jnr_chin

Is it possible to use a 5/8 clutch master cylinder with a 3/4 slave cylinder. If not what should be the correct size slave cylinder to work with the 5/8 master cylinder. I used to run a 11/16 with it and now i got a 3/4 which i am not getting as much pressure

Has anyone ever bolt any of the larger gt turbos on the rb20det stock manifold in the gts-t. i am thinking of purchasing something in the range of a gt30 - 35 but i dont want to change my manifold setup so i hope someone can give me some insight.

so if my faults are21, 25, 26, 27 how do i know if they are gone bad or need calibration? or will i have to test the temp.?

they are my fault codes. so is there no hope ? i think i am much better off than a lot of people on here with a/c problems caz mine is blowing cool and nice. what does the codes i have show. if it is sensors cant i install resistors or something?

i have a r32 gts t my a/c works but not 100% it is not as cold as i would like but i can live with it. i had to disconnect the hotwater hoses coming into the box. From what i have seen the flap is not working. My main problem though is when i turn on the a/c it does not throttle up the car so it will shut off. my readings are -21, 25, -26, 27 and this is in the night. questions though 1. i do not need the heater but will the heater flap open caz it not to be as cold as it should 2. does these readings show that any sensors are gone bad? if so whats the fix thanx in advance

I have just installed my ssqv blow off valve and at standstill rev to hear the blowoff i realize that it blows of air out the blowoff but also threw the intake (airflow meter). How do i correct this? Beign a pull type valve should i tigten or release the screw?

straying a little the valve underneath the throttle body (IAC) does it have anything to do with the A/C throttling up when it is turned on? when i turn on my air condition it throttles down the car and sometimes coming to a stop it shuts off. i cleaned the one to the back of the plenum and i have seen no change. what could it be?

remember oil pressure is like blood pressure take it serious. just to add to what has already bin said there is a bolt that controls the pressure at the lower end of the oil pump (when the sump is removed) it is spring t ensioned but if it slackens the oil pressure will also drop.

i am told that the no. 7 and the no.11 spark plug at the store are the same how true is this i am wondering why would ngk make both if the were the same but your thoughts plz caz that will determine if i will buy them

dont like to cross breed but just for the record. can toyota 2jz or 1jz injectors fit the rb20, 25 etc.

i was hoping that it would be my diff wanted oil or something simple so i guess my pressure plate aint strong enough to hold the clutch

i just changed my clutch and pressure plate in my r32 gtst rb20det the car runs normal at low speeds but slips when going on boost. i would like to know other than the clutch slip is it possible for the diff to slip if not serviced. or out of gear oil or somtin

i have energy suspension bushings but they did not have r32 bushings so i used the s13 silvia but it seems like they are not identical majority works but i am having a bit of slack in the front control arm ones.

when installing the front control arm bushing (the one with the balljoint to be sure) it says to keep in the sleeve. when installed it has some amount of play is this normal? i also just used my hand to install them no vice or press if too slack isnt this gonna make my car handle bad?

is it possible in anyway to turn up the A/C throttle independent of the car throttle? when i turn on my ac it needs to throttle up

so u have eliminated the alternator belt as well? the battery in this case is considered a load so it is normal for it to throttle down the engine but whats the reading after awhile when connected properly. the battery supposed to go back up to 13. .....the light and stuff are more loads so that is normal but the battery not taking the charge and is considered new. that is strange

check the headlight as said b4 but to be sure check the bulb. If no bulb u need to know if the light is projector or not. the projecto uses H3 or H3c same fit just little diffrence in connection

this rattling is mainly from worn or broken plastic runners that stablize the glass in the track. if u can it is possible to design a shim out of teflon or plastic that can manage the wear and insert them.

as simple as it may sound i recommend if you have not done it as yet is to get a new radiator cap. the autometer gauge is a bit more sensitive than the factory gauge giving more immediate readings. if your system is ok hoses, fan headgasket, water pump, the alternator belt that runs the pump etc. for the water to run in the overflow bottle the cap has to give way first.

Question have you changed the pump to the single flow for front wheels only and disconnected the hicas computer and remove unecessary lines? the lock bar would not solve the problem as such caz i have pinned mine and havent have this prob. from start up though the steering will feel free because the engine is at a higher rev hence the belt hopefully tensioned properly will spin the pump faster not sure were you stand not knowing your setup. check your lines though for crimps etc. and how often do you top up if any at all?

the other bushings on the back i lit it with the torch and made it burn out as said earlier. but what i did afterwards was to get a hacksaw take out the blade push it through the hole and the attach it back together and cut the metal part and it just falls out. i know the subframe arent much different so i just wanted some heads up its not hard just the technique

i know it is some how obvious but i ask anyways will i have to take down the subframe? never experiment with those b4.

anyone has any tip on changing the subframe bushings to polyurwthane and this is in a gts t r32

as stated in the topic which of the two are identical when it comes to suspension bushing the r32 91 skyline with the 240sx but which one of the 240's s14 or s13 see if you can help me out plz thanx

no one has used energy suspension bushings and can give me some tips did they cover all the bushings needed to be changed? on the sub frame did you just take out what was there and put in energy?