shaunzo101

Hi all, just want to know how to check error codes in R33 series 2, and what each code means? Thanks!

spark plugs...get bcpr6es spark plugs and tell us if the 6000 rpm splutter goes away.

Im prety certain its got to be something inside the motor. My commodore made the same sound when i spun the big end in it as well, and it seized not long after making the same sound. Lucky for commodores it was only 600 for the motor.

A rebuild is definitely too expensive for me, even just replacing the bearings i think is going to be too dear considering i will have to get a professional to do it which could cost who knows much, unless anyone knows of a price on what this would cost to be done? Is there any sort of guide on how to remove an rb25 i can follow?

I have an R33 series 2 standard rb25det...everything on the motor is standard apart from pod filter instead of air box, and front mount intercooler. I was driving along the highway tonight cruising along and all of a sudden the car started making this really fast knocking sound. I changed back a gear to see if it went away and it just made the noise louder and faster. I pulled over down the road and let it cool down a little, then tried to take off again, and it was gutless. It makes a knock knock knock sound at idle too, and if you put your head near the bottom of the motor you can hear it louder. I called up my mate and he came down and had a look and believe it is the big end bearings? It was a mission to make it home because of how gutless it was, but i managed to nurse it home. I checked the oil in it when it had rested for a while and the oil was at the right level. I dont understand how this happened i was seriously driving along cruising at an easy pace not reving it hard at all. I just need to know my options...should i look at getting the bearings replaced? Or change the whole motor, or better yet buy a long motor and put that in? What sort of money and procedures would i need to fix this?

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Hi, im after a pink label series 2 r33 air flow meter in the brisbane area for $100 ono.

still got that afm for sale? if so where u located?

wow thanks cheers for that!

Hey, ive searched through forums for the past half hr and can't seem to find a straight answer. I'm about to buy an r33 series 1 afm, will it fit onto my r33 series 2 with no problems at all? I just need somebody who definitely knows so i don't go ahead and waste my money. Thanks.

pm sent

i believe it could be the solenoid on the starter motor.

I recommend taking it for a few long drives and see if the popping/backfiring still occurs. But as for the white smoke that's usually a sign of a blown turbo.

I have the same problem in my 33 gts-t. Also every time i fuel up, it just cuts out straight away. But not so long ago i had to use 95 octane fuel because they ran out of 98 octane, and never had that problem. So i think the problem is also that because 98 octane fuel burns slower it is not making sufficient burning thats just my thought. But don't use 95 on a turbo car it can cause detonation - bad.

10psi is the general safety barrier for factory specifications

ok then yeah i know someone who had a 33 and thats what he told me so i went along with it and got the 4100 turbolight 10w40, il confidently go the full synth in 5000k's time.

Is it true that fully synthetic oil f###s the seals in the turbo? I was told that when i bought motul 8100 5w40 for my 96 series 2 r33.

my idle hunting problem in my car just slowly went away over time, i think it got better when i was using the air-con strange enough.

if the flywheel wasn't new and you didnt machine it, this could be possible.

i spoke to an exhaust guy at his workshop about dump pipes, and he says avoid stainless steel because of the high heat temps the turbo can build up, and a high-flow cat to go with it so there is a more free flow. You will also need to buy a gasket for the turbo/dump from nissan or somewhere too.

Hi, im about to do an oil change on my r33 gts-t series 2 stock motor, what exact oil should i buy? I think i will be going with penrite they have a widely accepted reputation.

ive seen them on ebay for $229, thats the dump and front pipe in one long pipe from turbo to cat.

Well ive gota fmic on my r33 series 2, bolted just under the rio bar. No idea what brand it is but it works well! The piping runs through the factory holes on the pod filter side of the engine bay...none of that cutting through the left hand guard under the washer container.

its fairly stock, apart from front mount intercooler and boost controller, it doesnt blow any black smoke at idle. im going to look into checking the error codes i was given that idea by a friend. thanks il give that a go tomorrow. theres a place near me called rpm performance north of brisbane, so that was my last resort if i couldnt sort it out myself. il give this a go tomorrow as well. the bov is stock. after i try all this if im still having problems, il look into new 02 sensor.

Hi all, yes i do realise there is a number of threads about idle issues which i have read through but none of them come out with a successful solution. I have an r33 series 2 rb25, the car will usually have that hunting issue where its going between 0 and 1000rpm, sometimes it settles at idle and other times it will just stall. I have cleaned out the iac valve completely, replaced the gasket on the iac valve and secured all hoses i have touched and it hasn't made any difference at all. Does anyone know what to do to fix this?