Cartman

do these require an ignitor like S1 setup or will they work with out like S2 setup?

a 10 year old set of coils with 140,000 km's on them had better power readings than a set of 6 month old splitfires, they are NOT THE SAME COIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!

pm sent.

agreed, its definately not wasting oil. just added insurance.

nice breather holes.

sounds about right, last set i bought was 420 for 26 and 210 for rb25 26 head bolts are only available in arp2000 series which is the reason they cost more from memory....

Really dude... sorry that you feel cheated, but.. 180 for 2 of his hours labour, flanges $40(realistic sorta retail) for 2 than the gaskets/bolts and other crap as well as the new hanger for the cat to gearbox i remember you mentioned $30(guestimating on what was used. your left with $125ish, your basically covering his time spent at the workshop as an hourly rate if you ask me.. if i was wanted to work on a saturday when i knew i had other stuff i could be doin and made to wait 5 hours before being able to do my "2 hours" work i'd be charging at least my own desired hourly rate and than some considering you were working in his place of business which was powered up for 7 hours which only 2 of which he was getting paid properly for, you think its not costing him anything with you being there, but you'd be suprised how much power a workshop can use, not to mention your working in his space that he pays rent on or owns. im not tryin to snap at you.. but seriously think about all the over heads he has to cover the workshop hoist i used a while back i got charged $350 for, which included maybe 140 worth of parts and 60 for roady, rest was workshop/hoist rental yeah i am aware they are individually owned however from memory they are all linked together in some way thru the franchise as there was some nationwide warranty crap they provide or offer.. cant remember how it works but i do remember repairing a couple other carline jobs that had somethign to do with it all..

Stay well the f**k away from those proboost turbos, seen them before and they are nasty chinese junk, if you want the proper performance like what noel is gettingg you need to go a proper GT3582R

I know you love the zero lag factor with this turbo however if it was me i'd be looking at stepping up the exhaust housing size a fraction.. with the boost dropping off as badly as it is the amount of extra heat generated could cause alot more problems further down the road, the other thing that would make me lean towards a bigger exhaust housing is the massive drop in power up top, even tho you've got boost dropping off i still dont think getting it to hold boost is goin to drop it from dropping power considering how far out of its efficency range it would be considering the problems your having with the boost drop. oh and honestly.. i know most of us say we dont give a shit about fuel economy.. 18psi before 2500rpm is unreal,, but think of the highway cruising speeds.. that poor little turbo is goin to be ringing its tits off at 100kph as you cruise down the road and definately not helping fuel consumption, i find it annoying enough with the stock turbo on my temporary rb25. anyway thats my extremely tired 2cents at 6am in the morning.

I will say one thing about carline exhaustshops considering i use to work for one.. the owners/operators really do know how to charge but if you ever have any problems you can take it back and they'll fix it no questions asked providing it was part of the original work they did or were suppose to do you have to understand you were working on your car.. in someones place of business.. i'm suprised he let you do that at all.. things must have been quiet. as there is no way in hell i'd let someone do that in my place of business unless things were dead quiet. i did similar things with a really good mates boss when i needed a rwc and got sluggged with a decent bill which at least 70% of was workshop hoist hire

if its the one i think it is that bolts up to a greddy manifold, i'm goin to be having a play on a lathe in next couple days sometime to make an adapter to suit the rb25det TPS as it bolts on to the provided area just needs a different needle setup to work...

agreed, the exhaust housing to me really seems to be the bottleneck in the setup.

I dont believe so... needs to touch 280-290rwkw and maintain its topend while still beeing internal gate to get up on same level, i'd more so go with its a 2530 replacement considering the figures and much better response...

looks to be like the compressor has plenty of puff and the exhaust housing is out of flow..

Is that the I beams only that have that feature?

With or with out airbrushing and make up?

read were he has the breathers coming off the cam covers, its not even getting a chance to drain back down the external return cause its getting forced straight out the 2x -12/-10 fittings into the catch can.

have you sorted out why it doesnt want to rev past 5500? and sounds like the breathers are in a spot which helps fill the catch can.. being at the back of the head if its filling up while your flying downt he strip gravity is goin to force the oil into your breather lines, but still does not sound good

so i'll assume i read that sheet wrong than and the lesser power figure in yellow didnt go with the higher torque figure in yellow on the dyno sheet you posted...

just looking over that trent, goin by the colour of the lines... the 3071 which makes less power has a much fattter torque band? or.. are the colours switched around and i'm reading it wrong

im really looking forward to seeing how the 10cm t67-25g goes on my slap together 2630 now

If you've done it plenty in the last 3 years you should stop being a lazy flamin mongrel and do the work they've assigned to you just incase you are doin something wrong and they point it out. written report on something like this shouldnt take you anymore than an hour so why dont you just do the report. and sorry my bad, i should have put lazy dumb f**k tradesmen there.

Takes to long to generate enough heat to get penetration, than you need to spot it with filler rod... and basically it created to much heat. your much better off tacking it with a mig, basically tac the whole way around it in a sequence to keep the heat even so the panel doesnt warp.

do it yourself so you actually understand it, theres enough dumb f*ck tradesmen out there, dont need anymore.

reasonable offers?