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fmlycar

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Everything posted by fmlycar

  1. Pressure tested it today and found a hairline crack about 1/4 inch long on 1 intercooler pipe. Can't put a silicone joiner over it in the interim because whoever made the pipe, squashed that particular piece to an oval shape so it won't seal. Found 2 others leaks, 1 was the idle adjustment screw and the other was the bov but that's out of a factory hole cast into the vavle.
  2. I'll duck into Reece plumbing and grab a pressure cap today then.
  3. I've checked all the hose clamps and vac lines and nothing seems suspect. I might try removing all the hose clamps and joiners and inspecting them all off the car
  4. Pulled gap back to 0.6 and taped coil packs. Better, but still there. Comp tested 150, 150, 150, 145, 150, 150 Still possibly coil pack if it got a little better with some tape
  5. New plugs are in but only gapped at 0.8. Hesitates still coming onto boost but then clears up and revs clean through to redline. Makes the same amount of boost as normal once it gets up and goes. would pulling the gap back further make much of a difference that early in the Rev range if it clears up and revs clean after about 7psi? Idles perfectly, and drives off boost as it did beforehand. Also checked timing, 20deg btdc cold and fuel filter is new. Hasn't got any leaks that I can see, no smoke from and where when it's running.
  6. Thanks. I'll see if I can get some locally otherwise I'll order some
  7. That ain't going to help. Tps voltage is 0.44v at idle. Check power to all coil pack plugs (14.19v across all 6). Unplugged afm and car died straight away. I'm a bit stuck as to where I should check next? I went to repco and they didn't have any bcpr6es or bcpr7es on the shelf. I would have to order out of adelaide. I'm located alice springs so I can't just duck into a workshop with a dyno and it's my daily so I really wanna get this sorted
  8. Cleaned afm, no change. Pulled coil pack leads 1 by 1 and idle got rough with each one. Seems to be when you get close to building boost it starts and then sputters then entire time on boost. Idles like normal, doesn't stall or dive.
  9. I didn't think that one worked. It came up with an error when I tried to post it
  10. Free revs under light throttle fine, heavy throttle it misses and splutters heavily. Idles without fault also
  11. I have a stagea with a s2 rb25. Mods are power fc, nismo 550cc, z32 afm, td06, splitfire and usual bolt ons. Has developed a miss under load (approx half throttle) and when approaching boost. Is constant miss right through the Rev range when trying to boost and feels very hesitant. Can see the guage trying to comes up, stutters and hesitates, then starts boosting but missing all the way through the revs. I swapped the plugs (bpr7es) for some spares I had in the shed. Was dark when I swapped them so didn't get a good look at the coil packs but I think they are fine. Didn't make any difference. Checked afm voltage with car off 0.42v, running at idle is 1.5v and cruise is 1.72v. Sprayed all vac hoses with brake cleaner with no change to idle. Found a single hose clamp under air filter was loose and tightened that. Still no difference. Any suggestions?
  12. Soooo, I have a s2 rb25 in a stagea. Power FC, splitfires, z32 afm, td06, nismo 550cc injectors, gtr fuel, tuned at 18psi. Has been running fine for 6 months until yesterday it has developed a misfire under load and full boost. Seems ok at very light load and cruising. Has constant miss when you stand on it and try and rev it out, also get a lot of black smoke out back. Knock doesn't go above 18 with this happening. I checked injector value in pfc and it got up to 90% just once, normally around 68-70% WOT. AFM voltage with car off is 0.42v according to the power fc and 1.72v at cruise approx. I took plugs out (bpr7es gapped at 0.7), and swapped with some other spares I had laying around (not new but known working) and made very little difference. I sprayed all the vac lines and hose clamps with brake cleaner but no change in idle speed. I did find 1 loose hose clamp after the turbo outlet under the air filter, but after tightening that, no change has been observed. It was dark when I got into changing the plugs so I couldn't inspect the coil packs thoroughly. Might get around to it on the weekend. Any suggestions.
  13. Price drop, $850 posted aus wide
  14. Wanting to sell a precision 6262 that I purchased for a project but plans have changed. Has 0.63 T3 inlet V-band out. Comes with braided oil feed and oil return $1000 ono plus $40 post Call or text 0419 856 391
  15. Yeah thats why I was thinking 17psi low and 20 or 22 high and see what it pulls
  16. I've already got the turbo, I just haven't fitted it yet. Car is a daily but will see drag use
  17. I drove a supra locally here that makes 350kw @ 16psi on a gt3582 with a 0.63 housing on 98. Looking to make 320kw+ in the high boost region, so it must be able to get there if the 3L can do it without it choking. If I have to run a little more boost to get there I will. Just trying to work out what spring I should be running in the gate for low boost to roughly get in the 280kw area.
  18. I am about to go down the 6262 (0.63 rear) path on my rb25. I'm chasing 280kw ish low boost and 320 - 350kw high boost. Engine is built and has supporting mods. Just unsure as to what gate pressure I should run for low boost. Fuel will be 98. Was thinking between 16-18psi low and 20-22psi high.
  19. Got it worked out. The little plastic sleeve with the 3 pins that locate in the steering wheel weren't lined up correctly
  20. I just had my wheel off to inspect clock spring. Got it all back together and reset srs light, but now my indicators don't self cancel. What have I done wrong to cause this? All marks were lined up as far as I could tell. I never removed the clock spring, I just checked it's wiring and position. Any help is appreciated
  21. Chasing a Apexi Boost control Kit to suit power fc for a r34 gtt Not paying drug money for used parts. If it's new I will pay more. Must be able to post Cheers 0419-856-391
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