shaunzo101

I went to an exhaust shop but they couldn't help me. Was hoping somebody would know?

I am just looking for advice on where i can buy studs for the turbo flange on my exhaust manifold for RB25. They need to be longer than factory. The reason is i am putting on a spacer plate so i can fit my bigger turbo onto the standard exhaust manifold.

Where are you located? Will only pick up.

The spacer will be going on the flange which bolts the turbo to the exhaust manifold, where there are 4 bolt holes..

Are you sure you can just take off the front housing? Is there a way to do it or do you need to have it done by professionals

Its just steel made up by a mate, im going to have it welded to the flange of the turbo. Its 3mm thick which should be enough to provide clearance for the larger turbo. I forgot all about the length of the studs, at the moment im hoping the factory standard studs can support an extra 3mm for the spacer. If i shouldnt use any liquid gasket then what's the orange stuff between the exh manifold and turbo? Looks to be some sort of gasket stuff between it because you can see it between the flanges as if there was too much originally and the rest squeezed out when the turbo was put on.

Thanks for that i spotted that one yesterday and pm'd the guy. There are quite a few for sale in other states but i would never send someone money who i don't know there's no protection. I dont want/cant spent 2 or 3 grand on a decent turbo so i found the kkr430, ive heard both good and bad but im willing to give it a shot. Yeah that makes sense about being oil cooled now i think of it, it needs oil to run through it anyway. Can anyone provide advice on the other questions i had?

yeah only watercooled, the guy i bought it off reckons alot of aftermarket turbos only watercooled but i knew it could be a selling point. But i thought why would they make a turbo with just watercooling, it must go alright. Ive heard of the KKR430 goin pretty hard on the track.

I looked so hard to find one they sell really quick. Ok thanks for letting me know about tune otherwise i would have went ahead and just put it on without tune. I will get an ecu before i put it on. Does anyone know if there is a difference between Power fc for series 1 and series 2?

I have a R33 series 2 with rb25det and standard turbo and I have got a KKR430 turbo to put on. At the moment i have: v-band exhaust pipe a custom made spacer to go between the turbo exhaust gasket and the flange of the turbo - because without this the front housing will hit the exhaust manifold so it needs to sit out further from exhaust manifold I need to know: *Do i need to purchase a new exhaust manifold to turbo metal gasket? I was going to purchase one anyway but if its not necessary than i won't. I was going to just incase of exhaust leak. *What is the likelihood of the 4 studs breaking when i remove the factory turbo? If i need them where can i buy them? *I want to run maximum 16psi, i have the following mods currently: front mounted intercooler, 3" exhaust (excluding hi flow cat converter), pod intake filter, oil cooler (although this turbo is water cooled only). Is this sufficient? *Will i need to get air/fuel ratio's adjusted? I only have factory ecu, im looking to buy Power FC but they are so hard to find so i stopped looking. *Where's the best place to buy a quality v-band clamp? Im from Brisbane. *Do i need liquid gasket, i can see there is already liquid gasket between exhaust manifold and the turbo. Where can i buy this? All advice will be great!

Hi i am searching for a heater core which is the same or similar dimensions as the r33 heater core. I can't afford a genuine brand new heater core and i have already put in a second hand heater core which has failed after 2 months so no more second handies. So im going to buy a heater core for another model car so it will be more affordable, and then make up custom hoses to suit the hose positions in the engine bay. Any advice?

If you put it up on ebay i will buy it. Just so i have the ebay buyer protection because i am located in Brisbane so would require it posted.

why are you selling what are the wolf like?

<quote> Step eight: So now that you have the upper and lower plastic pipes removed from your firewall, you will now be able to remove the heater core element from the heater box. BUT FIRST...There is a plastic clip running across the element holding the element it in place, you can do one of two things here: snap it off in frustration or take your time and try prying it off slowly. I cracked the shits and just snapped it off – you don't need it anyway, all it does is hold the element in place during manufacture, that's what I think anyway! The aluminium heater core element will happily slide out of the heater box and you will be holding it in your hands. </quote> There is actually one small screw on this plastic bit holding it in place. Its on the top side of the plastic bit on the right hand side.

Got around to replacing the exhaust manifold -> head gasket, no more squeaky squeaky! thanks helpful SAU members

My idle is normal Noise is definitely from turbo area Mine makes the sound cold and warm I took it to an exhaust shop today and he noticed straight away there was a stud missing from the exhaust manifold. Not sure how many other studs are missing but at the moment im looking at buying new exhaust manifold gasket, cant seem to get one for less than $116 - same price at nissan dealership and kudos motorsports.

yeah, mine is standard plumb back. i think the problem most people have when they install a BOV is they don't cover up the standard return pipe from standard BOV to turbo - plumb back pipe.

took it for another run, still same problem. I rang a workshop they believe it could be a gasket, possibly on the front housing. how many gaskets are there for the turbo anyway?

i really hope it's the manifold gasket that would be much cheaper, im about to go out to my car and look at it again while it's cold and take it for a drive to see what happens. i thought if it would be any gasket leak it would make like a tractor sound it usually does. yeah you can make the turbo spin at idle but i had to rev it pretty hard.

i'll have to wait til tomorrow morning to find out, will post up. but very certain it is the turbo because it only squeals when it is boosting.

all cooler piping is tight. no leaks. have also edited my post to mention that it is coming from the turbo as i could hear it when i revved the engine while i was under the bonnet. i think if it was the cooler piping there would be a performance difference, the performance hasn't seemed to change still feels normal just with high pitch squeal.

As title states, when my car is boosting it sounds like squishing a rubber duck. it doesn't seem to feel any different but the high pitch sound is there. -there is no smoke -idle is normal -have recently put in penrite 5w60 (track rated), 162,000kms on dash Im sure i heard this while i was on the track today but when i left there was no squeal Now when ever i boost it, it makes the sound i described. What seems to be the problem? Edit: after reading previous posts, yes the bolts are all still tight and the noise is definitely coming from the turbo itself. When i parked i got under the bonnet and revved it hard enough to make the turbo spin and the squeal is there. It is most definitely coming from the turbo area.

that sounds tempting, i would go to the qr day but i wont have any mates to bring with me cause they will be at work. lakeside is only 5 minutes away from my house so its nice and convenient

thats what i was thinking..it doesn't matter if the quality of the pad is the best u can get as long as there is plenty of pad on it. it will be fine for one day at a track.

Got an oil cooler from nizz pro performance today everything needed to bolt it straight up, just gota sort out where to bolt the cooler and filter relocation.