Cartman

learn to type something so its readable, all i noticed in that was q45, 35r, 650cc highflowed injectors.

good to see its up and runnin

Avoid the rice bubbles and she wont go snap crackle n pop!

and its generally a fine thread feeding from the block, rb25 out of the block is 12x1.25 for oil feed and 14x1.5 for water feed.. well it is on the one i'm doin at the moment! into the turbo might be 1.5 i'm not sure.. never bothered to check that one lol

$800, i need this gone

oh.. be warned there about 100bux aus retail from nissan, 35each + freight out of japan tho.

Use rb26 ones.. i have the part number somewhere here, they are only sold as squirter and bolt tho, you can not buy the squirter seperately. why do you only need 1 tho? oh.. and while at nissan i could only find rb26 ones.. not rb25 part numbers.

Have to agree to an extent. i enquired about being a reseller and well he didnt like, he will sell me them to wire in and play with on my own and my customers cars at a similar price to what you stated paul... but he definately wasnt keen on the sell at trade price to business who purely wanted to onsell to others around the country. it definately would be hurting the sale of them. i cant understand why they are keeping it the way they are... makes me tempted to swing towards the Link's however being local to ray i can simply phone ahead and pick up same day.

odd thought... but had you used a die grinder on or near your intercooler piping or anything that would have been open on the intake setup weather it be plenum, TB, ic piping, comp housing, intake pipe.... that pitting either looks like the result of ceramic bits off a sparkplug or metal filings from something not being cleaned properly after working on it..

wow congrats to him and "best official voice" that is f**king hilarious any word on what tyres it was running?

post a picture might help your cause, i'd go with its stock tho.

LOL if blokes who work at the exhaust shop your goin to dont know how to "fix" the problem, i suggest you find another one to go to because that is the easiest to fix for any half decent exhaust fitter. it will have to be cut out on the cat side otherwise the flanges wont line up.

unless it has the external 3 or 4 bar map sensor... i thought the autronic board was only a 2bar internal mapsensor..

agreed, if your buying a cheapie, the 4 legged buggers are the way to go, if your willing to spend the coin... Bluepoint makes a wicked collapseable 3 legger. they hold the rb motors very very easil, i also have one of those 3 legger cheapies... i only use it when i know i dont have to move the motor around as i dont trust it much even tho it hasnt buckled or anything with a motor sitting on it for about 3-4months straight. even with blankets and other shit thrown over it

talk about massive waste of money.

you guys actually pay for them? hahaha

3/4 inch.

Would you mind sending the final drawings to me aswell please? and yeah freight on that thing would cost a fortune lol

f**k me, i can imagine the weight in it :S however i'd hate to think of what the price would be like to do one out of titanium lol

yeah, i'll be drilling and relocating it now didnt want to as this is an ultimate budget slap together but.. i guess i gotta do it

agreed, the tighter the clearance the less noisy and provides minimal but fractionally more lift. i'd leave them as is.

fair enough, didnt think of that haha, i guess i'll have to drill it now.

explain why they have to be modified?

Hey all, just wanting to know weather i can get away with out relocating it providing i can get a belt the right size so heres a few questions for those of you who do alot of these Is it really nessicary to relocated the tensioner if so what are your reason? has anyone got an idea on the length/size/number of teeth required for the belt to be used with standard location of idler and tensioner