jnr_chin

Is it possible to use a 5/8 clutch master cylinder with a 3/4 slave cylinder. If not what should be the correct size slave cylinder to work with the 5/8 master cylinder. I used to run a 11/16 with it and now i got a 3/4 which i am not getting as much pressure

Has anyone ever bolt any of the larger gt turbos on the rb20det stock manifold in the gts-t. i am thinking of purchasing something in the range of a gt30 - 35 but i dont want to change my manifold setup so i hope someone can give me some insight.

so if my faults are21, 25, 26, 27 how do i know if they are gone bad or need calibration? or will i have to test the temp.?

they are my fault codes. so is there no hope ? i think i am much better off than a lot of people on here with a/c problems caz mine is blowing cool and nice. what does the codes i have show. if it is sensors cant i install resistors or something?

i have a r32 gts t my a/c works but not 100% it is not as cold as i would like but i can live with it. i had to disconnect the hotwater hoses coming into the box. From what i have seen the flap is not working. My main problem though is when i turn on the a/c it does not throttle up the car so it will shut off. my readings are -21, 25, -26, 27 and this is in the night. questions though 1. i do not need the heater but will the heater flap open caz it not to be as cold as it should 2. does these readings show that any sensors are gone bad? if so whats the fix thanx in advance

I have just installed my ssqv blow off valve and at standstill rev to hear the blowoff i realize that it blows of air out the blowoff but also threw the intake (airflow meter). How do i correct this? Beign a pull type valve should i tigten or release the screw?

straying a little the valve underneath the throttle body (IAC) does it have anything to do with the A/C throttling up when it is turned on? when i turn on my air condition it throttles down the car and sometimes coming to a stop it shuts off. i cleaned the one to the back of the plenum and i have seen no change. what could it be?

remember oil pressure is like blood pressure take it serious. just to add to what has already bin said there is a bolt that controls the pressure at the lower end of the oil pump (when the sump is removed) it is spring t ensioned but if it slackens the oil pressure will also drop.

i am told that the no. 7 and the no.11 spark plug at the store are the same how true is this i am wondering why would ngk make both if the were the same but your thoughts plz caz that will determine if i will buy them

dont like to cross breed but just for the record. can toyota 2jz or 1jz injectors fit the rb20, 25 etc.

i was hoping that it would be my diff wanted oil or something simple so i guess my pressure plate aint strong enough to hold the clutch

i just changed my clutch and pressure plate in my r32 gtst rb20det the car runs normal at low speeds but slips when going on boost. i would like to know other than the clutch slip is it possible for the diff to slip if not serviced. or out of gear oil or somtin

i have energy suspension bushings but they did not have r32 bushings so i used the s13 silvia but it seems like they are not identical majority works but i am having a bit of slack in the front control arm ones.

when installing the front control arm bushing (the one with the balljoint to be sure) it says to keep in the sleeve. when installed it has some amount of play is this normal? i also just used my hand to install them no vice or press if too slack isnt this gonna make my car handle bad?

is it possible in anyway to turn up the A/C throttle independent of the car throttle? when i turn on my ac it needs to throttle up