Miguelone

Have you had a wheel alignment? May just be that because you've replaced suspension components your alignment is out.

Nah, just tell em they're driftworks arms.

I've got one in Vic.

Wut Terry?

Only if ancient Samurai warriors used plastic swords lol. Not too sure on this one but it must have been an option. I have an S1 dash out of a 94 model and looking at the back it has all the mounting points and the outline for where the passenger airbag goes. Gold badges were a tick the box option. All badges could be optioned in gold separately. Bonnet badges, boot badges, GT badges, Navan badges etc.

Filter relocation is an issue?

Those harnesses are $180 each. Available out of Japan.

I've got a set of JIC arms for the rear. Considering either Sunline Racing or Cusco for the front.

You want the long side facing inwards, otherwise the shock sits too close to the upright.

Smash it in there!!

Over 2K without top hats?

It's piss easy mate. Just pulled mine back out so I can clean em up and remove helper springs before car goes back on the road. Took maybe an hourish by myself. Rears: 1. Remove back seat(2 12mm bolts at the base either side, pull up and out then 2 on either corner below the top half) 2. Remove parcel shelf, pulls up and out. 3. Undo strut top nuts(2 12mm bolts either side under the parcel shelf) 4. Loosen off wheel nuts, jack up car under diff. Lower car onto stands. 5. Crack the lower strut nuts, 17mm. Will most likely require a decent length breaker or a breaker with a length of pipe over the end especially if they've never been removed before. 6. Pull bottom mount off hub(May need a screwdriver etc between hub and shock if it's tight). Shock will then drop down. 7. Install in reverse order. Fronts 1. Open bonnet, undo strut top nuts, (2x 14mm either side) 2. Loosen wheel nuts, jack car up at front, (I usually use the engine crossmember or if the cars too low the tow hooks under the front bar) Lower onto stands. 3. Crack lower nuts, 17mm again. Will generally require similar force to the rears. 4. Loosen off same as rears. 5. Assemble in reverse order.

Rears come in 2 sorts. Eye or fork lower mounts. Fronts are the same for all R33's & R34's regardless of variant. Tbh I would be going somewhere else and probably getting something a bit better than pedders. Entry level teins, Silk roads etc.

I see your.. and raise you.

I'm not entirely certain though. I have a set of injectors here stamped with A46-00 which aren't bright red more of a maroon colour which I bought believing they were S15 480cc's. Have yet to have them flow tested though so unsure what they are.

a46-00 from what I can work out are 245cc injectors. Most likely they've been highflowed at some point.

They could also be S14 480cc injectors. Really though the easiest way to tell is to take one of the covers off and look up the model code.

My taxi used to get pretty tail happy in the wet.. before it had a rear swaybar.

Tbh I think they just decided to mask up some squares on S1 lights and paint the rest of it. Here's some more awful awesome. Some Meiku stuff does look fairly decent though.

Yep, red one is TK 4 door. Afaik there's only a few Lightning Yellow 25R's

Shannons?

Finding information about most niche Jap performance gear from the late 90's early 00's on the net is pretty difficult. There's a page on the 25R in HyperRev 37 (GTST/GTT no.2) and an article in the Skyline GTS special edition of HPI. Quick google jp search has netted some possibly useful results. http://blog.livedoor...s/50439440.html http://brougham1990....og-entry-4.html http://ajp.cocolog-n.../post-32a2.html http://www5f.biglobe.ne.jp/~ide/car_history/car_7/car_7.html Floating around Minkara pages should be able to tell you some stuff too. http://minkara.carvi...tommykaira/25r/

Machined alloy is more likely to crack and flog out than 15 year old rubber dontchyerknow.

Sup gaiz?