JGTC

id like to enter myself (daniel) and another user, matt aka: eagle_hawk if there are any spaces left thanks for putting this together guys much appreciated!

awesome bud, cheers

im fairly familar with ferrers rd, which road/st are you referring to when you turn right?, will prob drive down tonight to scope it out as i live quite close by

awesome mate exactly the type of thing im after, much appreciated, any other suggestions also welcome

Hi all, was wondering if anyone had any nice places/spots/hills in the suburbs (away from the city) to watch the fireworks? would just like somehwere thats quiet but with nice scenery to bring in the new year

always great to see owners achieve such great results from off-the-shelf products - really proves that a lot of the work is through the technique and just general learning to use these products rather than having to buy all boutique items car looks fantastic mate - it would break my heart way to often to keep a car that clean - this GTR really is one of the hero's of SAU

Hi Lindsay i went through this with my car last year best thing to do is give these guys a call and tell them you have a non-turbo R34 - they will be able to sort you out i used them and they got my pads right on my R34 25GT 2-door http://www.gslrallysport.com/shop/index.php i believe you are correct in assuming the pads are the same as the R33 GTS another good thread to go off; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/330716-r34-25gt-coupe-brake-pads/

haha that is brilliant - about time somebody ripped off that sticker

have a R34 25GT ('98) and recently bought a '04 Forester XT with the EJ25 turbo i find the RB motor so much more refined in terms of noise/lifters etc can't speak for all nissans but going from a R-chassis to a EJ-chassis (forester shares the basic chassis with the WRX - please correct me if im wrong) just the overall balance driving wise / interior finish / in-cabin noise the Skyline i think has it beat even though its 6 years older the Subaru's strengths is its all-wheel drive (allbeit trumped by ATESSA) - this makes the car faster in all weather conditions as well as sticky to the road during wet conditions - the forester is also very utillitarian in its setup interms bootspace / various accessories / seats fold down etc - also as a stock standard package they are excellent to drive - they are tuned slightly higher than nissans from the factory iirc previous owner also installed a adj blow of valve and a 3' turbo back exhaust with a muffler instead of a cannon - the noise when its on boost mixed with the induction noise is pretty much why i bought the car - it is a tad obnoxious which is why i rate it as previously stated they don't tollerate abuse too well, but so long as your not launching it there are guys getting 3-4-500,000kms out of them over here and in the states from what i've read the EJ20 is a more solid motor than the later EJ25 with the esp with the EJ207 STI having fully forged pistions where as the later model EJ257 STIs have semi-forged ones if it was my money i'd go a GC8 Version 5 2-door STI or a Version 6 4-door STI - or if you're going modern a '06 GDB STI with the 6-speed gearbox are a treat - the key really is to try find one with a fastidious owner not some oink who's abused it IMO they have so much more charisma over an EVO pics because pics;

would be very intersted to see UOA results - i think in nearly 140 pages there hasn't been any - looking forward to seeing your results

edited

agreed - when choosing an oil for your motor you definitely need to be aware of the condition of your motor and the conditions the motor will be subject to i would also accept for fact that there has been more engine failures due to poorly-selected lighter weight oils sheering down as opposed to failures of higher pressure / oil pump failure due to heavier weight oils being used i will add that the only application where i see a 50w performing better than a good quality 40w is during prolonged extreme temperature applications - like track days / racing - on the street i think a well versed 40w or even a 30w will perform more efficiently lubricity wise for most applications / motors - the exception being internally built motors which again have differing tollerances are you able to disclose what you have learned from your trial and errors between different weights - as well how did you find your oil pressure and temperature reading between say a 40w and a 50w? being a 15w cold did it take longer to reach optimum temperature and pressure? MSR - who is a premier Subaru tuner and engine builder recommends a diesel mineral 15w-40 which is quite thick - he recommends that these cars are warmed up prior to being driven and driving should be very sedate until the oil pressure has fully stabilized - usually after 20 mins of driving in saying that i have seen more well performing UOAs on thinner oils than i have seen in heavier weights - across a wide board of weather conditions / cars i would have to disagree to an extent here, is i think although many oil manufacturers are moving to reduce costs in the manufacturing process of their oil - there are some manufacturers who are continually bringing out oils to further exceed and prolong any motors requirements (im talking about the fuel injected age ofcourse - not the carby era) Manufacturers like Motul / Amsoil / Redline / Royal Purple are a few that i have seen further improve oils that would further benefit our engines - with the introduction of many new Esters, on top of Molybdenum and Zinc - i really think oil is as good as it has ever been for fuel injected cars

not bad pricing for the 8100 variants @ JDMYard http://www.jdmyard.c...h&keyword=motul autobarn also sell it as well as Xtreme motorsports (car dealer on Parramatta rd)

very happy to be proven wrong - i'm definately not trying to stir anyting up other than an intelligent debate and questions (which is what's going on i think); my deduction that all Castrol Edge variants use a Group III/IV blend comes from here; re - Royal Purple's SN rated oils, this is a statement from one of their reps; Registered: 08/12/12 Posts: 343 Loc: indiana I emailed RP this: i would like to know if the base stocks used in the API SN oils are hydrocracked group III oils or if they are primarily PAO group IV as many other high end synthetics. Their reply was: "Good morning Donny," "Although Royal Purple oil formulations are considered proprietary, I am authorized to share with you that we use a proprietary combination of premium synthetic Group IV(PAO) and Group V base stocks. The additive packages are also the very best available for each." source: http://www.bobistheo...=2782625&page=1 re - Castrol Edge 10w-60 SN definately not trying to bash Castrol - however being one of the largest manufactures of oil they are seemingly conservative in the information they disclose about their base stocks - Castrol's 10w-60 came in 3 variants; - Edge TMS Motorsport - manufactured in the EU - see bottom left of bottle - Edge Professional (bottle on the right) - manufactured in the EU - see bottom mid - to the right of the BP symbol - Castrol Edge 10w-60 SN - manufactured in Malaysia - see under the black line where it says 'this product is not suitable vehicles with diesel particulate filters' - this is the version available in Australia the most definitive info i could find regarding Castrol's 10w-60 being a full group IV oil was here; There is no such thing as the best oil. The Castrol Edge range is formulated with different base oils to give the best results for the different engines each has been designed for. You cannot judge the performance of an engine oil by its base stock. Edge Sport 25W/50 is a mineral oil based on Grp II base stock, as it has been designed for older & larger 2-valve pushrod engines with roller rockers. Synthetics, like Grp IV base oils, do not build up a good film on roller rockers as well as a mineral oil, where valve train forces are very high. Edge Sport 0W/40 & 10W/60 are synthetic Grp IV products and designed for engines with sliding valve trains or 4 valves or more per cylinder with roller rockers, where valve train loads are lighter than the 2 valve engines and where engine speeds are higher. Edge Sport 5W/30 is a happy medium utilizing Grp III (HVI) base oils, which provide virtually all of the benefits of Grp IV but at a slightly lower cost. Whatever works for a jet engine does NOT necessarily work for a car engine, even if it makes a good storyline. source: http://datnet.org/to...trol-qa-thread/ Going off the CAS identifiers there is evidence from the Material Safety Datasheet (MSDS) to support that the 0w-40 and 10w-60 SN variant of Castrol Edge is a Hydro-treated group III blend formula Castrol Edge 0w-40 A3/B4 http://msdspds.castr...-40%20A3_B4.pdf Dec-1-ene, trimers, hydrogenated REACH #: 01- 2119493949-12 EC: 500-393-3 CAS: 157707-86-3 / 68037-01-4 50 - 100 Not classified. Asp. Tox. 1, H304 [1] definition of 1-decene as per wikipedia; The industrial processes used in the production of 1-decene are oligomerization of ethylene by the Ziegler Process or by the cracking of petrochemical waxes. source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decene Castrol Edge 10w-60 SN MSDS https://www.ils.co.n...SDS/3374732.pdf Base oil - unspecified Varies 50 - 95 Phenol, dodecyl- 121158-58-5 0 - 0.1 Molybdenum polysulphide long chain alkyl dithiocarbamide complex Proprietary 0.1 - 1 Zinc alkyl dithiophosphate 68649-42-3 0.1 - 1 the chemical dodecyl is a hyrdo-carbon composite as per google; https://www.google.c...iw=1760&bih=886 from my reading the edge range with the exception of the now superseded German-made Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (uses group IV only) use both Group III and IV in their formulations - also regarding the 'titanium' tag - most synthetics use Molybdenum which is more expensive to produce and as a result more robust; Castrol took advantage of the "gimmick". Titanium sounds like it's strong. It sounds like it makes your engine tough as steel. Therefore it works for advertising. From what I understand, it is a similar alternative to Molybdenum and cheaper at that; the difference in performance seems to be that Moly after continuous use bonds to the metal parts of your engine and forms a kind of 'invisible shield' to protect your parts. This is particularly with extended use (i.e. if you are using the new SN SOPUS products frequently every at every OCI). Titanium bonds WITH the metals on your engine while it is in use, but does not form any lasting 'shield'. This is a chemistry fantasy description of course, but it seems this is what the additives do, at least from my reading on it. source - http://www.bobistheo...&Number=2724737 fair bit of info (as well as hot-headed opinions) here; http://www.bobistheo...=2813661&page=1 hopefully this provided some insight into the science of the oils we are all exposed to - i'm not trying to put down any oil or anyone i just thought to bring what i think are facts to light and am happy to be rebutted / contested / corrected for anyone else with facts

definately not, the syn-x 6000 is a group III / IV blend making it compariable to your likes of Castrol Edge / Nulon / Mobil1 / Penrite Motul 8100 is a group IV / V blend which is amongst your Redline / Royal Purple / Amsoil / Liqui-Moly Synthoil

on pg 136

a 5W will be thinner on start-up yes - but since temperatures her in Aus do not dip low enough - the motor will very hardly notice the difference in weight IMO due to the temps Motul 8100 X-Cess is a brillant oil - and when you can get it for $70 - it is by far the most well made / top performing oil in that price bracket and beyond Castrol Magnatec and Helix are made only from group III and some cheap oils are still a group II / III blend - they are cheap because they lubricate just enough to keep cars running with a over 12yr old twin-turbo GTR pushing 300hp from the factory - you can imagine the heat generated whist driving - its not really whether you drive like a mongrel - with oils like magnatec - you are risking all types of failure everytime you decide to give it a hit - would stick to Edge if you're Castrol inclided / or Helix Ultra if you are Shell inclined - which can be had for around $50-70 - so really the 8100 X-Cess is a clear choice i reckon definately a good choice for track oil - i would ask them about the viscosity modifiers used in a 10w-60 though - Motuls 300V race oil is a 15W-50 - where the gap between hot and cold is a lot less - meaning its less likely to sheer in high temp applications (meaning break down from a 60w to maybe a 40w which could cause your motor to lean out at that heat) if you're doing constant trackdays and changing out the oil each meet the Castrol is a great budget oil for multiple occasions - but if your going maybe once / twice a year and want to drive ten tenths / the full gusto / complete mongrel i would go with the Group V Motul 300V Competition 15w-50 or Motul Lemans 20w-60 and go gangbusters - note how the gap between weights is much less Motuls new EsterCore range (replaces the previous range) is more geared specifically for limited used on a track- meaning it has been developed to lubricate significantly better during extreme use ie. trackdays but as a consequence its is a lot less ideal for streetable applications and normal drain intervals - i woul be changing it out either every track day if your car is a beast or every 3-4 mths / 5000Kms which ever comes first - the time the oil spends in the sump is the one to watch i definately don't know better than tuners and engine builders - but just based on the science of oil - it never hurts to ask questions and to be intelligent about it - alot of the time people simply use what works without too much curiosity to find the best solution

IMO the only to to better this situation is to change out expensive oils just as often - i reckon if ure changing out good oil more often than the boutique stuff - that is a better way of looking after the motor - good oil meaning the good castrol syntec or edge / nulon fast flow / penrite HPR etc putting junk group II's and III's will just give you grief if you're going to drive enthusiastically good way to tell good oils from your local store is to look for the ACEA A3/A4 certification on the back - this is a stringent standard in europe which details the sheer stability and high-heat strength in 30w and 40w oils i wouldn't be putting in a 30w unless it had the ACEA A3/A4 certification - this will usually be on thicker 30w deeming them suitable for enthusiastic use - most 40w's being thicker will have this protection and IMO is the best weight for most motors - the perfect balance between cold and hot viscosity, not to heavy that the motor struggles to push it through the oil pump and the motor and not too thin that at high temps that it sheers and breaks down that's why in aus people seem to preach thick 50/60/70w oils but don't understand that too thick is just as bad as being too thin good motto to go by is 'thinnest cold weight possible / thickest hot weight as neccessary - for me 0/5/10w-40 is the best viscosity with 10w-40 being the most ideal as the gap between numbers is kept to a minimum meaning that it uses the least amout of viscosity modifiers to maintain sheer stability and high heat applicaitons being in australia without any sub-zero temperatures means you will experience no cold start issues with a 10w where as im america where it dips below -30deg is when you might have a 'winter' oil and a 'summer' oil

absolutely nothing wrong with using the above group III / IV blends - one thing at people on SAU got right is changing out @ 5000km intervals - at this interval w/ enthusiastic street driving using normal from-the-shop oils is going to provide 95% of the protection which should allow any enthusiast to sleep well at night what you're getting when ure buying group IV / V oils is a stronger and more stable film flowing between metal-metal contact as the temperature goes up - oil goes off when you bring it up to very high temps then let it cool down and then bring it up again - eg. street applications even race oils are designed to work only for small periords before they are dumped becase they do not have detergents like street oil to be used over several heat cycles at 5000kms without total prolonged abuse of mongrel driving the differnces would be negligable between a $50 oil and a $100 oil its when ure pushing the car @ full throttle for extended periods - you will be able to differentiate between the off-the-shelf stuff and the boutiques eg track days or if you drive like a lunatic through the hills on a weekly basis

its a bit anal mate but the amout of R34's u see pulling into a woolies servo going for the cheap stuff + the 4c discount - i wouldn't be taking anyones word for gospel - esp with the cars going for the bargains they are now - you would be kidding yourself to assume that only enthusiasts own them - too many dropkicks to take anyones word - becuase everyone says they fill up with 98 - which is bollocks

very few manufacturers are using 100% group IV PAO based oils nowadays was reading internal report leaked about all Mobil1 oils being a mix of group III and group IV - with your likes of Nulon, Penrite, Castrol, Shell priced the same way and employing the same sort of marketing - i would definately put money that none of these brands employ pure Group IV base stocks report from Mobil's internal source; http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1990677 - if anyone wants to nerd out on 20pgs of why Mobil1 has switched from group IV to a group III/IV blend A natural evolution of the formulation The Mobil 1 formulation strategy has always been based on selecting the best components available. We now have the very high quality Group III+ base stock, ‘Visom’ exclusively available to ExxonMobil. As we developed the Mobil 1 ESP technology we found that combining Visom with PAO could deliver a formulation of equivalent performance to an all PAO formulation. Competitive advantage Visom is the only non-PAO stock that can deliver the required performance to formulate a 0W grade oil that meets European OEM engine oil specifications. Visom is not available to our competition. To support Mobil 1 growth Global PAO capacity is limited. As we quickly approach this limit, new base stocks must be explored to ensure we can support the continued growth of the Mobil 1 family of products. To ensure continuity of supply As we saw with the 2005 hurricane, the more flexibility we have in our formulations, the better placed we are to withstand disruption to our supply. We can balance PAO and Visom supply fluctuations to ensure we can always deliver the final product to our customers. To maintain market relevant pricing As PAO supply has tightened globally, raw material costs have increased substantially. In the future, an exclusively PAO formulation may be priced out of the market or result in significant margin erosion. To prepare for next generation basestocks (GTL) Commencing 2010, the next generation of base stocks derived from Natural Gas (Gas To Liquids) will enter the market. These high quality basestocks will arrive in substantial quantities and will probably be used in the majority of competitive premium formulations. Visom is viewed as a precursor of GTL, and hence it’s use now in our flagship formulations eases our transition to a GTL world, and helps us understand how to maintain flagship performance using these high quality non-PAO basestocks. to my knowledge the only group IV manufacturers are; - Motul 8100 - Group IV / V blend - Redline - Group IV / V blend - Royal Purple - Group IV only - Amsoil Signature Series - Group IV / V blend ( i think happy to be corrected by i'm pretty sure this is not 100% double-ester based oil - Mobil Delvac 1 - AFAIK this is still a Group IV PAO based oil all of these oils are close to $100 / 5L with the exception of Motul 8100 X-Cess and X-Max which are around $70-80 anyone who would rate GW Syn-X 6000 the same as the above oils which has been confirmed by GW themselves to be a Group III/IV blend is simply misinformed - is it a great oil for most applications? absolutely - but they are chalk and cheese in terms of the base materials, money and R&D put into the group IV and V oils

in my opinion, for the most part oil flushes are ok - however there has been cases where they have caused engine damage via the dislodging of carbon on the pistons and seals causing leaks/smoke and the kind - i believe there is no real need for engine flushes - it can be detrimental on older cars like ours if you are wanting to get the oil thin before a drain - take it for a short drive, bring up the oil to temperature - then with gloves carefully unbolt the sump plug and it will drain much easier hot. this is the most efficient way to drain oil also alot of talk with using higher weight oils such as 10w-50/60/70 - if your motor is built and your tuner recommends it - fine carry on - however for the rest of us with standard motors/bolt ons - bear in mind that the larger the gap in hot and cold numbers, the more viscosity modifiers need to be used - this makes the oil less sheer stable (more prone to higher temps and less stable strength wise)

came across this yesterday, thought this might be useful for some; 20pk 40x40cm microfiber towels - $9.95 http://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/86308 direct link - http://catalogues.re...ource=catalogue the main difference between the cheaper towels and the more expensive ones like aquatouch (made in korea rather than china) is the cloths are alot thicker - i'd say 2-3 times as thick as the ones you see for sale for around $1/cloth the pile (little strand thingos on the cloth) is longer and thicker meaning there is lesser chance of any contaminates that are picked up during a wipe-off/on stage - they are also more absorbent than the cheaper options meaning you won't have to go through so many towels for those looking at the premium options Waxit.com.au (SAU sponsor) do a great pack for around $150 - this includes everything you'd need including wash mitts, applicator pads, drying towels, and a large assortment of cloths for buffing; Aquatouch Ultimate Microfiber Kit - $150 http://www.waxit.com...uemart&Itemid=1 2x Aquatouch Ultra Microfibre Wash Mitt 2x Aquatouch Microfibre Glass Cloth 1x Aquatouch Ultra Microfibre Drying Towel 60x90cm 1x Aquatouch Ultra Microfibre Chamois 60x80cm 1x Aquatouch Microfibre Waffle Weave Drying Towel Blue 60x90cm 3x Aquatouch Ultra Microfibre Ultra Soft Grey Cloth 40x40cm 2x Aquatouch Ultra Microfibre Super Soft Purple Cloth 40x40cm 1x Aquatouch Ultra Microfibre Suede Cloth 40x40cm 2x Aquatouch Microfibre Edgeless Polish Cloth Blue 40x40cm 3x Aquatouch Microfibre Edgeless Wax Cloth Green 40x40cm 1x Aquatouch Microfibre General Purpose Blue Cloth 40x40cm 1x Aquatouch Microfibre General Purpose Yellow Cloth 40x40cm 1x Aquatouch Microfibre General Purpose Green Cloth 40x40cm 1x Aquatouch Microfibre General Purpose Red Cloth 40x40cm 2x Aquatouch Microfibre Block Applicators Blue 2x Aquatouch Microfibre Applicator Blue 2x Aquatouch Microfibre Suede Applicator Blue 1x Aquatouch Microfibre Hand Pocket Applicator Blue 1x Aquatouch Microfibre Hand Pocket Applicator Yellow 1x Microwash 473m

looks brand new mate, well done, were you able to achieve these results without wet sanding? Mind letting us know on how you did it?

the rear fog light/reverse light setup come standard on GTRs, however on 25GTs and GT-ts, it was fitted on R34s as an option sold in the north of Japan - where there is alot of snow / adverse conditons - which means salt is used on the roads check the undercarriage - exhaust, spare-wheel well, suspension arms and any nooks and crannys where salt can fling up and manifest into rust - the brake caliper in the picture looks shot/faded to kingdom come - make sure you have a thourough look under the car looking for rust ask about who installed the power mods as well as what brand and if they were bought new (intercooler, air intake, exhaust) - as you can see all the underbody splash guards have been gutted to accomodate these - a good installer will try and retain as much as this as possible to maintain a cleaner look - if they have been installed carelessly your car will not forgive you constantly throwing ECU errors, unforseen air/fluid leaks etc - this can even happen when things have been done correctly sure the car has new tyres but are they cheap china-made one there to simply keep your rims from touching the floor? - this indicates the financial priority the seller places on the car as a whole - approach with caution - theres a difference between good value rubber and just plain nasty accident inducing rubber if you are able to take it to a mechanic or can bring one with you; - have the compression of each cylinder tested - scan the ECU to see if there are any error codes that have been previously thrown up - being a manual - ask if u can start and test drive the car cold so i can see how the car (engine & gearbox) reacts after its been asleep - do a REVs check to see if it has been written off or more improtantly stolen - take the steering wheel cover off and inspect the condition - check the blue VIN plate is a. there b. engine no. reads the same as the number engraved inside the engine bay c. colour code corresponds to the car in question - in this case it should say GV1 which is Black Pearl - no word of a lie i went to see a Bayside Blue R34 at a very reputable parts trader in Kirrawee, and the VIN plate indicated the car was Black - guy got very defensive when i asked about the auction sheet and pressed a little bit - i simply walked away having wasting only my time 2 things thing people never check on private cars - engine oil level / condition - check if low / very black - take a torch and shine into the engine where you take the oil cap off - ask what oil he/she uses - the nerdier they are the better - transmission oil level / condition - ask when this was last done and with what oil - ask if 98 octane has been used and if yes ask if the owner has any spare receipts to prove it no offence to the sydney's western suburbs (i live in it myself) but the more affordable these cars become (used to be 25K+ only 5-ish years ago), the more dropkicks / hectics are getting into them and raping them / treating it as an accessory rather than a living thing - im talking not warming it up, thrasing it from the turn-key, doughies, skids (guilford is right next to whetherill park's industrial area), not warming it down after hard driving, cheaping out on servicing / extended fluid change intervals (ask how often it is serviced and if there are receipts/proof) between services etc - pretty much buying a skyline but treating it like a charade/beater nobody who buys a jap import drives it like a granny - it's just a matter of how they treat it when / before / after being on-boost / driving enthusiastically that makes the difference not saying this doesn't happen outside the western suburbs but you would be ignorant to assume all areas are equal if you're part of this forum my blind assumption is you're one to look after your car, just try and find a car from an owner who cares about cars as much as you do, not some oink who is trying to offload his car because he has finished having his way with it if any of these inspection tests / questions extract a bad attitude or discomfort from the seller or give you any impression he/she is a deadbeat or hectic - walk away because its always better to look a bit like a goose than to pick up someones third world raped sloppy seconds