No Coolant loss, keyway on cas/camshaft is perfect, no leaks from injector caps or manifold seals. Haven't check TB shaft seal but have sprayed that area fairly liberally with carby cleaner with no change in idle. Not sure if Toyota still have a dyno. Coated the coil packs in urethane seal coat and regapped the plugs at 0.7 and I did notice a slight improvement initially but still breaking down under heavy load/boost. I think the coil packs are the culprit in this case. I was in denial as they're splitfires and looked to be in good condition, however that couldn't mean there isn't anything wrong with them. Especially since the ignitor is built into each coil pack. Guess all I can do is order some new one's and see how I go. Bit of a roll of the dice but don't have many other options.
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Yeah thinking that's the next step. Seems like a solid investment and could save me a lot of time and money. And recommendations on what's good to run all the time?
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Checked solder joints for afm, all ok. Checked continuity for coil pack loom and all good. Applied dielectric grease to coil pack boots with no improvement.
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Selling a brand new, unused in box precision 46mm external wastegate. Purchased with the intention of going high mount but plans have changed. Comes in box wrapped with all flanges, v-bands, springs and banjo fittings. Cost $570 from titan motorsport. Asking $430.00 including express postage. 0419 856 391 for pics etc Located Alice Springs -
Checked all earth's. Cleaned aacv while I was at it. Is there any way to check coil packs with a multi meter? I tried checking between + and - on the coil pack but couldn't get a resistance reading at all. Also tried from the spring in the bottom to every pin and nothing came up on my multi meter. Have I missed something there?
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Tried a different set of coil packs (splitfires) and didn't improve. So I put my splitfires back in with a plug gap of 0.55 and still no improvement. Don't know if there is another car in town I can lend coil packs off. Only a couple imports here and even less are modified. Boost won't go over 0.95 bar atm. As soon as it tries to build boost it coughs and hesitates, pops and backfires then will clear up and pull but is now breaking down above 12psi once it finally gets there. My coil packs look to be in newish condition. Don't want to go throwing 600 at new coil packs if I don't have to or if it's not the problem.
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Miss has now gotten worse. O2 sensor isn't showing voltage on the power fc. What else can I do? Its a 1500km trip to the closest dyno and it's my daily so I'm getting desperate
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Checked TPS again and adjusted to 0.5v closed but only got 3.30v at WOT with a multimeter. This was tested with engine off and ignition on. While running I had very similar result. It's conflicting values with what the power FC was reading this morning. I had 0.49v at idle (car running) and 4.11v WOT. What are the acceptable values for the TPS? This could be my problem if it uses tps feedback for fuelling maps and it's reading low.
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Checked fuel pressure and is 38psi at idle and free reving without load it goes over 50psi. would it be worth while trying another set of coil packs?
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Tried a different cas and made no difference. Adjusted tps to 0.45v closed and 4.10 wot and no change Running out of ideas
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Should have mentioned it's a auto converted to manual so I think timing is supposed to be 20 deg btdc. That's what it was set at and tuned at anyway. Is there any way to check the resistance for the CAS to check if it's faulty? TPS values are 0.42v idle with engine off and 4.06v wot engine off.
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Isn't it 20 degrees btdc for series 2? I did 15 to begin with and ran like a complete bag of poo, then set it for 20 and was loads better, but not perfect. I'll check tps values again just to be sure and try borrow a working cas to see if that's it
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Took cas off, removed cover surrounding plug and sprayed inside as best I could with circuit board and contact cleaner. Reinstalled and set timing. Has now moved the misfire to more than 1 bar of boost and cleared up down low. does this sound like I should replace it?
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Tried another set of coil packs and problem still exists. Possibly fuel pump or crank angle sensor?
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Still available?
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I am about to remove a single din headunit and screen with a double din unit. I currently have a reversing camera installed and want to reuse it with the new head unit. However, whoever installed this one has used power from the rear acccesory socket to power the signal for the camera, so it's on all the time while the screen is switched on. Can anyone tell me where I can find the reverse signal wire and what colour it should be? S1 c34 Stagea auto converted to manual if that makes any difference? I Just want to tap into the reverse light power in the rear so it will only come on in reverse. I'd find it with a test light but I don't have a lot of help so it would be a little time consuming. Cheers
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My bov. Quick search of the part number and it looks like it's a gtr item. Going to try and tee up some coil packs and see what happens
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Yep, that was one of the first things I did. Just blanked of bov and took it for a drive and didn't make much difference. Have attached pics for reference
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Closest dyno is 1500km so that option is kinda ruled out at this stage. These are the joys of owning a car like this in the middle of bumf**k
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Yeah it over shot and I backed off as soon as I seen it going past where it should be. Just pressure tested again and found a line teed off from the boost guage line was leaking slightly. Have fixed that. Went for a drive and hasn't made much difference. Only other leak is out a small hole cast into the bov but that can probably be ruled out if it's always been there. Car was tuned to 18psi. Ebc is in preparation for another turbo upgrade so I can run a couple boost settings. Everything suggests healthy motor, and tune was very safe as that's what I wanted. Knock never goes any higher than 30 at any given time but is for the most part under 20. Tool it for a high speed run last month and never went above 18 in all gears right up to 6500rpm in 5th
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Car was tuned in Feb and hasn't faulted since, pretty certain leak was a new problem. It reared it's ugly head after having a boost spike of 6-8psi briefly while setting up a boost controller. I'll try some known good condition coil packs.
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Replaced cracked intercooler pipe, problem is miles better but still exists. Only on boost and only in low boost range. Once it gets 4-5psi in its guts it clears up and revs like normal. Get an occasional backfire as it's trying to build boost.
