JGTC

yeh was thinking of mentioning that, despite running pretty rich (full turbo-back exhaust) im getting around 10-12L/100km - in top gear maths i get about about 450-500km of city driving to a 60L tank which is slightly better than my R34 non-turbo which uses about 12-14L/100km

bought with about 126,000 kms, im putting about 3-400kms a week mon-fri '04 SG9 Forester XT cockpit; new mudflaps Boot space have new '07 WRX wheels in the garage (19's a bit too hectic for me) and rear spoiler on the way so hopefully turns out something like this; bit of a soccer mums cart, drives pretty well with plenty of low down torque for city driving - only reservation is that due to the short gearing it sits at 3500rpm in 5th at 110kph which is a bit noisy for long distance/highway driving

fantastic car mate, that is definately the full banana from just the pic seems like the HKS exhaust is stainless steel with a titanium tip - where as the Tomei unit is a full titanium unit with a cannon which would be why you would be getting the full theater of noise thanks for sharing such a beast - keen on more pics (interior!)

Liqui Moly - they make good products - made in Germany IIRC, more popular with the euro crowd and are thus carry all the euro certifications (VW, BMW, Merc etc) which are among the highest in the world - would place them amongst the likes of Mobil 1, Penrite SIN series, Castrol Edge etc Motul 300V - has been confirmed by Motul reps as totally suitable for street/road use and change intervals - i've seen UOA reports of it being used for 12,000kms / 12mths including track time without any issues - has been recommended that u stick to under 10,000kms and 9 mths of use to get the most out of it - the short life of this oil is made up with its ability to lubricate very well under extreme temperatures/wear

group III's are allowed to be marketed as '100% synthetic' in Aus which is why everything you see in stores is labeled as synthetic obviously if your car is not giving you grief with Gulf Western (normally doesn't until its too late), but to say its comparable to other established group IV oils or even group III/IV blends is a bit silly without any proof of a UOA as different countries invest heavily in formulating additive packs for their oils

thought to post this as i inquired with Gulf Western regarding their Syn-X range as to what base stocks they use, this was the response i got; Daniel, We use Group III in Syn X 3000 and Group III / Group IV in Syn X 6000. If manufacturing licensed blends in modern API grades, the engine tests are only performed in these base stocks. Regards Ben Vicary Gulf Western Oil to be claiming Syn-X 3000 is a Motul 8100 equivalent without any justification other than that it feels the same doesn't really tell the whole story about the performance differences of these 2 oils I've also read reports the the Mobil 1 range is made from a different formulation from a 100% Group IV PAO base, to a Group III / IV blend - which is same as the Syn-X 6000 variant of Gulf Western although in this day and age, oil's additive packs are just as important as the base-stocks, at the end of the day group IV PAO base stocks are smoother and more expensive to make, Group V being even more so - an oils manufacturer's certifications should also be taken into account so most things you can grab from a brick-and-mortar shop are made from either straight Group III or blends of Group III / Group IV base stocks (Nulon, Castrol, Mobil, Penrite etc) the only real Group IV formulated oils i can think of are Motul's 8100 range, Royal Purple and Redline and Motul 300V and Amsoil being the only real Group V oils hope this clears up any confusion, not trying to start any wars, just thought to share some info i've come across in my reading

What type of oil should I use? - short answer: if you drive like a granny - moderately priced ($40-60) off-the-shelf Castrol/Nulon/Mobil/Motul 5w-30/40, 10w-30/40 if you drive like a complete mongrel / enthusiastically - any decent higher tier oils ($60-100) like Castrol Edge, Mobil 1. Amsoil Signature range, Redline, Motul 8100/300V oil thread - http://www.skylinesa...__fromsearch__1 With the coolant should I keep using the same as the previous owner or drain the radiator and start again? flush out the old coolant and refill with Nissan's OEM pre-mixed coolant - around $50-60 - failing that any green coolant will do Nulon Long Life etc Servicing is done every 5000ks? And are there any major servicing or anything big I need to worry about doing if the previous owner hasn't? make sure big things like timing belt, ancillary drive belts water pump, oil pump have been changed at least once if the car has more than 100,000kms other normal service to look out for would be engine oil / oil fiter every 5000kms gearbox oil - every 30-50,000kms depending on how hard you are on it coolant flush - 2 years or 50,000kms fuel filter -every major service - 50,000 or 100,000 kms brake fluid - 30-50,000kms depending on how hard you are on them (hard braking) power steering fluid - every 100,000kms depending on the mileage, and what you know about the car's history, being an older car i'd change the; - engine oil / oil filter - coolant - gearbox / rear diff oil - brake fluid - fuel filter - air filter - power steering fluid These are just a couple going through my mind at the moment, sorry bout the newbie questions but I'd rather be safe then sorry. i've mentioned some places to buy/what to buy the above products if needed here; http://www.skylinesa...__fromsearch__1 hope this helps, welcome to the forum - post some pics of your car if you get a chance mate, about as useless as tits on a bull, our search system for most accounts is crap to use and every one who joins might not be a a complete geek, and as we are always getting new members, they will benefit from these type of posts popping up

for the spoiler, both the 3-piece and standard spoiler were available with the the series 1 cars, where as the series 2 was only offered with the standard spoiler if your interior looks like the last photo, its a series 1 model with the altia aero kit with the standard spoiler

Very useful, i remember having to sign something like this when test driving a car from a dealer; also Terry, are you able to disclose what wheels you were sussing out?

not too sure of an answer, - but how much/levels is it dropping per kms you're doing? - how often/how many kms are you having to top it up, - and how much are you topping it up each time? - does your car have any aftermarket modifications - are any of them recent? - has it always been doing this?

they arn't rare moreso less common than the factory standard front bar - as customers would have to pay a premium for anything other than the standard bumpers; the Altia aero option was available to the later series 2 models, the only way to tell would be; - no 3-piece wing, series 2 models were offered with the standard wing - series 2 interior; - 2 tone steering wheel with emblem in the center / gear shifter, silver faced dials, aluminium drilled pedals - series 1 interior; - black only steering wheel with 'Nissan' embossed and black gear shifter, dark faced dials, black rubber pedals

thats the 'Altia Aero' factory optioned body kit available from from Nissan when the car was sold new for series 1 models it also included this wing; the Nismo kit was also availble as an option - front bar, side skirts, rear bar and wing (all of which provide functional aero); as well as the factory option lip for the series 1 front bar; and lastly the series 2 front bar - the below pic has a aftermarket/DIY lip by the looks of it;

this plan by far is the best way to enjoy what would still be considered a ridiculous amount of coin and still keep your head intact being responsible for that much money would change you as a person forever

looks great mate thanks for sharing - set up in the boot looks fantastic

IRL, 100mil would for the most part be a curse on most people's mentality/psychology - having all that money at once would create (for most people) a false sense of financial security - would be crazy would i say no? absolutely not, but you would want to take a snap shot of your current life because it just would not be the same after 100mil - for better or worse would also be super selective of who i told about the money, as well as how much money i won (bar my mum i''d be hard pressed to tell anyone else i won the full 100mil) would do stupid shit like buy a Z-tune/E-type Jag/Shelby GT500KR and daily drive them and get a warehouse/house like Jay Leno and fill it up

Cheers James will look these up when i have a chance

cheers for that, will def keep this on the cards

don't undersell yourself mate, from the pictures it looks like your 25GT is actually a GTV model with; - GT-t 4-pot brakes (says 'Nissan' on them) front and 2-pot rears - much larger discs than a standard 25GT - this also makes it easier to buy replacement pads and discs as they are more available - Viscous Limited Slip Diff (LSD) whe re the standard 25GT has a more simplistic open diff - GTV's share GT-t's suspension s et up with eyelet struts at the front and fork struts at the rear - aftermarket replacements are also much easier to find as normal 25GT's share the same set up with R33 GTST's being auto would also make it reasonable to assume it's had more of a crusier/less thrashed life both in Japan and by you in Aus, as hectic as the semi-auto manual mode is, reality is, 99% of driving is in D, theres just alot less space for abuse/harsh driving without a clutch and a 5-speed shifter and to top it all off, its in the R34's premier colour, Bayside Blue, which as the years tick by, makes this one of the more collectable models best thing to do mate would be to put it up on carsales, and if you are still having trouble, try selling it via consignment at a reputable import dealer (they sell it on your behalf and take a cut, similar to real estate) to help maximise your opportunites and audience to sell to hope this helps mate, would not be letting it go for the money you're asking as it seems like a fantastic car with minimal but Japanese-made mods (no taiwan/china parts) which can only be good things for any prospective owner any issues mate feel free to PM me

cheers bird, totally agree with this, it is exactly the case in sydney also i don't really venture into the city for outings/chillouts/meals. are there things in the city to experience? for sure, but the suburbs are often less assuming but offer just as much enjoyment without having to queue up for the place

always good to hear, thanks for sharing

not huge on fancy hi-end dining, although happy to try things that are 'to die for' as such. little family-owned joints punching out small things right is where i think it's at in general my mate is huge on the beans so coffee-wise we are happy to be proven right that you guys have the winning formula hope i don't come accoss as fussy or snobbish or anything - just trying to keep the convo alive to get as many ideas as possible from different people

pretty sure for most applications the words 'launch' and 'overkill' cant be used in the same sentence, unless you are daily-ing it through mumbai's peak hour, i would go the most expensive/military duty you/your left leg can afford

thank you all for the recommendations of tramps/tricks/scallywags/dylaan's mum/ladies of the night - will be taken into serious consideration coffee wise is there anything not to miss while in the CBD & St Kilda? gotta be some addicts who can share their sources will be looking up a few of these places (prob not spearmint rhino tho lol) when i get home tonight ultra helpful mate, cheers

this has been posted up a few times, not the table referes to GT-t models rather than 25GT/GTV na variants definitive features of series 2's are the - white faced guages with orange back light (series 1 has dark grey faces with white illumination) - 2 tone steering wheel and aluminium drilled pedals (shared with GTRs) - slightly different material used for f & r seats (slightly softer and cloth-ier) - front bar features that are shared with series 1 and 2 - silver engine cover (early series 1's had silver with red lettering) I have a series 1 25GT 4sp auto with the altia optioned kit myself, but if i had my time/budget again i'd try aim for a later model series 2 with the factory option kit and def go the 5sp manual for the GT-t's as the auto turbos seem to sell quite poorly if you're taking resale value into consideration

haha thanks for the response fellas, gentlemens club prob not on the menu atm but the bump is appreciated heard good things about st kilda, will prob be spending half a day there even just people fav local eateries would be good, doesn't have to be fancy cheers again